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Old 06-25-2016, 06:16 PM   #1
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Very important question for me

Hi everybody
As I explain in my presentation , I search a boat has to buy in the USA , I must bring it back by the sea until New Caledonia.I draw and calculate my return journey and I have a crossing that I cannot avoid 2500 miles.The boat is equipped with enough tanks of fuel to be quiet but the question that I ask myself , is what the engines are able to operate throughout the crossing without stop and if I well Account , the crossing will Duration 13/15 days.....this are the Cummins engine 12V of 1973 completely revised
thank you for your opinion
Stéphane
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:30 PM   #2
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You will need to stop them periodically to check oil and maybe do an oil change. If it were me, I would plan on at least a 500 mile coastal cruise in the USA before heading across an ocean with an unknown boat. Too many unknowns to take that kind of risk. Hope the fuel tanks are clean.

I wouldn't cross an ocean with 43 year old engines to start with.

Ted
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:36 PM   #3
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Some larger engines the oil can be checked with engine running. Try it and see if you can get a reading on the stick. And yes, you want to give the boat a thorough shake down cruise and complete maintenance prior to attempting a crossing.

Cummins 1710??
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:37 PM   #4
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If you're going to do that, I'd take about a month to fully go through everything...
And I mean everything...
And put some miles on it before trying to make a crossing. As stated, you'll have to shut down and check your fluids, that's pretty standard.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:54 PM   #5
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An industrial/commercial engine should be able to run modest load for 14day without needing an oil change. That's like 330hrs, some are spec'd at 250, some at 500hr. Depends on what sump is used. You will need to check the oil and add some though.
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:19 PM   #6
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Id start with a oil analysis and engine survey and after the results consider your options . Did someone say a 43 year old engine and 2500miles in one hit
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:29 PM   #7
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Man to talk to is Wxx3(Richard). Send him a PM, or maybe he`ll chime in, he crossed the Atlantic,solo. As I understand it, never turn the engine off if possible, and twin switchable fuel filters would be a must.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:52 PM   #8
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You say "engines". Are there 2 engines, on 1?

As Ski said, I wouldn't worry at all about changing the oil. But if you have 2 engines you can stop one at a time to check on things.

Or install Murphy gauges and then you could check fluid levels while they are running. In fact Murphy has a system that will add oil as needed if you want.

Fluid analysis is pretty much a waste of time and money without a history to go with it IMO.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:21 PM   #9
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You say "engines". Are there 2 engines, on 1?

As Ski said, I wouldn't worry at all about changing the oil. But if you have 2 engines you can stop one at a time to check on things.

Or install Murphy gauges and then you could check fluid levels while they are running. In fact Murphy has a system that will add oil as needed if you want.

Fluid analysis is pretty much a waste of time and money without a history to go with it IMO.

If a oil analysis on the engine and gearbox shows up metal and bearing fragments where is the waste of time ???. Its a sure way to see if the motor is rooted I wouldn't go around and up the river 10 k if it had a bad feed back from the analysis let alone 2500 mile trip .
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:53 PM   #10
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If a oil analysis on the engine and gearbox shows up metal and bearing fragments where is the waste of time ???. Its a sure way to see if the motor is rooted I wouldn't go around and up the river 10 k if it had a bad feed back from the analysis let alone 2500 mile trip .
I'm with Cptn Bill on this one but what the hell, for $20 per engine go for it.
Oil Analysis, Worth it ?
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:08 PM   #11
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Ok so an oil report shows positive in just some of theses results would you take the risk ?
Iron (Fe)Indicates wear originating from rings, shafts, gears, valve train, cylinder walls, and pistons in some engines. Nickel (Ni) Secondary indicator of wear from certain types of bearings, shafts, valves and valve guides. Molybdenum (Mo) Indicates ring wear. Used as an additive in some oils. Chromium (Cu) Primary sources are chromed parts such as rings, liners, etc., and some coolant additives. Aluminum (Al) Indicates wear of pistons, rod bearings and certain types of bushings. Tin (Sn) Indicates wear from bearings when babbitt overlays are used. Also and indicator of piston wear in some engines. Silver (Ag) Wear of bearings which contain silver. In some instances, a secondary indicator of oil cooler problems, especially when coolant in sample is detected. Copper (Cu) Wear from bearings, rocker arm bushings, wrist pin bushings, thrust washers, other bronze and brass parts. In some transmissions, wear from discs and clutch plates. Oil additive or anti-seize compound. Sodium (Na) Coolant additive; used as an additive in some oils. Silicon (Si) A measure of airborne dust and dirt contamination, usually indicating improper air cleaner service. Excessive dirt and abrasives can greatly accelerate component wear. Boron (B) Coolant additive; used as an additive in some oils. Phosphorous (P) Antitrust agents, spark-plug and combustion chamber deposit reducers. Zinc (Zn) Antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear additives, detergents, extreme pressure additives. Calcium (Ca) Detergents, dispersants, acid neutralizers. Barbium (BA) Corrosion inhibitors, detergents, rust inhibitors. Magnesium (Mg) Dispersant - detergent additive, alloying metal.
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:25 PM   #12
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Ok so an oil report shows positive in just some of theses results would you take the risk ?
Iron (Fe)Indicates wear originating from rings, shafts, gears, valve train, cylinder walls, and pistons in some engines. Nickel (Ni) Secondary indicator of wear from certain types of bearings, shafts, valves and valve guides. Molybdenum (Mo) Indicates ring wear. Used as an additive in some oils. Chromium (Cu) Primary sources are chromed parts such as rings, liners, etc., and some coolant additives. Aluminum (Al) Indicates wear of pistons, rod bearings and certain types of bushings. Tin (Sn) Indicates wear from bearings when babbitt overlays are used. Also and indicator of piston wear in some engines. Silver (Ag) Wear of bearings which contain silver. In some instances, a secondary indicator of oil cooler problems, especially when coolant in sample is detected. Copper (Cu) Wear from bearings, rocker arm bushings, wrist pin bushings, thrust washers, other bronze and brass parts. In some transmissions, wear from discs and clutch plates. Oil additive or anti-seize compound. Sodium (Na) Coolant additive; used as an additive in some oils. Silicon (Si) A measure of airborne dust and dirt contamination, usually indicating improper air cleaner service. Excessive dirt and abrasives can greatly accelerate component wear. Boron (B) Coolant additive; used as an additive in some oils. Phosphorous (P) Antitrust agents, spark-plug and combustion chamber deposit reducers. Zinc (Zn) Antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear additives, detergents, extreme pressure additives. Calcium (Ca) Detergents, dispersants, acid neutralizers. Barbium (BA) Corrosion inhibitors, detergents, rust inhibitors. Magnesium (Mg) Dispersant - detergent additive, alloying metal.
Depends .... What type/brand of oil, how many hours on it, how long has it been in the engine, how long since engine last run. what engines ?
Without all that information the numbers don't mean much. Yes it will turn up catastrophic issues on a one off test but nothing an experienced diesel guy wouldn't see pretty quickly. Not saying don't do it, just saying blind faith without a history is questionable.
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:41 PM   #13
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Thank you for your repply
Be shure , I never take the sea without make all controle of the boat and his engines I'm french but not idiot
When I decided to going in US to see the boat , all will be checked , engine , hull etc.....cleaning all the tanks
If I buy this one , I will stay all the time is needed to be shure off my boat can cruising without trouble.
It is expected to buy many parts like oil , filters , préfilters , injector , water separator , tools etc.....
my travel is around 6000 miles , stop for maintenance are expected , my question was only for the most longer parts ....2025 miles exactly..
The maps are ready "pilots charts" and other , the road to travel with estimation of consumption also
thank for all
Stéphane
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:36 AM   #14
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So 1 or 2 engines?
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:38 AM   #15
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sorry 2 engines
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:40 AM   #16
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If a oil analysis on the engine and gearbox shows up metal and bearing fragments where is the waste of time ???. Its a sure way to see if the motor is rooted I wouldn't go around and up the river 10 k if it had a bad feed back from the analysis let alone 2500 mile trip .
What if the previous owner changed the oil 10 hours before the analysis?

What if the previous owner had never changed the oil?

What if the previous owner had used random brands and weights of oils? Or the wrong spec oil for the application?

There are reasons when sending in oil to be sampled the lab asks for the engine hours on it, the brand, the weight, how many quarts of new oil have been added during the time since the last change, etc.
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:56 AM   #17
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sorry 2 engines
In that case as I mentioned you can shut one down at a time to check fluid levels from time to time.

And if you keep track of the hours between checks and the amount of fluid you add at each check stays constant after a few checks, you could stop the checks and just add the same amount of fluid at the proper number of hours without stopping the engine.

Just be sure to clean out under the engines real well and put down clean oil sorb pads so you can see any leaks that may develop. As well as having nice bright lights in the engine space to make your visual checks as easy as possible.

But I wouldn't worry about changing fluids underway.
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Old 06-26-2016, 01:39 AM   #18
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In that case as I mentioned you can shut one down at a time to check fluid levels from time to time.

And if you keep track of the hours between checks and the amount of fluid you add at each check stays constant after a few checks, you could stop the checks and just add the same amount of fluid at the proper number of hours without stopping the engine.

Just be sure to clean out under the engines real well and put down clean oil sorb pads so you can see any leaks that may develop. As well as having nice bright lights in the engine space to make your visual checks as easy as possible.

But I wouldn't worry about changing fluids underway.

I think to changing the oil for analysis , travel for 50 miles and analysing again to be sure
During the travel of 2065 miles i think checked the level and add if is necessary and change the oil and the filters at the end of the long travel to be quiet for the rest of the trip.
I have calculate ,2065 miles at 8 knots , it's 262 hours for the best time , certainly more....I am still has the research of conversion tables
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:22 AM   #19
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Sounds like you have it all well-planned Bugster. Capt. Bill knows his stuff, and he's ok with your plan. You don't want to be too put off by some of the nervous Nellies on here, just sayin'...
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:57 AM   #20
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Sounds like you have it all well-planned Bugster. Capt. Bill knows his stuff, and he's ok with your plan. You don't want to be too put off by some of the nervous Nellies on here, just sayin'...
Yes i want enjoy with my boat and not be afraid....and this return trip will be beautifull
Hawai , kiribati , samoa , fidji , new caledonia.......
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