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Old 07-24-2014, 12:17 PM   #1
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Velvet drive questions

What is the best way to check fluid level ? Does the tranny need to be warmed up ?
Best fluid to use ?
How often should be fluid be changed ?
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:53 PM   #2
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Attached is the Borg Warner service manual. It will answer all your questions regarding the Velvet Drive service. Be sure and find the BW tag on your transmission so you are looking at the correct information. Checks and maintenance is on page 24 of the manual.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:15 PM   #3
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Read the manual. These are obsolete and poorly built in many ways. Proper maintenance is the key.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Attached is the Borg Warner service manual.
Cheers
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Great stuff, Larry. Thanks!!
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:24 AM   #5
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Thanks Larry That covers it all .
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:41 AM   #6
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Thanks! A good addition to the library.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:01 PM   #7
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This is timely information. Sunday I managed to somehow catch a submerged, unmarked crab pot and suck it up into my propeller. The engine died, I restarted a couple of times in an attempt to move the craft enough to tie up to a break water (it was the wall in the fairway to the Ballard locks) so as not to get blown into shore. Managed to just grab the end of it. The boat gets lifted tomorrow to check the running gear, hope it's not too bad, and the transmission is not busted.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:28 PM   #8
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One transmission item seldom covered in manuals is this.

If your oil cooler is above the transmission (as most are) and if it was installed with the oil lines pointing down (to save hose & fittings maybe) then it will drain into the transmission when the engine is stopped and give a false high reading.

The cure: turn it over so the lines point up or figure it's volume and add this to the "full" transmission remarking the dipstick for future.

Daddyo... "poorly built" I think not.
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:31 PM   #9
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Dave:

I had a similar event last year. Mine was just the line, not the pot too. The velvet drive survived and was fine once the line was removed. I was only going about 2-3 knots when it happened though. Hope the shaft and propeller are good. Lotsa pots out there and tasty dungeness crab too
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:57 PM   #10
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Same thing here with the crab pot on our last boat. The only damage was to the cutless bearing. The rubber bearing broke free from the brass sleeve as the line wrapped around the shaft/strut from the side torque. Replaced the bearing and that was it.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:10 PM   #11
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I caught a crab pot which caught 3 others which really slowed me down. luckily no problems.

I did catch my dink painter. It wrapped so tight, the line turned in to a solid cylinder of hard plastic that surrounded the shaft. I had to cut it off with a hacksaw. I believe this is what caused the nut holding the coupling to the transmission to loosen and allow the trans fluid to leak out. I replaced the oil seal while I was at it and got a new nut since it can only be used once. Torqued it as close to 200 lbs as I could.

Since my cooler is above the trans, I check the level as soon as I shut down.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:17 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input folks, I'm hoping for the best, will report back when I find out the extent of the issue. I did try and dive on it, but low visibility and getting cut on the metal brought me back up quickly.

I'm thinking of adding a cutter to the shaft while it's out.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Since my cooler is above the trans, I check the level as soon as I shut down.
If your oil inlets facing down, still no good. The hot fluid drains out instantly.
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:35 PM   #14
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I am so happy they don't have crab pots on the Great Lakes!!!
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:25 AM   #15
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Our transmission cooler is mounted with the in/outlet horizontal. We try to change the fluid every 200 hours. We remove 2.5 quarts and replace with the same. After 8K hours, here's what the narrative section of last years oil analysis. We changed the oil sooner than normal at a convenient location.

This sample looks great next to universal averages. They show typical wear for a Velvet Drive transmission after about 130 hours on the oil. Your sample was in use longer and wear metals were very low by comparison. Still, they were in good balance by comparison, so we don't see any obvious problems at work here. The viscosity was on target for Chevron MD-3 ATF and no moisture or insolubles were found. This oil is still serviceable, so we suggest keeping this fill in place. You could easily run up to 200 hours on this oil.
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Old 07-29-2014, 04:44 PM   #16
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Ouch, can anyone recommend a good prop guy in Seattle?



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Old 07-29-2014, 05:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Ouch, can anyone recommend a good prop guy in Seattle?
Oh Sh.t! Try Northlake Propeller. They help us out on a quick turn around or ask the yard who they use.

Northlake Propeller Seattle Propeller Repair and Sales
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:21 PM   #18
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Ouch, can anyone recommend a good prop guy in Seattle?




Shoulda used PropSpeed!
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:30 AM   #19
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So bolt cutters and a good sharp knife got the crab pot and line off the prop, but it's chewed up enough that I want the 21lh19 prop to go to a shop and get fixed. Problem is, there is not enough clearance to slide it off without removing the skeg and dropping the rudder. The shaft was replaced in 2011 and perhaps the yard that did the job used a shaft about 3/4" too long.

The shaft looks fine and the prop will turn fine by hand with the Velvet drive in neutral.

Problem with that is, we got the bolts securing the skeg out, but can't seem to remove it due to what looks like maybe 5200? Hopefully the crew at the boatyard can help me out tomorrow.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:05 AM   #20
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I hate to say it but now is the time to pull the shaft and cut it to the right length. It's nuts that you now can't pull the prop with the boat in the water because the shaft is slightly to long.

What about if you take the steering quadrant off the rudder post so you can turn the rudder a full 90 deg. to the prop. Will that get you enough room to pull the prop?
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