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Old 02-22-2014, 02:58 PM   #1
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Velvet drive

I have velvet drives. Today while participating in a Mardi Gras boat parade, I lost stbd side transmission. It was hard to shift the binnacle and both helm stations wouldn't go in reverse. Transmission allowed forward gear only. Was able to return to port and upon inspection, fluid is darker than normal and foul smelling.

What next?

Thanks

Blue Heron
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:37 PM   #2
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Blue

Sounds like it might need a rebuild. If you are not sure maybe have a qualified person look at it. When my gear went I took it out and brought it to the local transmission shop. The local Marine guys started at $1,300. if I brought it in. The trans. shop did a complete job for $750. ammended to $700. when I said I would be right back with cash.

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Old 02-22-2014, 07:39 PM   #3
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Date,

Any special things to look for when pulling out? I have a transmission guy... His recommendation was pull it.
What do I need to look out for before unbolting?
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:11 PM   #4
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Blue,

I'm sure most is evident but

1. Disconnect shift linkage
2. Disconnect wire for non start when in gear.
3. Unbolt trans. cooler.
4. Unbolt trans./shaft flange.
5. My rear engine mounts were on the transmission so I jacked up the engine a bit and blocked it. Unbolt the engine mounts from the stringers first.
6. Block the trans. and unbolt.

At this point I had two guys to help me get it out of the boat. We just lifted it out. If you can use a crane it iseasier but with three guys no problem. Put down two or more layers of cardboard on your path out so you can put it down anywhere to rest or reposition. If you can put it on a dolly so much the better.

Good luck,

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Old 02-22-2014, 10:08 PM   #5
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Before yanking it out, disconnect linkage at the transmission and manually check if it is engaging ahead and astern. They are an hydraulic box so shift should not have been hard. May be a semi seized cable has been responsible for incomplete engagement and slight slippage of clutches burning the oil. Maybe salvageable with a freed up cable, oil change and filter clean.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:28 AM   #6
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Night cap,

We thought it was a linkage issue also but after engine was shut down and the transnission cooled down we were able to shift it into reverse and got full range of motion again.

It did engage fully in Fwd and would shift back to nuetral. But no reverse. I'll look at the cable first before pulling

This was the first time I have had any issues in the 2 years I have owned it. And I routinly use reverse for backing into slip and maneuver.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:07 AM   #7
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One thing you can do for easy removable and installation is to get some long bolts same size as mounting bolts, grind head off. so they end up as studs, then replace the normal bolts with them. this allows you to move the trans aft till the teeth are clear of the drive plate, and then remove the tran. they are also very handy for instalation. This is a chance to inspect and replace drive plate. Hope this is clear as I am not to good at explaining things.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:14 AM   #8
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if you do pull the reduction unit, consider replacing the damper plate with the newer polyurethane type... smoother shifting, quieter, longer lasting.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:39 PM   #9
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Night cap,

We thought it was a linkage issue also but after engine was shut down and the transnission cooled down we were able to shift it into reverse and got full range of motion again.

It did engage fully in Fwd and would shift back to nuetral. But no reverse. I'll look at the cable first before pulling

This was the first time I have had any issues in the 2 years I have owned it. And I routinly use reverse for backing into slip and maneuver.
Was this with the engine running or stopped? If the movement is hard with the transmission hot but OK with it cold it could also be a spool valve issue. Always look for the simple, cheap options first.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:22 PM   #10
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More info after sitting in the engine room scratching my head.

I can see the ball detent at each setting if F N and R.

before starting it today I saw that:

Binnacle (morse) would shift but it felt like it was being forced and like something was grinding or interfering. In F N R. Engine not running and cold

Engine not running I could shift at the transmission into F N R with Morse disconnected.

Started engine.

Shaft Wont spin when starting up and in nuetral. But can shift it to fwd at the transmission with the morse disconnected. Could NOT shift to reverse.

When shifting back to neutral shaft continues to spin.

Had to shut engine down to get shaft to stop pinning FWD. no reverse.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:27 PM   #11
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Fiji, I'm trying to understand what you are describing. I have 6 bolts on the reduction side and intend to leave the flywheel housing on while only taking the Reduction side out.
Can you describe it a little more?
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:05 PM   #12
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Blue,

I think he means put the long stud in as you remove each bolt so you can slide the gear out on the studs. Good idea!

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Old 02-24-2014, 07:18 PM   #13
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As I pull the shaft out and back the nuts off the Reduction gear it looks like I can't add a bolt. They are in the engine side and the nuts are on the reduction side
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:38 PM   #14
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Got the reduction box off the Bell housing. Gonna be fun getting it out of the engine room and off the boat!

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Old 02-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Blue Heron View Post
Got the reduction box off the Bell housing. Gonna be fun getting it out of the engine room and off the boat!

Attachment 27673
I would get some 1" wide cargo strap material and a couple 1" hardwood dowels and rig up a harness. (Make 2, 6' lengths of strap with loops at the ends, maybe)
Wind the straps around it a couple turns, then (using the dowels for handles) have a buddy help bring it up. It would be a lot easier and safer than grappling that unit by hand.
Keep the rig for any other heavy mechanicals that might need boosted out of there someday.
If you're a 200 pound weightlifter, forget I said anything.
Just trying to be helpful.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
I would get some 1" wide cargo strap material and a couple 1" hardwood dowels and rig up a harness. (Make 2, 6' lengths of strap with loops at the ends, maybe)
Wind the straps around it a couple turns, then (using the dowels for handles) have a buddy help bring it up. It would be a lot easier and safer than grappling that unit by hand.
Keep the rig for any other heavy mechanicals that might need boosted out of there someday.
If you're a 200 pound weightlifter, forget I said anything.
Just trying to be helpful.
Great idea. Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:36 PM   #17
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Good luck getting it out and repaired, keep us updated.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:41 PM   #18
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When I was there...flight student could be bough cheap with beer...and they are usually in pretty good shape...who cares about their backs.....

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Old 02-26-2014, 08:15 AM   #19
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Put two long bolts in the engine mount holes, one on each side and you have handles. An oldtimer tought me that and it makes it a lot easier to work with.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:21 AM   #20
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Find some local 15-25yr old dudes to help. They will do anything for 20bucks, and most are remarkably strong.
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