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Old 09-05-2013, 10:41 AM   #1
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Valve adjustment Ford Lehman

Thinking about checking/adjusting valves. Any thoughts about how to turn the engine over manually? There's no big nut on the pulley, the engine synchronizer take off is right in the center of the pulley. I was thinking to maybe use a chain or strap wrench on the pulley.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Bob
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
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No Nut on the bottom pully?

Do a search for this. On this forum

Lehman SP135 Adjusting engine valves

back in 2011 forklift put up some pretty good pics.

SD
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:02 PM   #3
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The Key is usually getting Da Book as they will give the correct method.

EG , when the intake on cylinder one is just starting to lift , adjust cylinder 3 int and ex. Or similar.

This assures the cam is not lifting.

Different for most engines , so you need Da RIGHT Book!
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:39 PM   #4
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I got da book. No big nut on the pulley. Book doesn't explain how to turn the engine manually.

Bob
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #5
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I have a big nut on the front of my Lehman...do you have a dual belt pulley or other mod?

Should look like something below....

Do you have the manual for adjusting?

If not I can post the procedure.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:01 PM   #6
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I have the manual. My pulley is different. What's the engine in the picture? Mine is a SP225.

Bob
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:26 PM   #7
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I have the manual. My pulley is different. What's the engine in the picture? Mine is a SP225.

Bob
Not sure...just an internet photo but looks like my 120...

Do you have a pulley on front and what's holding it on?
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:01 PM   #8
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I think I just "ticked" the engine over when I did mine. You could try using the alternator pulley nut, that works perfectly on a Cummins 6B it might work on a Lehman.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:53 PM   #9
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I think I would consider removing the belt and using a chain wrench like u suggested.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:44 PM   #10
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In case anyone needs an FL120 manual, I have scanned copies on my website here:

Lehman Manuals
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:04 AM   #11
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I may give the alternator pulley a try. The engine pulley is a dual belt but I'm only running one so there is room for a chain wrench. Maybe I can rig something like a chain wrench with an old belt and use the spare groove.
The pulley is held on with four small bolts. I'm afraid to put a big load on those.

Bob
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #12
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Greetings,
Mr. BobH. I agree that you shouldn't put any great amount of torque on the "four small bolts". Just a thought...Since your pulley is a dual set-up, could it be that the outermost pulley is simply an add-on attached by aforementioned four bolts? Could it also be that the outermost pulley has a blind center that is hiding the large nut holding on the original pulley? If this is a possibility, simply remove the outer pulley to expose the nut necessary to turn over the engine. Viola! Since you're not using the second pulley, simply leave it off until such time it's use becomes needed.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #13
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No such luck, it's a one piece pulley. I've looked in the parts manual and it shows the four bolts. I think there is a hub behind it that the bolts go into.
I read your thread on the 135 and the clearances were for a cold engine. The 225 calls for the adjustment to be made at operating temperature. Right now it's close to 100 outside so I think I might wait a month or two.

Bob
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:02 AM   #14
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Greetings,
Mr. BobH. Well, that was my best shot...

...or shoot if you prefer...
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:04 PM   #15
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No such luck, it's a one piece pulley. I've looked in the parts manual and it shows the four bolts. I think there is a hub behind it that the bolts go into.
I read your thread on the 135 and the clearances were for a cold engine. The 225 calls for the adjustment to be made at operating temperature. Right now it's close to 100 outside so I think I might wait a month or two.

Bob
With outside temperatures THAT hot- I would say you are pretty close to operating temperature!! Just sayin'.....
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:15 PM   #16
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Good point!

Bob
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH View Post
Thinking about checking/adjusting valves. Any thoughts about how to turn the engine over manually? There's no big nut on the pulley, the engine synchronizer take off is right in the center of the pulley. I was thinking to maybe use a chain or strap wrench on the pulley.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Bob
there should be a opening on the bell housing to look at the fly wheel and see the top dead center mark.but you can turn it over by sticking a screw driver in the hole and turning it over by using the teeth on the fly wheel,been ther done that?
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:36 AM   #18
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there should be a opening on the bell housing to look at the fly wheel and see the top dead center mark.but you can turn it over by sticking a screw driver in the hole and turning it over by using the teeth on the fly wheel,

This works fine , but the tool to pry the flywheel is not a brittle screw driver , the too used for adjusting drum brakes is cheap, and built to pry.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:34 AM   #19
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Going to the boat today, I'll check that out.

Bob
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:56 PM   #20
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Went and looked and found no hole in bell housing. But did notice there are two bolts missing holding the bell housing to the engine block. I guess that's the sign of a "professional", never put back all of the bolts.

Bob
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