Valve adjustment Ford Lehman

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BobH

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Feb 25, 2012
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Whitby 42
Thinking about checking/adjusting valves. Any thoughts about how to turn the engine over manually? There's no big nut on the pulley, the engine synchronizer take off is right in the center of the pulley. I was thinking to maybe use a chain or strap wrench on the pulley.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Bob
 
No Nut on the bottom pully?

Do a search for this. On this forum

Lehman SP135 Adjusting engine valves

back in 2011 forklift put up some pretty good pics.

SD
 
Last edited:
The Key is usually getting Da Book as they will give the correct method.

EG , when the intake on cylinder one is just starting to lift , adjust cylinder 3 int and ex. Or similar.

This assures the cam is not lifting.

Different for most engines , so you need Da RIGHT Book!
 
I got da book. No big nut on the pulley. Book doesn't explain how to turn the engine manually.

Bob
 
I have a big nut on the front of my Lehman...do you have a dual belt pulley or other mod?

Should look like something below....

Do you have the manual for adjusting?

If not I can post the procedure.
 

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I have the manual. My pulley is different. What's the engine in the picture? Mine is a SP225.

Bob
 
BobH said:
I have the manual. My pulley is different. What's the engine in the picture? Mine is a SP225.

Bob
Click to expand...

Not sure...just an internet photo but looks like my 120...

Do you have a pulley on front and what's holding it on?
 
I think I just "ticked" the engine over when I did mine. You could try using the alternator pulley nut, that works perfectly on a Cummins 6B it might work on a Lehman.
 
I think I would consider removing the belt and using a chain wrench like u suggested.
 
I may give the alternator pulley a try. The engine pulley is a dual belt but I'm only running one so there is room for a chain wrench. Maybe I can rig something like a chain wrench with an old belt and use the spare groove.
The pulley is held on with four small bolts. I'm afraid to put a big load on those.

Bob
 
Greetings,
Mr. BobH. I agree that you shouldn't put any great amount of torque on the "four small bolts". Just a thought...Since your pulley is a dual set-up, could it be that the outermost pulley is simply an add-on attached by aforementioned four bolts? Could it also be that the outermost pulley has a blind center that is hiding the large nut holding on the original pulley? If this is a possibility, simply remove the outer pulley to expose the nut necessary to turn over the engine. Viola! Since you're not using the second pulley, simply leave it off until such time it's use becomes needed.
 
No such luck, it's a one piece pulley. I've looked in the parts manual and it shows the four bolts. I think there is a hub behind it that the bolts go into.
I read your thread on the 135 and the clearances were for a cold engine. The 225 calls for the adjustment to be made at operating temperature. Right now it's close to 100 outside so I think I might wait a month or two.

Bob
 
Greetings,
Mr. BobH. Well, that was my best shot...
http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/****.gif
...or shoot if you prefer...
 
BobH said:
No such luck, it's a one piece pulley. I've looked in the parts manual and it shows the four bolts. I think there is a hub behind it that the bolts go into.
I read your thread on the 135 and the clearances were for a cold engine. The 225 calls for the adjustment to be made at operating temperature. Right now it's close to 100 outside so I think I might wait a month or two.

Bob
Click to expand...

With outside temperatures THAT hot- I would say you are pretty close to operating temperature!! Just sayin'.....
 
BobH said:
Thinking about checking/adjusting valves. Any thoughts about how to turn the engine over manually? There's no big nut on the pulley, the engine synchronizer take off is right in the center of the pulley. I was thinking to maybe use a chain or strap wrench on the pulley.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Bob
Click to expand...
there should be a opening on the bell housing to look at the fly wheel and see the top dead center mark.but you can turn it over by sticking a screw driver in the hole and turning it over by using the teeth on the fly wheel,been ther done that?
 
there should be a opening on the bell housing to look at the fly wheel and see the top dead center mark.but you can turn it over by sticking a screw driver in the hole and turning it over by using the teeth on the fly wheel,

This works fine , but the tool to pry the flywheel is not a brittle screw driver , the too used for adjusting drum brakes is cheap, and built to pry.
 
Going to the boat today, I'll check that out.

Bob
 
Went and looked and found no hole in bell housing. But did notice there are two bolts missing holding the bell housing to the engine block. I guess that's the sign of a "professional", never put back all of the bolts.

Bob
 
I just kept the fuel shut-off pulled and bumped it with the starter. No biggie. The valve just has to be off the lobe of the cam...
 
Turns out that American Diesel has an adapter that bolts to the pulley and provides a big hex head.

Bob
 
Hello All,

As a newbie to the forum and recent owner (last 4 years) of a Defever 44 I am wanting to make an attempt to adjust my Ford Lehman 135 valves myself. It has been a couple of years ago since I "observed" my Mechanic doing the job and it "appeared" pretty straight forward.

I have attended Bob Smith's diesel engine class several years ago and while I took copious notes on how to complete this job, I unfortunately, have forgot most of what Bob taught. (a mind is a terrible thing to waste)

There are references to "Da Book" in this thread, but I am not sure what you are referring too. Does American Diesel have such a resource manual? If not, where can I get one? Are there any links to "youtube" or other type of medias to help educate oneself in this area?

Wanting to learn, and thank you for your help,

Rusty
 
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Da Book is usually the service manual. I'm sure theer is one available for your 135. We've got 120's, so no use what-so-ever.
 
RT Firefly said:
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Da Book is usually the service manual. I'm sure theer is one available for your 135. We've got 120's, so no use what-so-ever.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I will make a call on Monday to Brian at American Diesel and see if he can provide one.

Travel safe,

Rusty
 
RickB,

This is perfect, just exactly what I was looking for.

All the best,

Rusty
 
It's online:

http://www.baadteknik.dk/Motor-manualer/Ford-2720/Ford-Lehman-2722E.pdf
Click to expand...

There's an error on page A28 in the manual under 6 Cylinder engines, Valves to Adjust. The third sequence, with Valves Fully Open, 2 and 6, the book says to adjust valves 7 and 1. That is incorrect. You want to adjust valves 7 and 11. You will notice the opening and closing sequence as you go through the valve adjustment. It's a head scratcher the first time.
 
>The valve just has to be off the lobe of the cam...<


And the take up ramps as well.
 
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