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Old 02-16-2015, 09:49 AM   #21
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IF you decide to change fluid type....
I was told that the fluid in the reverse cylinder will stay there unless you remove the pressure port plug (or gage) and turn the tranny upside down to drain it.

Can someone confirm or deny that?
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:59 AM   #22
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My Velvet Drive manual says 30wt is "acceptable" it also says that Dexron is "preferred". Dexron is readily available and I'm not one to second guess the designers, so I use Dexron.

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Old 04-08-2015, 11:20 AM   #23
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Doing the same thing on my velvet drive. Marinegears.com also recommended RTV. 225 ft lbs. I have a 10:1 reduction gear.

Getting the old seal out will be sightless, by feel.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:38 PM   #24
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While tightening the nut on the transmission output flange what keeps the output shaft from turning?
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:18 PM   #25
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Good question Eric. I'm thinking a chain wrench around the flange such as this might be one way. http://m.sears.com/search_results/chain%20wrench


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Old 04-08-2015, 07:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkliftt View Post
Good question Eric. I'm thinking a chain wrench around the flange such as this might be one way. http://m.sears.com/search_results/chain%20wrench


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put a couple of old bolts in the flange jam them with a bar then tighten the big nut? worked for me
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:49 AM   #27
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Quote:
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put a couple of old bolts in the flange jam them with a bar then tighten the big nut? worked for me
I did mine in a similar way also. I actually bolted a piece of slotted angle iron to the flange. I had the stock laying around so it didn't cost me anything plus I had mine out and on a workbench.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard View Post

I did mine in a similar way also. I actually bolted a piece of slotted angle iron to the flange. I had the stock laying around so it didn't cost me anything plus I had mine out and on a workbench.
On a ski trip to Colorado from Maryland in a Volkswagen bus, we blew an oil seal that soaked the clutch requiring a seal replacement and a new clutch. We found the parts, parked in a shopping mall lot, dropped the engine to the pavement, rolled the bus forward, and started on the repair. We had tools along. All went well until we needed to unscrew a large gland nut holding on the clutch assembly. My friend had not brought along his lockup jig. The bumper had to be removed and was lying on the pavement. I noticed that the mounting points for the bumper looked to be about the same spread as the flywheel bolts so we simply bolted the bumper to the flywheel which, of course, created a massive lever which allowed us to get the gland nut off. Moral of the story? As suggested above, fashion a lever arm with holes that match your application, the longer the better.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:35 PM   #29
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Great story!


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Old 04-10-2015, 10:39 PM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. c. Hmmm...rear bumper bracket eh? I guess you never jammed a socket between the lower engine stud and the ring gear did you. All the same, good thinking.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:19 PM   #31
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Velvet Drive CR2 71C

Also need to replace the rear oil seal on one of my CR2 trannys. Where did y'all find a new seal? Jim
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:30 PM   #32
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Greetings,
Mr. m. Ordered from American Diesel. Arrived VA to FL in two days. Can't remember price but quite reasonable.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:53 AM   #33
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30wt oil may have "friction modifiers" in it, and that wont work well with the clutch.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:35 AM   #34
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I use synthetic because I want better bearing lubrication. The clutches work as they should.
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