Transmission rear oil seal

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Velvet Drive CR2 71C

Also need to replace the rear oil seal on one of my CR2 trannys. Where did y'all find a new seal? Jim
 
Greetings,
Mr. m. Ordered from American Diesel. Arrived VA to FL in two days. Can't remember price but quite reasonable.
 
I use synthetic because I want better bearing lubrication. The clutches work as they should.
 
Jumping on an older thread here but...

I need to tackle this project as well. Anyone know if there is anything I need to especially wary of when doing this with boat in water?

Thanks!
 
RTF-- While our Velvet Drive manual says engine oil is okay to use "in an emergency" it should be changed to ATF as soon as possible.

ATF to Dexron II standards should be very easy to find. Actually, we use the newer Dexron III now, which is backwards compatible with Dexron II. NAPA stores should have what you need if you're still looking for it.
Would you please send me the BW Velvet drive service manual as well As I am gonna have to service ours too soon!
 
Greetings,
Mr. ps. Thanks. I just thought of an advantage of continuing to use ATF. Any leaks are a tell-tale pink as opposed to straight 30wt. Still considering either...

+1. Good engineering practice.
 
BrandenS AND Sailor Mike

At the upper R.H. corner of these pages you will see a button "LIBRARY"

Click it and scroll through the pages. I thin 3 or 3 back there are several manuals for gears. Whether they are for your units or not I don't know. Check them out.
 
I suggest to anyone changing a seal to buy an extra, just in case the first one gets damaged somehow.

Daniel
 
@dvarholy Great idea! Thanks.

@C lectric Thanks for the link. I actually do have the original service manual. I think I more or less get the process, I'm just worried about anything I might not be aware of regarding the boat being in the water while doing the seal. I've never decoupled a shaft and want to make sure I don't wrench on something that could let water in.
 
changing velvet drive rear seal in the water

My mechanic pulled - just the reduction gear. It only weighs 50# and only needs a couple of inches of clearance from the prop shaft flange to clear the reduction gear spline.

He says this approach is much easier - and faster: $$$ - than taking out and replacing the seal when you cannot position yourself to the rear of the transmission because of a bulkhead.

In the process, he also discovered rust on the rear bearing that would have been missed if the seal were simply removed and replaced.

A second thought. I bought a fiber optic camera attachment from Amazon that wifi's to my iphone. I use it to look at anything that I can't get into position to see on my RV, my boat, etc. That's how I verified my tranny leak was coming from the rear seal. I plan to check out accessible parts of the transmission, while the reduction gear is off, to see if I have rust anywhere else in the tranny. With the boat in the water, there are many important things I cannot see without the fiber optic camera.
 
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