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Old 02-06-2013, 11:39 PM   #41
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Where is a reputable place to get an oil analysis done?
Any Cat or Detroit service center will have a sample kit.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:40 PM   #42
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I believe the theory is that having been run through the engine, some contaminants have been burned off, then the dirty oil is subjected to centrifugal separation and filtration that makes it cleaner than original.
My Hinos have centrifugal filters, I clean them every other oil change. The housing will have 1/8" - 3/16" of carbon caked to them. The oil stays clean looking on the dipstick way longer than other diesels I've worked on.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:56 PM   #43
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But an oil analysis every now and then on a few hundred hour per year (at most) toy boat engine is not as important as how the real things have been taken care of to prevent the oil from showing baddies. ......................

Oh, Tony Athens you say..................................

Part of his comment is, "put a random oil analysis where it belongs - at the bottom of the list of things to worry about."
For crying out loud! We're operating toy boats! These are not Euclid Earth Movers that operate around the clock.....change your oil and filters frequently and be done with it.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:57 PM   #44
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Marin I'm taking out dirty oil. 90% of it. But who knows there may be more old oil laying in puddleing spots in your engine than in my filter. You may think your's jolly correct as you do what your'e instructed to do but your oil may be more dirty than mine. I'm actually quite sure of it.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:59 PM   #45
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Walt is it too slipery for you?


Just go read another thread if you doint like oil.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:04 AM   #46
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Walt is it too slipery for you?
Just go read another thread if you doint like oil.
Sure, Eric....I'll get right on it.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:10 AM   #47
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....but your oil may be more dirty than mine. I'm actually quite sure of it.
And why would that be? I put 12 quarts in and when I change it I take 12 quarts out. I know this because I dump the old oil from the pump-out bucket into the empty gallon containers that the new oil came in. And the system I use to pump out the old oil goes to the lowest spot in the sump. If I pump the old oil out and then remove the sump drain plug, nothing comes out but a few drips.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:16 AM   #48
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Where is a reputable place to get an oil analysis done?
I get mine from American Diesel. Prepaid and not expensive. Plus they get a copy of the analysis and take a look as well, and will give you a call if they spot something that needs attention.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:27 AM   #49
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What if I give you the last word Marin?.

I'm fast getting to where Walt is.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:18 AM   #50
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Where is a reputable place to get an oil analysis done?
Any CAT or DD dealer. Most any heavy equipment or trucking sales or service company or a major fuel and lube distributor.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #51
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The oil stays clean looking on the dipstick way longer than other diesels I've worked on.
Be careful!!! The fact that it is "clean looking" may actually be bad. I bought a sailboat from a fellow. It had a diesel and it would be the first diesel that I had owned and cared for. I realized that the previous owner used a non-diesel rated oil...just your everyday Pennzoil that you would run in your car. That oil looked clean(on the dipstick) ALL the time. After doing a bit of research I realized that the oil was not the proper oil to be running in a diesel and changed to a proper oil. Guess what??? My oil no longer "looked clean on the dipstick"!!! Why??? Because the oil was doing it's job of removing the contaminants(suspending them) endemic to diesel engines.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:02 PM   #52
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Be careful!!! The fact that it is "clean looking" may actually be bad. I bought a sailboat from a fellow. It had a diesel and it would be the first diesel that I had owned and cared for. I realized that the previous owner used a non-diesel rated oil...just your everyday Pennzoil that you would run in your car. That oil looked clean(on the dipstick) ALL the time. After doing a bit of research I realized that the oil was not the proper oil to be running in a diesel and changed to a proper oil. Guess what??? My oil no longer "looked clean on the dipstick"!!! Why??? Because the oil was doing it's job of removing the contaminants(suspending them) endemic to diesel engines.
Good point. We have a Puradyn bypass filter with a 1 micron filter and the oil is still black even though the bypass clearly has the oil passing through it. The reason is because particles of carbon smaller than 1 micron are still sufficient to blacken the oil, but can't cause wear because they are smaller than the machine tolerances of the motor. You can't tell anything about the utility or condition of the oil from its color, other than it is or is not brand new.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:19 PM   #53
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So there's bad carbon and goo or harmless carbon. Kinda like cholesterol huh?
I'll bet it still cases engine wear.

Sixty grit and 800 grit still works as an abrasive.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:21 PM   #54
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So there's bad carbon and goo or harmless carbon. Kinda like cholesterol huh?
I'll bet it still cases engine wear.

Sixty grit and 800 grit still works as an abrasive.
Unless it never comes into contact with something to abrade. Kind of like a 1 micron abrasive particle suspended between two contact points 3 microns apart.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:05 PM   #55
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Unless it never comes into contact with something to abrade. Kind of like a 1 micron abrasive particle suspended between two contact points 3 microns apart.
Be careful of higher math around here...
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:19 PM   #56
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I'm a bit familiar with the hardness scale. How can a soft soot (C) particle abrade a hard engine alloy?

I'd always thought removing soot and other particles with the filters is to insure that lubricating oil passages, rings and bearings remain free and clear and oil doesn't become too viscous due to the trash buildup.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:32 PM   #57
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Tom I'm w you on the later but I thought carbon was hard as in high carbon steel. I think the "soot" and carbon are both black.

Delfin how's the one micron particle know to stay in the "middle"? And the two contact points would be carbon, soot or marbles?
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #58
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I'm a bit familiar with the hardness scale. How can a soft soot (C) particle abrade a hard engine alloy?

I'd always thought removing soot and other particles with the filters is to insure that lubricating oil passages, rings and bearings remain free and clear and oil doesn't become too viscous due to the trash buildup.
Soot by itself can't cause wear since as you note, it is softer than the steel. My understanding is the same as yours - that the harm is caused not by individual particles, which are tiny, but by their agglomeration into particles large enough to inhibit oil flow between wear surfaces. The additive package in the oil is supposed to keep the agglomeration from getting out of hand.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:53 PM   #59
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Tom I'm w you on the later but I thought carbon was hard as in high carbon steel. I think the "soot" and carbon are both black.

Delfin how's the one micron particle know to stay in the "middle"? And the two contact points would be carbon, soot or marbles?
Is that a serious question?

The contact points would be bearing races, shafts, rings, cylinder walls etc., which as far as I know are not made out of marbles.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:20 AM   #60
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Let's see...1 micron would equate to about a 1200 grit abrasive, with an average particle size of about 0.00005". Now what are those bearing clearances again?
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