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Old 05-27-2014, 12:02 PM   #21
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Mr. 11. You cut the packing at a 45 degree angle and butt the ends tight where they meet. Don't really tighten down on the gland nut until you've run a few minutes...Aw, heck... There's a tutorial somewhere about this that explains it a lot better but I can't find it in my links. Found it:

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Old 05-27-2014, 06:43 PM   #22
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Another vote for deep sixing the water line. I run ultra x packing and its cool and dry(much dryer than my previous dripless). My boat has 330hp twins and occasionally travels at high speed so a 8k boat would be even greater safety factor. The water line like a dripless unit is just another thing to go wrong.

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Old 05-28-2014, 11:40 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Northern Spy View Post
This is for people who cut to length as they are cutting a square profile and then bending it into a circle.

Mandrel cutting is the best method because of this. If you cut you packing on the shaft (as I do) and then lay it flat you'll see that the ends are not square.

Tightening the gland nut exerts axial force on to the packing which is transmitted into radial compression. The ring closest to the gland nut receives most of the force. The ring at the bottom of the box receives the least. The first ring is over compressed, and the last ring is under compressed.

75% of the sealing is done by the first ring or two nearest the gland. Often times when packing is fit wrong a gap is present at the packing ring in the bottom of the stuffing box. Excessive leaking takes place, the gland gets over compressed and the first ring of packing is now dragging on the shaft, creating heat, robbing horsepower, and depending on the packing material, wearing away the shaft or packing.

Furthermore, braided packing, particularly lattice braid, will shrink in length when compressed.
Ok. But how does any of that translate into achieving a space for water to enter between the shaft and packing?

Packing may shrink in length when compressed but it still will expand when compressed to fill, or over fill, the box and tighten down on the shaft blocking water flow

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Old 05-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #24
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Returning to the original question for a moment. I made what I thought was a very through search for a small BRONZE barbed fittings. I even contacted several of the dripless seal manufacturers all to no avail; they use yellow brass or nylon.

I finally ended up using red brass 1/8 NPT nipples and red brass bushings where needed. Red Brass does not dezincify like yellow brass, it is a cousin to bronze and easily available. 3/8 hose goes right on it. You can spin a nipple in your drill and cut a couple of grooves in it with a file just to keep any passing surveyor happy.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:01 AM   #25
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Brooksi, I asked my fitting supplier what his red brass fittings were really made of. I don't think he understood my question, they were made of red brass. He offered to send me the Material Safety Data Sheet. On this were all the ingredients of the metal. 85% Copper, 5 % Zinc and some other stuff. In other words it was 85-5-5-5 bronze. Not a thing wrong with doing what you did.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:39 AM   #26
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I usually cut the packing at an angle say 30-45deg so it will seal better than 90deg.

Also it is best to create a packing push in tool.

This is a hunk of plastic pipe that will fit between the shaft and stuffing box housing cut in half the long way.

Shafts are common sizes , pipe is a common size so its not hard.

On my 90/90 stern bearing the packing is 18 coils as it is the bearing surface too, so each is carefully slid in place then given a firm push .

The cut ends are spaced so they do not line up when being installed.

All are cut beforehand , so its only a couple of min to replace them all.

The new stuff like druramax or goretex is a gift from the Gods!

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