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Old 02-22-2013, 07:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Pineapple Girl View Post
Al are those packing removers? Whatever they are, where'd you get them?
They are half of my Harbor Freight Tools 4-piece Pick and Hook set.

Hurry down...they're on sale now for $0.99!!
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:11 PM   #22
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I just changed my impellers a couple of weeks ago. I used the two screwdriver method. One came out pretty easily and the other one took some coaxing (#@%*).

One of the impellers had some pieces missing. Fortunately, I didnít find any pieces when I checked the heat exchanger.
Jabsco recommends not using screwdrivers because of the possibility of gouging the pump walls and wear plate.
They also want to sell you their puller. If I was going to change impellers annually as recommended, I would probably buy one. I think they sell them at West Marine.

One of the new impellers went back in easily and the other took some coaxing again.
Make sure you really lube up the walls and the new impeller big time. I used Dawn.

When you take the old impeller out, check to see if the shaft is keyed or splined. You also might want to take a pic of the direction the blades were bending.

You probably want to take the old impeller with you when you go to buy some new ones. Pick up the kit. It has the gasket and shaft end cover in it.
I bought two spares.
Have fun. KJ
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:27 PM   #23
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One of the impellers had some pieces missing. Fortunately, I didnít find any pieces when I checked the heat exchanger.
Where do you suppose they are? Stuck somewhere in the system, before they got to the heat exchanger, causing a restriction in flow? I 'd want to know!
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #24
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I've found needle nose pliers work very well to remove impellers.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:18 PM   #25
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The impeller can wear a "groove" in the cover plate of the raw water pump over time. At least it can on the Jabsco raw water pump used on a stock FL120. As this happens the pump begins to loose its "compression" because some of the water can slip past between the impeller and the cover plate and the water flow will be reduced.

Our diesel shop in Bellingham taught me a technique that doubles the service life of the cover and that is when the inside of the cover begins to "groove" simply flip it over. The fact there is some writing engraved on the outside of the cover doesn't matter. Put the grooved side out and the smooth side in and get the same life out of the cover you did the first time.

Not until both sides of the cover plate have the groove worn in them do you need to buy a new cover. We did this until we replaced both of the stock raw water setups with new Johnson pumps. So far their covers show no sign of grooving.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:30 PM   #26
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Some Jabsco pumps also have a wear plate on the inner side of the impeller. My model, #10970, has this fwd wear plate which can also be reversed when needed.
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:01 AM   #27
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Seadog makes a less expensive knock off of the Jabsco Impeller puller. It looks pretty good but I've never used one. Jabsco pullers work very well.

Link: Sea-Dog : Quality Marine, Industrial and Rigging Hardware
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:43 AM   #28
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Bay Shore Marine makes an impeller puller that works very well when you don't have enough room for a conventional puller or have to work blind. This one tamed my Yanmar pump and is now one of my new favorite tools.




Link: IMPELLER PULLER
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:30 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHorse II View Post
Where do you suppose they are? Stuck somewhere in the system, before they got to the heat exchanger, causing a restriction in flow? I 'd want to know!
I think most of the pieces came out with the impeller. There is oil cooler between the pump and the heat exchanger. Some pieces might have settled in the hose elbows, but so far they havenít interfered with the flow.

Iíve run the engines several times since I changed the impellers, and they both run fine. The water flow coming out of both exhausts is very good. All temps and press are normal.

I was planning on doing an overhaul on the heat exchangers this summer. I can flush the whole system then. KJ
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:35 AM   #30
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I can't for the life of me figgure out why the impeller cover has those slot screws that always strip when you try to get them off. Even a phillips head would be better I guess they dont mak them in brass.

YES , best of all you can insert the allen wrench by feel , no need to even see the screw heads.,

The SS of hardware stores is suspect , so we simply replace them with each impeller.
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:48 AM   #31
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Following up after 2 years (and 300 hrs!) of service on the nitrile impellers and the allen screw modification shown in this post.

I normally have been changing my impellers every 200 hrs with neoprene impellers. I changed to nitrile impellers, but they've been looking normal at that interval and I've seen no change in water flow, so I decided to extend the interval to 300 hrs to see how they do. Here's a look at the used impeller on the left and the new impeller on the right for comparison.



There was no discernible difference in the used impeller aside from the blades which were compressed against the pump cam. I'm sold on the nitrile impellers and will probably shift to a 300 hr interval when using the nitrile impeller.

Also, the allen screw mod on my pumps made the task of removing and reinstalling the back plate a true piece of cake. The allen wrench is much easier to operate in the tight confines and the knurled head screws make finger tightening/loosening very simple. I had the job completed in about an hour including removing carpet, hatches and setting up tools.



Since the impeller change went so well, I had a little extra time for a job that was staring me in the face. The tell tale signs of salt buildup indicated the HX end cap had started a little seepage.

When I removed the end cap I found why...the PO had reassembled with silicone and had not used the rubber gasket on the end cap. A trip to to the auto parts store for gasket material and Permatex and I'm back in business. Just need to do the final tightening and testing when I return to the boat next time. (Those lower hose clamps have been changed, too!)

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Old 01-30-2015, 01:19 PM   #32
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I found the $45 for a Jabsco impeller remover somewhat steep so I bought a faucet seat remover from Home Depot and reworked it some. A whole lot cheaper than the Jabsco product, and it still does the job.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:42 PM   #33
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Use a toothbrush or whatever and spread Dawn between the vanes. Roll engine half a turn to spread it around. Don't start, or you will have a mess!! Once lubed, impeller usually pulls out easily with channel locks.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:58 PM   #34
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As is apparently the case on many boats, I have insufficient room aft of my pump for an impeller puller like ancora shows. About a year ago, I bought some pliers like this one. The jaw span is wide enough to grasp the impeller on each side of the center core between the blades.



I used them for the first time the other day and they worked great for under $10 at Harbor Freight.
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:16 PM   #35
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FlyWright - thanks for the long term follow-up post!
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:20 PM   #36
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Some waterproof grease on the shaft will help for next time
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:20 PM   #37
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Some waterproof grease on the shaft will help for next time
Would the stuff they use for swimming pools work?
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:20 PM   #38
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Harbor Freight has those right angle needle nose pliers cheap.
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:57 PM   #39
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On my Yanmars there is very little clearance behind the pump, I got a speed seal for the difficult to access port side, but it didn't help much, and I had trouble seating it correctly with the pump in place resulting in a leak.

The second time I changed the impellers I just pulled the whole pump. It was MUCH easier than fighting with the impeller, even on the stb side with good access. Also nice that now I don't lose any screws with the pump on the bench. I'll do it that way from now on.
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:23 PM   #40
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Another reason for not prying with pliers or screwdrivers. is you MAY ding the edges or the sealing face of the cover plate resulting in a leak/weep when the plate does not pull flat. Those gaskets are too thin to take up much of a ding.

With those bent nose pliers a piece of scrap wood or plastic, thin, would prevent the dings.

Just something to watch out for.
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