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Old 10-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #1
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Stiff flybridge shifter

The port shifter on the flybridge is somewhat hard to operate. At the lower helm it is really free. Is there a way to lubricate the cable going from the upper helm to the lower helm?

Bob
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:30 AM   #2
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The port shifter on the flybridge is somewhat hard to operate. At the lower helm it is really free. Is there a way to lubricate the cable going from the upper helm to the lower helm?

Bob
make sure it's the cable by disconnecting it and see how easily it does/doesn't slide.

If you think lube will help one of a thousand ways is stick the upper end into a ziplock baggie and tape tightly, add penetrating oil to the bak and zip it closed....hang the baggie/cable so the fluid (several ozs) can drain down into the cable slowly. It's helped with mine in the past but 9 times out of then it's not the cable..it's something else causing the binding and if it is the cable...replace it as even the slightest corrosion keeps it acting up.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #3
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Good point about corrosion since it is somewhat exposed to the weather. Do these cables come in standard lengths? It's something I 've never been involved with.

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:17 PM   #4
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Yes, they do- oftentimes, you can look at the outer cable jacket and readt the cable length.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:46 PM   #5
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Thanks, I'll check it out next time we're on the boat.

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Old 10-24-2013, 05:25 PM   #6
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Alternatively, just pull the cable and match it.

I'd also check the cable run to see how many angles are in the present cable, and see if there's a way to minimize the angles.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:05 PM   #7
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Alternatively, just pull the cable and match it....
If you do, make sure leave a trace so you can pull the new one threw.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #8
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Although it rarely helps to lubricate the cables, if you want to try, take a 1 foot length of 1/2 in clear hose, trim a rubber tire valve to fit one end of the hose and clamp it well. Fill the hose with light gear oil then slide the open end of the hose over the cable end and clamp it tight. Next use a bicycle pump and pressurize the hose to about 15 psi and leave it. In about 30 min you will start to see oil drip from the other end and your done. Release the pressure and hook the cable back up. (If you want to get fancy you can split the hose and add a guage as I did.)

The system works great and I have done all mine this way with some improvement but truth is if they are starting to bind, they need replacing. Keep in mind when they break, it is when you are maneuvering the boat not out cruising in open water. I shudder to think of one breaking while docking in close quarters and a strong wind.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:15 PM   #9
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Bob, I replaced my engine controls some time ago and posted some notes on what and how. The link below might be of use.

Renewing engine control cables
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:42 AM   #10
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Lubing cables is very common on motorcycles.

Most MC dealers will have universal kits to do the task.Under $20 for most.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #11
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I think I'll try lubing them first. The two pipes coming from the fly bridge down are really loaded, Not sure I would want to try to pull new cables through. Is it possible to pull the cable out of the jacket, clean it, lube it and put it back?

Thanks for all the comments,

Bob
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:04 PM   #12
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. . . . Is it possible to pull the cable out of the jacket, clean it, lube it and put it back?
No, the threaded ends of the inner wire/core are significantly larger than the opening in the ends of the sleeve.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:13 PM   #13
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Bummer!

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Old 10-30-2013, 07:54 AM   #14
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Bummer!

No problem with a motorcycle lube system.
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