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Old 12-02-2015, 12:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
The spec per the Sherwood pump drawing is 28.5 GPM at 3000 rpm (that would be pump rpm).I don't know what the gear ratio between the engine and pump is.
I will send you the drawing via e mail.
Thanks! I don't think I'm seeing near that at the exhaust outlet.
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Old 12-02-2015, 12:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by FF View Post
More important than steam in the exhaust is heat in the seawater side of the cooling system.

Use your lazer gun to see if the sea water gets to 140F anywhere in the circuit.

140F is about where salt will come out of suspension and begin to plug whatever its running thru.
140 is about the temp of the water just prior to injection to the elbow. I'm eager to get engine back together after all this work:
Rebuild air charge unit (extremely scaled)
Remove, disassemble, acid clean heat exchanger
Remove and clean out oil heat exchanger.
Remove and clean *all* pipes, elbows, coolant tank
Rebuild turbo
Descale/clean exhaust manifold using pump circulated evapo-rust

I'm contemplating using Redline water wetter or Purple Ice instead of antifreeze.

Some of the freshwater pipes had an awful layer of orange goo on the inside. I'd like to flush the block but don't know how or what chemical to use. I have the pump and bucket from the exhaust manifold and could rig up a similar system to cycle a chemical to dissolve the orange goo that's probably all over the inside of the block.

Questions:
Do people use distilled water or tap water in the cooling circuit?
What's a safe product and process to flush the freshwater cooling circuit?

Thanks,
RR
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:39 PM   #23
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There are lots of brands of cooling system cleaners. You can get the Prestone brand at Walmart, etc. I'm sure auto parts stores have them too. Just follow the directions.
I have heard some say they use dishwasher soap.
Whatever you use, rinse well.
I use distilled if I remember to buy it. Otherwise I use tap water.
I have never had a problem that I know of using tap water.
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:42 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
not sure saying that steam signifies a problem is totally accurate...a large percentage of every boat I have ever been on steams a little during the right circumstances.

heck, under the right circumstances, the water you are going through is steaming without going through the engine....

thus the term "steam fog".....
I agree and maybe its because I boat in relatively cold water. (L I Sound).
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:51 PM   #25
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I had boats in NY and SF for years and never saw anything but occasional wisps of steam. VMMV but look at the pix posted above of the inlet elbow.
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:01 PM   #26
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We had that kind of "growth" in the intake through-hull for our port engine. It had obviously been developing for some time before we acquired the boat and trucked it up here. The evidence that we had a cooling problem did not come from steam in the exhaust but from an overheat in the engine near the end of a two week cruise that fall. We shut the engine down before the temperature got anywhere near dangerous and completed the last leg of the cruise on the other engine.

The diesel shop found the problem and chipped the stuff out. They said they had seen this sort of thing on occasion but it was very rare. Whatever it was has never come back.

The days were getting cooler and there was some steam in both exhausts. This did not change after the through-hull for the port engine had been cleared out and it has been a characteristic of the exhaust from both our engines during the cooler months for the last 17 years we've owned the boat.

Steam can indicate a developing problem and it can also be totally normal for a particular engine/exhaust configuration/ambient temperature/humidity combination.
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:35 AM   #27
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Distilled water , with 30% antifreeze to help stop corrosion is about as light as you can go.

Anti freeze only has 5/8 the heat transfer ability of pure water.

The cooling system has many different metals so the corrosion resistance is a good idea.

Tap water come in many versions , some pure some horrid in terms of mineral content.

.80c a gal for distilled is cheap insurance,

Water wetter is just a detergent to help break surface tension.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:55 AM   #28
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My Crusader 454 350s (stats at 187) steamed all the time. And it increased at this time of the year when the air is substantially cooler.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:25 AM   #29
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Please accept my apologies for high-jacking your thread, but after reading the comments here, I was amazed at how many Perkins owners have chimed in. I am in desperate need of parts to rebuild my starboard T6-354 (X) (CCWR). I have been told that there are no parts available for the X engine. I have also been told that the pistons and connecting rods are different than those in the T6-354 (CWR) engine. Is this true?, and, if so, can you offer an alternative solution to this re-build dilemma?


Advice and Options Much Appreciated
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:44 AM   #30
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RR:


Some observations:


The 28.5 gpm spec that someone quoted for the Perkins seems extraordinarily high. Could he have meant 28.5 gph?


Also your reported 140 degree water at the injection elbow is high. The raw water temperature rise shouldn't be any more than about 20 degrees. So unless your sea water temp is 120, you do have a problem.


But that problem is just as likely to be a restriction as it is scale. Scale affects the heat transfer rate but if there is no flow restriction the outlet raw water temp should be near normal. Only if the water flow rate is lower will the temperature rise to transfer the same amount of heat but at a higher temperature due to fewer pounds per hour passing through.


So the point of all this pseudo engineering is to look for a restriction: external strainer, internal strainer, collapsed hose, pieces of impeller blocking the heat exchanger, plugged mixer. Or look for reasons why the pump isn't pumping: impeller or cam.


David
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:28 AM   #31
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Very interesting, I had no idea the raw water temp increase should only be +20. When I get everything back together that's the first thing I'll check.
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:37 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Nemo View Post
Please accept my apologies for high-jacking your thread, but after reading the comments here, I was amazed at how many Perkins owners have chimed in. I am in desperate need of parts to rebuild my starboard T6-354 (X) (CCWR). I have been told that there are no parts available for the X engine. I have also been told that the pistons and connecting rods are different than those in the T6-354 (CWR) engine. Is this true?, and, if so, can you offer an alternative solution to this re-build dilemma?


Advice and Options Much Appreciated
Thank You
Capt Nemo
I'm sure we'll chime in if you start a new thread. BTW, if you're rebuilding why not just do the sleeves and rings, as I'm guessing those would be the same. I'm looking at the workshop manual, and it includes contra rotating engines. The specs for pistons, valves, rings, bearings, etc make no mention of reverse engines.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
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RR:


Some observations:


The 28.5 gpm spec that someone quoted for the Perkins seems extraordinarily high. Could he have meant 28.5 gph?

David
I quoted that number. Directly off of Sherwood's engineering drawing.
Would you like a copy?
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:07 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
I quoted that number. Directly off of Sherwood's engineering drawing.
Would you like a copy?
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