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Old 12-20-2016, 10:36 AM   #21
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Some annoying PO/mechanic thought it appropriate to affix the engine flange to the propeller shaft with Locktite. I had to cut the shaft to get it apart. New shaft and split flange went back in.

Perhaps wire the setscrews?
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:06 PM   #22
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Look up Dodge taper bushings.
And. Ringfeder bushings.
Don,t screw up the shaft.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:53 AM   #23
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You could have the wrong belts on the pulley. The wear marks should be in the center of the sidewalls. It appears from the picture that the belts may be bottoming out in the sheave. This will cause overheating. Steve D'Antonio just posted an excellent article on belts. Belts | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:21 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHeckrotte View Post
Some annoying PO/mechanic thought it appropriate to affix the engine flange to the propeller shaft with Locktite. I had to cut the shaft to get it apart. New shaft and split flange went back in.

Perhaps wire the setscrews?
His engine shaft is easy to heat and put on a puller if using loctite.
Interesting but seems a bad idea to use loctite on a propeller shaft coupler where you have little room to work. I need a new coupler and will get a split coupler. I think they work better with old shafts where the shaft end might be worn.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:10 AM   #25
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Thanks again for all the help. I have ordered some Loctite 660 and an hoping it is going to be just the thing. I suspect it may have been put together with that in the first place. There was a tube of loctite that I thought was pipe dope in one of the bins of spare parts that came with the boat, but I now suspect it may be for this very shaft. I will work on it after the holidays.

The wear in the photos is from the brand new belt jumping off the tensioner when the pulley slipped, and being dragged through the side of the tensioner upside down.

The shaft this is going in is not the end of the crank shaft, it is a short shaft that is welded to a flange, which is bolted to the front of the tapered OEM pulley that runs the water pump and alternator. The only crumby part is you have to slide the outer pulley out a little bit to be able to loosen the flange bolts. This is hard if it is glued on there.
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:17 AM   #26
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Why don't you get a taper lock pulley and be done with it???
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:52 AM   #27
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Why don't you get a taper lock pulley and be done with it???
I have to agree with this.
While Loctite might work, a taper fit will work.
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Old 04-08-2017, 09:51 PM   #28
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If anyone is interested, here is how all this turned out. I was pretty excited about about the lock tight initially, but then decided I should fix it right and go with the taper fit pulley. I spent a bunch of time on line finding the right size pulley and bushing to go with it. When I installed it, it didn't work out at all. I didn't have enough adjustment in the shaft, to get is as close to the engine as I needed it for the belts to line up. Big waste of many hours and a couple hundred bucks.
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Old 04-08-2017, 09:55 PM   #29
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Next I ordered some Locktight 660 and some special locktight cleaner/ activator spray. I put the old pulley's back on with this. It worked sweet for about 20 hours, then one of the two pulleys loosened up again. I was pretty bummed out.
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Old 04-08-2017, 10:09 PM   #30
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After all this I was very disappointed, and feeling very unconfident in this setup, which runs my refrigeration compressor, freezer compressor, house bank alternator, hydraulics. In all this messing around I also discovered that the original pulleys were about 1/8" too far out from the engine for the belts to be perfectly aligned, which is suspect might have unevenly loaded the belts, and been part of the cause for them loosening up. I decided to take the nuclear option, and open up the checkbook. I took the parts To a local machine shop and had them make me some new custom stainless steel pulley's that were the proper alignment, and incorporated the flange to attach to the factory engine pulley, and the sheave all in one piece. Of coarse, the second original pulley that was still stuck with the locktight 660 was about impossible to get off. Heating it up to 450F on the engine took me forever. I finally got it off, and was very relieved to put the new ones on and find that I had figured the measurements right and the belt alignment was perfect. It cost a bunch, but they look sweet, and I am very confident they will never fail, or give me any trouble, and they are much easier to get off than the old setup.
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Old 04-08-2017, 10:14 PM   #31
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Greetings,
Mr. S. Throughout this thread I could sense your mounting frustration. I'm glad you finally resolved your dilemma in spite of the fact it was $$. Sometimes ya just gotta bite the bullet. Congratulations. VERY nice ER, by the way...
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