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Old 05-29-2017, 07:56 AM   #1
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Simple (for you) filter change help

Can someone give me the basics on changing these filters? I know it is a bit messy. Have replacements with new O rings/gaskets.

1) Does the center bolt on top go all the way through to the white knob at the bottom?
2) Is white knob used to open up the filter to drain before changing?
3) The other bolt that is offset on top is to bleed after change is complete, using the lever on the fuel pump. Got that but do I open and bleed them at the same time or one at a time and does it matter which order they are changed?
4) Is there anything unexpected i.e. spring, ball valve, etc. that is going to fall into the bilge when I open this up?


Thanks in advance for any help....first time CAV changer...
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:03 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. I thought I covered that quite extensively in this thread (Post #9)...
FL SP135 Fuel Filter Question
To answer your immediate questions:
1) No
2) Yes. Loosen the associated bleed screw on top to facilitate drainage.
3) One at a time. I usually start on the one closest to the fuel lift pump.
4) Not as far as I'm aware.

Write the date and the engine hours right on the new filter as well as in your maintenance log.
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:43 AM   #3
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RTF:
Yes, yes you did. Now that I am looking at my picture your instructions make sense. Something confused me yesterday, not sure what. Newb Brain Fart Syndrome (NBFS) I think? Thanks again and thanks for not blowing me off the site due to a case of the Duhs (COTD).
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:59 AM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. Not a problem. The CAV filter change does seem daunting with the potential for numerous contributions to the "cuss jar" but properly prepared it's really pretty straight forward. I should comment, the cleanliness of your engine is outstanding.
Just make sure you have a goodly supply of absorbent pads and paper towels close at hand AND a trash pail/container to dispose of them immediately. Sort of defeats the purpose of sopping up any spillage and then having no place to put the soaked towel short of on deck of your ER.
I anxiously await the report on a successful completion...

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Old 05-29-2017, 10:23 AM   #5
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One more question on the Lucas 296's. Mine have a green stripe. The ones I see listed online are red. Can't find a green stripe anywhere. I would think that would indicate micron filtering level of each. However, I don't see anything saying which is which?
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Old 05-29-2017, 11:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
I should comment, the cleanliness of your engine is outstanding.

Here is the bigger picture...so proud! Please ignore the fact that someone else took care of keeping it clean for the first 29 years of its life. Me the last two months.
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:38 PM   #7
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Nice looking ER. Wish mine was so clean and spacious.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:26 PM   #8
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In case you don't have it yet:
Diesel Fuel Filter Operators Book (CAV).pdf

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Old 05-29-2017, 07:35 PM   #9
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Nice looking ER. Wish mine was so clean and spacious.
It is nice and clean and well lit. PO put up LED's around the outside rim of the ER and it is great lighting. I think the spacious you are seeing is a function of the camera lens and not reality. It has some room but still need to be some what of a very bent over monkey to get around and do things.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:53 PM   #10
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I love our boat, but access around the engines leaves a lot to be desired. I have lots of wiring to clean up. I would like to clean and paint the bilge, but it is really tight and as I get older, I don't fit as easily as I used to...
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:27 PM   #11
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I know you are 2 months into ownership of this boat, so you may not yet have the answers:
1 do you know when the filters were last changed?
2 Is there also a Racor primary filter on the supply, before the pair on the engine?
3 do you fuel at a clean source?
4 How frequently do you intend to change out your filters?

1 If your PO kept the ER so clean, chances are he also changed the filters on a strict, frequent schedule and recorded those changes in the log.
2 If you have a Racor ahead of the Lucas filters, then you have a 3 stage filtration system. 30, 10, 2 would be my guess.
3 If your home port fuel supply is a high volume supplier, from one of the big guys, chances are god that you are getting very clean fuel
4 All of 1, 2 and 3 will influence the frequency of renewing the filters.

Over the 30 years since your engines were new, the EPA rules have mandated the supply of highway fuel become cleaner burning, going from 5000 ppm to 500 ppm in 1994, then to 15 ppm. Marine fuels became mandated to 500 ppm in 2007 and to the present level of 15 ppm in 2012. This has also resulted in far cleaner fuel, with respect to other contaminants, so your filtering needs have diminished by about the same proportions over that period. So if, in 1987, when your engines were new, fuel contained 5000 ppm sulphur and now contains 15 ppm sulphur, your filters should last proportionately (333 times) longer.

In real terms, in 1994, when my boat was new to me I had to change the Racors so often that I kept a supply of 4 spares on board. I changed the secondaries annually. Since the fuel supply got cleaned up.... I had to change my on engine secondary filters a couple of years ago, as I was experiencing starving of one engine at higher rpm. I checked my log and noted that the last time that filter was changed was 12 years before. The Primary Racors, now go as much as 4 years between changes, but those are glass bowl 500s, so I can see how when they are getting ready for a change. Thank you EPA.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:16 AM   #12
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Interesting theory , but sulphur was removed to "clean" the air , has nothing to do with dirt in the fuel.

Your use of fewer filters over years sounds like more boat use that slowly caught and removed tank gunk.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:59 AM   #13
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Thanks koliver. Here is what I know and am trying to address.

1. I have two Racor 500's primaries, switchable not in series, for each engine. They have 30 micron elements and changed every year or as needed.

2. Two on-board filters per engine. They are the Lucas HDF 296's with a green stripe. According to one link I found the red stripe 296's are 5-7 microns. I don't know if the green stripe ones I have are the same. I can find no online reference or picture of green stripe units at all. Owner mentioned changing them and there are two spares on the boat but I don't know how often.

3. PO bought what he thinks was bad fuel in KY while bringing the boat down from Wisconsin last fall. Marina dropped the end-of-the-season-get-rid-of-the-fuel price so much he couldn't resist even though his brain said not to buy. After a blow on Mobile Bay stirred things up he had to change the Racor on the starboard tank. I had the boat filled up, reputable fuel source, when I purchased it. The port tank took more fuel than the starboard. I assume that the PO ran on that tank only when the starboard one showed bad? Now I find the port side Racor filthy. Changed it but it makes me suspect of what got through to the secondary filters on the engine. This is what led me to these questions.

4. With the FL 135's being 30 years old I plan on babying them and would think that annual change of all filters would be good. I can see the Racor 500's so that is easy to monitor. Until I am sure that I have good/clean fuel I will be checking and changing more frequently. Plan on having the fuel and tanks cleaned as soon as I can get the fuel levels below the inspection plate. Never had tanks cleaned/fuel polished but think this is necessary unless I take it to a marina where they can pump out enough diesel to open it up? Not sure.

5. Filtering by 30/10/2 would seem to be a good way to go given what I read. However, it appears I have 30/5-7/5-7 microns. I believe I had read that 2 mics on the old Lehmans is overkill but..how can that hurt? I didn't realize that the two on-board units were in series. Thought they filtered at the same time. That's good to know obviously.

6. If I want to set up the on-board CAV's for 10 and 2 microns....how? I can't find the micron spec on the Delphi/Lucas 296's being sold online. Do they make a 2 micron element to fit? I know there is more to a filter than simple microns but it is beyond my knowledge to decide on a better element at higher mics.

7. Right now the plan is to change all 4 of the secondaries but I only have 2 spares. Need more which again brought me here to discuss where to get them.

8. I also see Delphi 296's listed as HDF296 and 7111 296. Don't know the difference though. Same?

Thanks for the comments and help!
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:02 AM   #14
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I don't think that you can get the secondaries in 2 micron. I would go with 10 micron primaries. I woild rather change the racors than the on engine filters.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:25 AM   #15
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CAV filters

I have replaced mine with spin-on filters, but as I remember the original filter gaskets have a top and bottom. Top of gasket was marked with blue. If you get it wrong, it will leak.

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Old 05-30-2017, 12:11 PM   #16
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I have SP225s. Brian said the spin on filters don't fit maybe because of the intercooler.
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:40 PM   #17
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Where's the best place to get these 296 filters? Amazon?
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:44 PM   #18
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I bought my replacements from rockauto, they have the acdelco and wix replacement, not sure for other brands. These can be bought in any parts shop/truck shop and do seem to be common.

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Old 05-30-2017, 03:54 PM   #19
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NAPA has them as well...
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_tribal View Post
I bought my replacements from rockauto, they have the acdelco and wix replacement, not sure for other brands. These can be bought in any parts shop/truck shop and do seem to be common.

L.
Ordered. Thanks.
They had the wix for about $6 each with shipping. Seems like most other places were $9-11 for the equivalent filter.




Quote:
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I have SP225s. Brian said the spin on filters don't fit maybe because of the intercooler.
Yep. The stock ones on my 225s are hard enough to get on/off with the heat exchanger...Especially on the starboard side.
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