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Old 12-07-2014, 09:59 AM   #21
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Anybody remember ARCO Graphite, black when it went in , black when it came out. No complaints about how it lubricated. Was certainly messy stuff. The old Castor based oils sure smelled good in old 2 stroke motorcycles.
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Old 12-07-2014, 08:05 PM   #22
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My brother retired from an oil refinery (Cities Service) after 30 years. He worked in a joint venture between Citco & Contenental (ConocoPhillips). They refined lube oils. He runs and advised me to run Rotella 15-40 in all water cooled engines & straight 30 in all air cooled engines. Once warmed up, the engines don't care what the outside temperature is. I have been doing this for many many years. I own a trucking company and run R 15-40 in the trucks, all gas pickups as well as my wife's jeep. No prob making a million miles between in frame rebuilds. And my pickup and jeep have approx 135k miles each. I live in Ohio and the engines have no prob starting up in single digit temps. The diesel oils have not been stripped by the EPA as the gas motor oil has been. Just sayin.
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Old 12-07-2014, 08:30 PM   #23
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IIRC much of this was covered in the 483 post "Any Synthetic Oil Users Here?" thread.

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Old 12-07-2014, 10:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siestakey View Post
This sounds like the debate back in the 70s when we all ran hotrods Castrol against all the others
Years ago Castrol ran an advertising campaign called "Oils ain`t Oils" here, to differentiate their oil products in the market. IMO, in most cases they are. I think one time I bought "Nulon" it had little white "BP" stickers on the drum.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:39 PM   #25
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I can think of a case where you might want to use Delo over Shell or Shell over Delo.

30wt oil is not 30wt oil. It may be 26wt or 34wt oil. Shell rates it as 30wt but in reality may be too viscous to rate as 20wt or too "thin" or nonviscous to rate as 40wt so it's labeled 30wt.

Now if I knew Shell was 27wt and Delo was 33wt I'd know which one to buy but they both are rated 30wt.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:42 PM   #26
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Here is a question, is oil brand more or less important than frequency of oil change?
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:56 PM   #27
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Brand is less important than frequency.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:32 AM   #28
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Another thought on getting what you buy/brand. Oil/Gas companies regularly exchange like products. If Company A has 10,000 barrels of Type X on the east coast and Company B has 10,000 barrels of Type X on the west coast, they have been known to exchange or trade loads. So, the ONLY way to truly know what's inside of those oil jugs is to analyze it ourselves. OR trust what the jug/bottle says is in there. Brand means little.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:11 AM   #29
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Both are used in engine that cost more then most of our boats interchangeably.

Get what is on sale, change as recommended.

Sleep well and worry about something important.
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Old 12-08-2014, 11:29 AM   #30
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The difference in oil is mostly in the additive package mostly needed for modern engines the Air Police has decided must eat their own exhaust. EGR

If the engine is old enough and a straight weight of oil can be used I believe the service life will be longer.

The additive package is smaller , so there is 10-25% more oil , in the oil.

Also the flour like thickening agent is not installed in single weight , a plus I think.

The requirement for multi weight oil is mostly to improve mileage a tiny bit.

The thin oil drains off faster , requiring less HP to scrape the oil on each down stroke (like synthetic) .

At 1.5 to 5 GPH fuel burn I am not sure any saving will be realized.

Starting below 30F ?, get the block heater going , not thin oil.


Well said.

I've been using 15-40 on and off since last year when i was in Maine and all the fishing boats were using it. Brand doesn't seem to matter, well it may matter, between one or another, it may take a few or add a few hours on to the life of the engine at the 20,000 hour point. If that

I think as long as I'm north, I will put the multi weight in for the winter, even if hardly using the motor and then change to 40wt at the spring oil change for summer cruising.

I only wish i had brought more oil accross the Atlantic with me.

First mayonnaise and now oil. Will the tragedies never end
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:58 PM   #31
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I love FF talking oil.

Never ever had the slightest drop in cranking speed w 30Wt oil in my late model engine and it's spent most of it's time in Alaska. If you don't need it oil is better w/o viscosity improvers just like gasoline is better w/o octane booster ... if you don't need it. And I doubt if anyone on this forum needs it.

Richard I frequently put two quarts of 40wt oil in w the 30wt for oil changes in the summer. Same brand and type of course.
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:16 PM   #32
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This is very amusing to me. Any mechanic that would make that claim is smoking something beside diesel fumes.

I can buy both brands in bulk here. Just take an empty bottle and pump your own. Back in the early 80's all you had here was Delo 400 straight weight. Almost all truckers and boaters used it. Now the shift is Rotella or Delvac.

When I go to those stores they all say the truckers switched to Mobil Delvac for the most part and Shell Rotella and all use multi weights. Not much Delo is being sold, especially straight weights.

I realize trucks have a shorter life cycle and newer one come in the picture.

My own personal experience was Shell worked much better for me than Chevron Delo. I think there wouldn't be any wear differences though as the mechanic stated. Frequency of oil changes with new filters, or replacing the filter more frequent and adding a quart should be more important than oil brand.

In my GMC diesel truck, I stopped using Delvac1, the synthetic, for two oil changes because I realized I changed to synthetic oil before the engine was broken in and seated. I was burning some. I went back to Delvac and each oil change the burning of oil has lessened and I am seeing it's breaking in slowly. I might need 50,000 miles on it before I change back. I made my first change at 16,000 miles. Way too early for a diesel engine.
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:20 PM   #33
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JESSEDIVER49, FWIW: I would say that in the end most marine Diesels find their end of life comes for reasons unrelated to the brand of oil used. I would use either brand of oil and find other things to worry about.

Perhaps it is folk-lore, but I would be a bit cautious about changing brands each oil change, there was that talk about 'additive compatibility'. Not sure if it really is a big deal or not; in the end we carry two+ complete oil changes worth of oil, so even if we did want to switch it would not be every time..

But as to your original question: Availability, price, keeping it clean and in the engine are perhaps the most important things to worry about

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Old 12-08-2014, 01:34 PM   #34
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Oil is Oil and API ratings are ratings IMO. Unless you own or have built something that is under massive amounts of stress (racing, extreme temps, etc.) or have something modern built to incredibly high tolerances with emissions components...old dirty diesels will like pretty much anything you give them as long as they meet or exceed the rating required by the manufacturer.


Sure synthetic is great but is the additive package and base stock really necessary on an older boat diesel...mmmmeh
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:54 PM   #35
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Capthead,
The trucks get some benefit from multi-vis oil because they (their engines) are exposed to 100% of the cold in the air whereas our boats live in a relatively snug engine compartment and most even have some sort of heat. Mine does when it gets well below 30 degrees. No need for MV oil but the need for all the oil one can get into the fluid you pour into your crankcase is obvious. I'm with FF on this one ..... and several others as well.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:11 PM   #36
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Manyboats, I don't know enough about straight weight to say and both my oil business relatives have passed so I have some "digging" to do .
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:19 PM   #37
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Pour out some 30w oil at 30 degrees and watch how slow it is. Or change your oil without warming up the engine. We know that trying to suck the oil out of a cold engine is really difficult. The only way oil will lube the engine is if it flows through all the bearing surfaces. Pour out some 0-xx synthetic at 30 degrees and then see for yourself the difference. If you want to reduce wear the solution is obvious. Personally I don't stress over it at all; my Lehman will outlive me on a diet of Delvac, Rotella, Delo 10-30.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:56 PM   #38
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Oil is not compressible (as far as I know) and oil pumps in engines are positive displacement gear pumps so at any given engine speed the amount of oil pumped through an engine is the same w any viscosity oil used.

Tell me if I'm wrong about the above and I'll change my tune.

I put 30wt oil in my old Nissan and it started right up at 25 degrees F (or perhaps colder). I realize that if one tried to start a cold engine at 40 below the shaft to the oil pump gears may be at risk of breaking. However most all of our boats engines don't get colder than about 40 degrees so I see no need for multi-viscosity oil. We also warm up our boat engines slowly.

The only real reason I see for using MV oil in our boats is so the operator can feel like he's not an old codger that is so unconnected he dosn't know about the newest and most advanced products and their advantages. But some advantages of newer products will not be realized in all circumstances. One of those circumstances is in small boat engines that don't get cold and aren't needed to run at heavy loads immediately after being started.

This is however very achedimic as engines will run almost exactly as well and as long w MV or single weight oil as long as the oil used conforms to the engine manufacturers recommendations.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:29 AM   #39
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I'll bet there are maybe, oh, three owners on this site who will ever get anywhere near the end of life of any of our boat engines. Gasoline, probably. But these big slow-turning diesel engines die or break or fail for many other reasons than oil. Most of our engines fail for lack of use, perhaps lack of maintenance, but never for high-time worn out reasons. I have heard that Lehmans running a pump or a genset can get 30,000 hours, but they are only shut down for oil changes (unless they can be hot-oiled?). Lots of engines are life-rated for so many thousands of gallons of fuel. I'll bet that only 2 or three of us will ever reach that.

Therefore put any oil you want in there, your engine will never know the difference and you will never live long enough to see your engine die of old age.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:42 AM   #40
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Is every bearing surface on an engine forced lubed across its entire surface?

I have always been taught, no.

That is one of the the reasons for lower viscosity oils, otherwise just use 90wt everytning.
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