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Old 01-23-2015, 10:58 AM   #1
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Shaft Saver?

My BW tranny seal has started to leak. A friend suggested installing a shaft saver when I replaced the seal. He said it is kinda like a bushing that helps protect the seal. Are any of you guys familiar with this? Advise please. Thanks. (FL120 w BW Velvet Drive tranny)
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:22 AM   #2
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Shaft Saver is a trade name for a flexible coupling. They supposedly provide some shaft mis-alignment tolerance. I have Shaft Savers on my boat.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:34 AM   #3
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I have a drive saver made by Globe Rubber. PYI also makes them. Simple install.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:01 PM   #4
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Regadless of the shaft saver installation if you have an alignment issue I think you may want to adress that.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:15 PM   #5
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I agree. I have an exposed propeller on my boat and installed the Drivesaver in the hopes that it would reduce impact damage should I strike an underwater object. The Drivesaver is designed to shear in this event.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:21 PM   #6
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R&D Marine Flexible Shaft Coupling Vs. Globe Rubber Drivesaver - Seattle WA

http://www.globecomposite.com/Marine...cts_Drivesaver
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:56 PM   #7
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I believe the "shaft saver" he is referring to is a thin tube with a polished and ground surface used to cover the groove worn into a shaft by a seal. They come in many sizes both inch and metric and are made by C/R and others. They are readily available online or at any bearing house. You simply drive the tube on with the aluminum driver supplied with the tube and then use a pair of "dikes" to tear off the "top hat."
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:04 PM   #8
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Two different things. Drive saver et al are the rubber things that go between the flanges.

Redi sleeve et al are pressed on shafts to cover a groove worn into where seal rides.

In op's case, if a groove is worn in output flange, just replace it. And unless it has a gazillion hours, I bet there is no unmanageable groove. Minor ones can be cleaned up.
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:06 PM   #9
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There are repair sleeves that are used to restore a damaged or worn surface on a rotating shaft so that a seal can be replaced and function properly.



It sounds like that is what your friend is referring to as a 'shaft saver'.

Some are very thin and can be installed directly over the worn area. without machining. Other repair sleeves are thicker and require that the shaft be turned down so the repair sleeve can be slipped over it. The sleeve is heated during installation so that it has an interference fit when cooled.

Another repair method is building up the surface by welding or spraying metal onto the damaged surface and turning it back down to the original size and surface finish.

Any of these methods will require removing the output shaft from the transmission to be able to slip any kind of repair sleeve over the shaft.

Good luck!
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:58 PM   #10
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Are you sure it's the seal and not the shaft splines leaking past a loose nut? That nut should be torqued to 200 ft lbs. If it is loose trans fluid will leak out. Can you tell where the leak is coming from?
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Old 01-23-2015, 02:16 PM   #11
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I haven't taken it apart yet; just ordered the seal yesterday. The fluid is going into the rubber part of the Federal drive coupling at the rear of the tranny. When the boat is in forward gear it slings it out through the four rubber bushings in the steel housing of the coupling. BTW, does anyone know the size of the nut that holds the flange in the rear of the tranny? I'll have to purchase one to do this job. I'll know then if I just have a loose nut problem.
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Old 01-23-2015, 02:38 PM   #12
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A new trans end coupling is only $100 if that what the problem is. nut size is 1 11/16, nut is a one time use. before installing nut, fill cavity with RTV sealent then put on nut and torque. I would also use some Loctite.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:39 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info Meridian. Are you also telling me I need to locate a new nut?
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:47 PM   #14
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First find out if nut is loose, and whether the leak is coming past the nut.

You can always tighten it now, then order replacement later.
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryM View Post
Another repair method is building up the surface by welding or spraying metal onto the damaged surface and turning it back down to the original size and surface finish.
What kind of hardness do you get with this process on a prop shaft? I have some very slight grooves where the shafts pass throughout the stuffing boxes. Thinking I may need to build them back up and would like to run Gore packing to reduce/eliminate leaks. I've heard the Gore can be tough on shafts, so I'm wondering if the build-up material might be more or less resilient than the original steel.

Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
What kind of hardness do you get with this process on a prop shaft? I have some very slight grooves where the shafts pass throughout the stuffing boxes. Thinking I may need to build them back up and would like to run Gore packing to reduce/eliminate leaks. I've heard the Gore can be tough on shafts, so I'm wondering if the build-up material might be more or less resilient than the original steel.

Thanks.
Here is a link to StraightLine Marine in Fort Lauderdale where the process is described in detail. I suspect that on smaller shafts it might be more economical to simply replace the shaft. I'm sure they could advise you.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryM View Post
Here is a link to StraightLine Marine in Fort Lauderdale where the process is described in detail. I suspect that on smaller shafts it might be more economical to simply replace the shaft. I'm sure they could advise you.
Thanks, Larry!
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
I've heard the Gore can be tough on shafts,
The old school white Teflon packing was hard on shafts. Mostly because people over tightened their nuts.

Gore on the other hand is not at all hard on shafts from what I have seen in.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:56 AM   #19
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The Teflon packing was hard on shafts as it would hold fine sand or metal shaft flakes on its hard surface and score the heck out of the shaft.

With no need to run water as a lubricant modern packing is soft enough to absorb any metal flakes.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:28 AM   #20
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See Below:

ALT23320

$12.95
Quantity in Basket: none Nut Coupling with Washer Borg Warner Velvet Drive Transmission 1000-149-034


Coupling Nut with built on washer for Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1017 1018 Series including "V" Drive, and 5000 Series Transmissions. This takes an 1 11/16 socket to remove. Used on all newer style transmissions without seal holder.
OEM: 1000-149-034


ALT23321

$12.95
Quantity in Basket: none Nut Coupling Output Shaft Borg Warner Velvet Drive Transmission


Output Shaft Nut for Borg Warner Velvet Drive Transmissions. Uses a 1 1/2 inch socket IF your nut uses an 1 11/16 socket, then this is not the correct nut. See ALT23320

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