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Old 06-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #21
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Yup I "learned" about the little nut first some time ago but only a few years ago started doing it "right".

HaHa and our TF nuts will prolly mostly remain the same. But w most mechanics I lean toward doing things the best way I know how depending on how much trouble it is and how much there is to gain. In this case it's no trouble at all to do it right .... so why not.

An observation that may be worth mentioning is that w the "prop nut and cap" there is no lock/jam nut so it would seem the security of the nut (and basically the propeller) is dependent on the cotter pin. And in my opinion it's difficult to install it properly and is usually only fairly secure. If I had shaft clearance I'd go back to double nutting and having the shaft zinc ahead of the prop. However I like the prop close to the stern bearing for stability and shaft rigidity.
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:35 PM   #22
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or use a shaft brush to a transom zinc/bonding system instead........
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:41 PM   #23
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Scout came with the big nut first and a castellated nut outside. Shaft drilled for cotter key in the perfect place. I put it back the way it was and am still sleeping well at night.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:56 PM   #24
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Scout came with the big nut first and a castellated nut outside. Shaft drilled for cotter key in the perfect place. I put it back the way it was and am still sleeping well at night.
While I see that as a good setup to keep from losing a prop...not sure if it's the right engineering setup to keep the assembly very tight.

Probably works fine but sure isn't the industry standard.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:19 PM   #25
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or use a shaft brush to a transom zinc/bonding system instead........
Yep... I have that too.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:45 PM   #26
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1) How much room do you leave between the prop shaft zinc and the cutlass bearing?

2) We have a shaft brush a bit forward of the stuffing box connected to a transom plate zinc...would this 'double protect' the prop shaft if a zinc is also put on the shaft just forward of the prop?
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:48 PM   #27
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or use a shaft brush to a transom zinc/bonding system instead........
That is what we have, it has works great. No zincs on the prop or shaft.
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:29 AM   #28
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That is what we have, it has works great. No zincs on the prop or shaft
Our transom plate bolts are 6 3/4 inches apart...how big is your set-up?

Found this bit about shaft brushes;

"The Shaft Brush will provide a low resistance connection between the bonding system and the shaft. This connection should allow a properly sized and installed zinc corrosion control system to provide an adequate protection to the shaft and propeller.

An additional benefit is that zinc installed onto the shaft, will last somewhat longer. After the propeller shaft zinc is consumed, additional protection is then provided by the vessels main zinc corrosion control scheme."
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:37 AM   #29
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We have two Z3 zincs mounted on the transom, I drill 2 holes in the metal straps and bolt them on 1/2" studs mounted in the transom. The bonding wires attach to these studs on the inside of the transom.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:09 AM   #30
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Thanks for the fast reply, Mike.

Ours is similar, but have only one.

This is our first haul out, so we weren't very organized. Problem with living in a little city perched on the edge of Paradise is that shopping options are dismal. Nobody in Kitimat, or Terrace, has a collar zinc for a 1 1/4" prop shaft, Prince Rupert is a 6 hour round trip, and I have that pesky job thing that keeps getting in the way.

Considering cutting down a streamlined one, but won't until I can confirm safe distance between zinc and cutlass bearing. So far I've read from 1/4" to 1" which is quite a big difference.

Want to be in the water tomorrow!!!!
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #31
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"So far I've read from 1/4" to 1" which is quite a big difference."

I'm think'in much closer to 1". That's about exactly what Willy's got.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:33 PM   #32
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I'm think'in much closer to 1". That's about exactly what Willy's got.
How's about we average it out to about 5/8's of an inch? I didn't mount the zinc flush to the prop because it was hand cut with a hacksaw and isn't perfectly perpendicular to the shaft...good idea?

(Bonus shot of the transom plate that's connected to the shaft brush)
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:37 PM   #33
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Murray do you have a shaft seal that has water taken off the seawater elbow feed? If so 1/4" would probably be enough but I'm not sure. I would think 5/8" would be plenty for a water fed stern tube and probably for a static one too but I think it's a little questionable. Probably fine .. just don't want to put a personal blessing on it. Lets see what others think.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:22 AM   #34
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I walked through a boat yard a couple of years ago with my multimeter and checked the continuity of anodes on about 40 boats. Only two boats had any continuity at all. One had just had a new anode installed on a properly prepared shaft and one was a brand new boat that had never been in the water.

Anodes can look near new and be doing absolutely nothing. I suggest checking all your anodes for continuity no matter how good they look. You should see a maximum of 1ohm. Photo below shows a not bad looking anode showing O.L. (open line = no continuity) with the shaft.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:47 AM   #35
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I walked through a boat yard a couple of years ago with my multimeter and checked the continuity of anodes on about 40 boats. Only two boats had any continuity at all.

Photo below shows a not bad looking anode showing O.L. (open line = no continuity) with the shaft.
Photo also shows a cheap consumer grade meter set on megohms. That meter has a resolution of 1K ohms in the lower megohm range and 10K at its higher range.

It is not being used properly and is worthless for that application in any event.

That being said, you are correct that continuity between the zinc and the protected material is important. A zinc (especially a cheap Chinese zinc that may contain iron contamination) will develop an insulating oxide layer that essentially stops it from working.
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:17 AM   #36
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Photo also shows a cheap consumer grade meter set on megohms. That meter has a resolution of 1K ohms in the lower megohm range and 10K at its higher range.

It is not being used properly and is worthless for that application in any event.

That being said, you are correct that continuity between the zinc and the protected material is important. A zinc (especially a cheap Chinese zinc that may contain iron contamination) will develop an insulating oxide layer that essentially stops it from working.

You are incorrect. There is no Megohm setting. It is an autoranging meter. The megohm symbol is random when there is no continuity. You can see the "AUTO" in the top left portion of the screen.

Please also note that I never used the word "zinc" as it's hard to tell if its zinc, aluminum indium or magnesium after its scaled up. I always say "anode" uinless I am positive otherwise.

Please explain why a multimeter is wortheles in this application. Continuity is simply continuity !
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:38 PM   #37
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Murray do you have a shaft seal that has water taken off the seawater elbow feed? If so 1/4" would probably be enough but I'm not sure. I would think 5/8" would be plenty for a water fed stern tube and probably for a static one too but I think it's a little questionable. Probably fine .. just don't want to put a personal blessing on it. Lets see what others think.
What? Think I've got a fiercely aggressive law firm waiting to pounce

I'm waaaaay down at the bottom of the learning curve here, but our shaft seal looks as simple as it gets, but robust.

Here's a photo below, and the photo below that is the equally robust shaft brush;
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:12 PM   #38
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Interesting hose clamps. I'd consider changing those out, but they do appear to be functioning. The standard for that kind of set up is dual t-bolt clamps. The packing box hose looks a tad suspect as well. I only say that because I can't see multi-plys on the end cut.

It looks like you have some kind of ground that may or may not be attached at the shaft log. The yellow crimped on the white wire thingy. Might want to check and see what it is supposed to do.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:59 AM   #39
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Here's the 'after' Murray.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:51 AM   #40
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Thanks NS and Chip,

Our intentions in this first year are to make no major changes. Next year, after some actual experience and more opportunities to sponge information, we'll start swapping things out with "industry standard" parts or upgrading things.

The PO was a structural engineer, so should have had a good understanding of forces, tolerances, and appropriate components to contain and/or control said forces. Will keep my eyes on things though...

Chip, does your bilge still look that pristine!??!
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