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Old 03-13-2015, 07:00 PM   #41
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Skinny, what program are using to make these designs?
Curious as it would helpful in making a diagram of my on-board network.
I just screenshot the components and dumped it into Microsoft Paint...nothing fancy. Publisher would probably be easier but overkill for resolution.

I think I want to stay away from the polishing system. It adds expense and complication, I've decided to keep this basic with two major things in mind...keep the gen separate from the Perkins and redundancy on the filtration to maintain propulsion during a blockage. That was my takeaway from this discussion. Everything else is just gravy.

I'm OK with the price of the 3way valves and it does keep it idiot proof if I'm not the one throwing the valves. I will diagram out something with manifolds to see what it looks like. Trying to keep an open mind to everyone's suggestions.

I do plan on installing vacuum gauges on both sides no matter what I do so I can change filters before something critical happens. What is the micron rating on the FS-1242B?
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:32 PM   #42
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The fuel system on my sporty is complex, I couldnt even start to make diagrams like this for it, impressive. I have 5 tanks and hold 1000 gallons, with a cleaning system that is either 120 volt or 12 volt (we only use the 12 volt pump for transfering fuel) and can move fuel from or to any tank or feed from any tank. I dont know how many feet of 5/8 inch fuel hose this takes but its a lot. The 120 v cleaning/transfer pump is a 1/2 hp gear rotor pump, it moves lots of fuel. The transfer is set up so that it is filtered befor it gets to the pump, with a double/switchable SeaPro 300 filter system. I like the Davco stuff. I like switchable duplex filters for each engine also, with vacuum gauges. But, I'm paranoid.
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:41 PM   #43
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Also, I run my cleaning system a lot. At least once a day when I'm on the boat. I switch to a different tank everyday. I run it about 5 hours at a time. Your right, you just never know when someone will pee in your tank. I like this thread so I wont pee on it
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:45 PM   #44
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About Racor 500's... on our 40'er we used the 500's and Bounty paper towels. The regular size rolls fit and are an inexpensive option for polishing versus Racor filters. DO NOT go cheap with a lesser brand. Buy Bounty.

The larger rolls won't fit so you'll have to remove some of the towels. That's why I suggested the standard size. I borrowed a pair of 500's when I polished the fuel in Seaweed a few years back. It worked.

There's probably a reason not to opt for Bounty but it worked for us. The 40'er had a Cummins tractor motor that my dad had marinized. I wish I'd paid more attention to that!!

Oh, and sneak peek and my beautiful new acquisition: (I'm so tickled I can hardly stand myself!)

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Old 03-13-2015, 10:02 PM   #45
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You got me, Janice, what is it?
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:14 PM   #46
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You got me, Janice, what is it?

I'm thinking a muffler.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:44 PM   #47
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What is the micron rating on the FS-1242B?
27 from what I've sleuthed out. I imagine many of the fleetgaurds are similar.

I run a 10 micron downstream in my Racor.
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Old 03-14-2015, 12:19 AM   #48
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It's the manifold... newly welded and beautiful. There will be no salt water in my engine and this is one component of the cooling system. (And I'd say I drifted the thread about as far off course as possible without bringing up anchors!
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:04 AM   #49
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I will have to do some more research on filters. I'm satisfied with the price and availability to run the Fleetguards. I'm sure I can find a suitable filter, not really the issue. I want to make sure the plumbing looks good and will be reliable along with minimizing risks like sucking air into the Perkins from a leak in the genset...very good points that were brought up.
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:01 PM   #50
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Lots of opinions but for my money I'd back RT.
The only point I'd make based on my experience is to build in a small accessible sump on each tank, before you start your cruise you simply need to crack the valve and draw off a small glass full to check/remove any sediment/water.
If you want an economical centrifuge buy a CAT prefilter with water/sediment drain.
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:57 PM   #51
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build in a small accessible sump on each tank, before you start your cruise you simply need to crack the valve and draw off a small glass full to check/remove any sediment/water.
My tanks are drawing from the top and are under the saloon decking. Taking them out for modification without a good reason like they are split and leaking from old age is not really feasible. Plus having someone TIG a sump in each one would probably cost more than the entire proposed Fleetguard setup. Am I interpreting your proposal correctly? I'm picturing a bottom draw sump as being the lowest point in the tank requiring some metal work and clearancing in the hull decking.
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Old 03-15-2015, 01:58 PM   #52
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Apologies, I thought you were renewing the tanks and putting in a new system.
In the past I've careened the boat for 24 hrs once a year and then used a slow hand pump to 'Hoover' the floor of the tank at it's lowest point to remove old sediment etc.
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:53 PM   #53
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No worries, I may not have stated the entire story. This is to revise a rather numb Mainship factory fuel system that only has one return and to add some redundancy to filtration since it only has one set of filters that is shared on the same feed line for the Perkins and genset which others have stated is a bad idea.

Although this does resemble one of my diagrams earlier in the thread, I think this one works best. Note that I do not know which guages, valves, or filters I am going with. I do own some already but this is the general idea. I didn't realize it but my Nextgen 3.5 engine has an electric pump and the circuit board has a jumper spot to purge it of air. Basically that would enable me to change a filter on the genset side even and purge air using that function with the Perkins running off the opposite tank. All with minimal effort and minimizing fuel spillage.

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Old 03-15-2015, 05:46 PM   #54
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Why not have the engine feed come off one tank with parallel filters (if one plugs, switch to the second) and have the genset come off the other tank, then use a crossover? Gets rid of all those valves and the crossover will keep them level.

Tanks are just for storage, there is no need to draw off both tanks for the main engine?

Tank, valve, filter, filter, valve, engine. Return to either tank. Other tank, valve, filter, valve, return.
Valves on either side of the filter to isolate them so no air can get into the system while changing filter elements. Crossover with a valve at each tank.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:02 PM   #55
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I think that is the same number of valves as what I proposed.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:38 PM   #56
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Here's a thought guys.

Things that are less complex are less likely to fail.

Anybody thats EVER troubleshot a fuel issue on a diesel knows that one leaky connection on the suction side will cause your engine to stop in its tracks.

Might consider that.

Less connections, less valves might prove to be more reliable.

Less cool on TF, but more reliable at sea.
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Old 03-16-2015, 01:59 AM   #57
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On/off valves, not three-ways, they are only there to isolate the filters for changing and to shut off the tank if something leaks or fails.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:04 AM   #58
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This system has served me well for years filters last a long time b/c most water and junk rolls down into the "nipple sump". No air b/c air rolls back up to the tanks. In all the filters and electric pump have quite clean fuel to deal with and water and sludge is removed not left in the bottom of the tanks.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:14 AM   #59
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There is a current thread on boatdiesel about redoing an ER and fuel system. There are many ways to plumb up the system. The choices, assuming good filters and valves are being used are simple, complicated or confusing.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:17 AM   #60
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There is a current thread on boatdiesel about redoing an ER and fuel system. There are many ways to plumb up the system. The choices, assuming good filters and valves are being used are simple, complicated and confusing.
The trick, as I see it is to do the job of providing provide necessary capabilities with a minimum of parts and connections.

KISS works
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