Replacing fuel lines

[angus99]

I may need to move a couple of copper fuel lines to make room for a new house bank. I've seen this yellow tubing in newer boats and wonder what it is. Does anyone know how it holds up and its crush and leak resistance? Or is it just copper with a yellow vinyl covering?

 

[RickB]

You can buy the sleeving separately or buy tubing with it already fitted.

Copper Clad,Pipe Covers:Sleeve It Ltd - Protective Sleeving

I would just use short pieces of heat shrink to color code where you desire rather than waste money on fully sleeved tubing.

 

[angus99]

You can buy the sleeving separately or buy tubing with it already fitted.

Copper Clad,Pipe Covers:Sleeve It Ltd - Protective Sleeving

I would just use short pieces of heat shrink to color code where you desire rather than waste money on fully sleeved tubing.

Good idea. Thanks!

 

[angus99]

Still trying to find the best way to do this.

To make room from my house bank, I need to relocate two fuel lines that run side by side from the top of my port tank to the manifold. (One is the return line and the other I haven't figured out yet.) Both lines are copper, the run is less than 10 feet and they each take five 90-degree turns enroute. Their path takes them through a fairly confined space under a stout platform where my battery bank will be located, so forming them in one piece would be difficult. I suppose I could make each run in two pieces joined by flare fittings, but I'd like to minimize joints --especially ones that would be difficult to access if they leak.

Is there a flexible fuel line that would work for this application? I know copper lasts almost forever, but is there a material that is almost as good that's easier to work with?

Thanks in advance.

 

[TDunn]

You could use fuel hose. Just make sure it is type A-1. It will last a long time and is easy to install.

 

[markpierce]

I assumed the yellow coating largely functioned as a way to identify the pipe as a fuel line. Little doubt there is a better purpose. Thus are lines between fuel tanks and manifolds. Between manifolds and engine, they are rubber lines.

 

[what_barnacles]

The coating could have been for identity but maybe not so much in my boat. both the fuel lines and the hydraulic steering lines are the same color. red. I kind of think it was for corrosion. my fuel lines have zero green stuff on them under the coating after 32 years.

I plan on using soft copper tubing from lowes to make my fuel lines. Just put one of those spiral things on the tubing so you can bend it real tight without kinking it and slide it along as you route and bend the tube into place.

Im debating on whether to spray my lines with a spray can of plastikote.

 

[FF]

"I plan on using soft copper tubing from lowes to make my fuel lines. Just put one of those spiral things on the tubing so you can bend it real tight without kinking it and slide it along as you route and bend the tube into place."

These work but really tight bends are hard , and if making a long bendy fuel line it is sometimes hard to remove.

A real tubing bender from the refrigeration guys is not expensive , as usually only one sixe is needed.

Or look at Aircraft Spruce to see what thw AV folks use.

The flair tool for fuel is best from the fridge or AV folks . about $35 , but worth the extra.

 

[AusCan]

Tubing benders - very worthwhile investment for a professional looking job.


$7.49 @ Harbor Freight.

 

[angus99]

Brilliant!

Thanks, guys.

(You have Harbor--Harbour?-- Freight down under?).

 

[what_barnacles]

I bought a flare make from home depot and it bit into the tubing behind the flare leaving little cuts in it after the flare was made. Didnt look like something Id want in a high vibration application. I'll have to check into what the hvac folks use.

 

[RickB]

I'll have to check into what the hvac folks use.

With a lot of practice and a little lube you can get away with a home store tool but if you want professional quality work you will have to pay between $150 and $300 for one.

Look at the refrigeration supply houses for examples. If you know someone in the business you can save quite a pile of money but a good tool costs good money for good reasons.

 

[Bay Pelican]

We all have quirky opinions and my opposition to copper fuel lines is one of mine. I have no problem with copper lines. What I have a problem with is my lack of the skill and tools to repair a break in such a line when out of range of a mechanic that can do so. Thus I have steadily replaced copper lines with fuel hose. I can replace/repair fuel hose in the most backward location as I have the hose and tools onboard.

 

[RickB]

Thus I have steadily replaced copper lines with fuel hose. .

The rules don't apply to your boat but there is a reason why the CG limits the use of flexible fuel lines to 30 inches on commercial vessels.

If you secure copper tubing against vibration and isolate it with short pieces of flexible hose where appropriate you should never have to worry about needing field repairs.

Even an amateur job can last for years so it isn't like the plumbing has to meet space station QC standards. Buy a fairly good set of tubing tools and a few feet of soft tubing and practice practice practice ... you will soon become an expert.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I'm about to install copper tube fuel lines for my Wabasto heater. Read something here on TF about kinking and was going to go back to hose but did some experiments on my tubing bending it by hand. It passed my tests and I've resumed work on the tubing fuel lines. It's small dia and that helped w the bending tests I'm sure. I may drill a quite angled hole in the cabin bulkhead to keep the fuel line close and tight against the bulkhead both inside and out.

 

[AusCan]

Brilliant!

Thanks, guys.

(You have Harbor--Harbour?-- Freight down under?).

No - but we have Google.

I paid about $50 for my Rigid benders, but I do a lot of stainless tubing work.

 

[RickB]

I may drill a quite angled hole in the cabin bulkhead to keep the fuel line close and tight against the bulkhead both inside and out.

Close and tight makes it wear through faster.

 

[angus99]

This is very helpful. Thanks. In return I have still more questions.

First about hangers: the ones on my boat are plain copper straps. (28 years of service and no sign that anything has ever chafed through and been replaced.) Mark's Coot pictured above has rubber sleeves inside stainless (I guess) hangers. Are these useful?

Shifting gears, what about PEX for water lines? Easy to install and repair and I like the idea of freeze protection when there's an early cold snap. What say ye?

 

[Bracken45]

Angus99

Hi Angus

I am a plumber gas fitter by trade 50 years in the game copper lines are good buy a decent set of pipe benders and a flaring tool use copper saddles to fix the pipe to bulkheads or whatever.

Use heavy tape or rubber hose over the pipe before fixing with the saddle and the installation will last longer than the boat

An Australian navel ship had a fire in the engine room a few years ago that killed a number of sailors (may they rest in peace) cause was rubber fuel lines exchanged in a refit for ridged pipe fuel line diesel fuel !!

Regards

Richard

 

[psneeld]

2 things...if you have a fiberglass boat...worrying about metal or rubber hoses is an exercise in only worry. Your boat will be engulfed in fire by the time a fuel line burns all the way through....if that worried (who me with poly tanks that will go long before the lines?)...put remote fuel shutoffs in.


Pex for water lines is GREAT!!!! at least for installs and leak free operation. BickB turned me on to using the stainless clamps and the ratchet crimper. You can reach in and do installs one handed in tight spaces. I keep the extra pex under the v berth and a bag of extra clamps as modifications come up. Out of hundreds of connections through the years...I have never had a connection leak.


I did the entire boat including the salt water washdown system in a couple days.


Once I am satisfied that my whole design is what I want...I may replace a few crimp connections with the push lock kind in areas I need that kind of flexibility. I haven't found the need yet.

 

[siestakey]

This is very helpful. Thanks. In return I have still more questions.

First about hangers: the ones on my boat are plain copper straps. (28 years of service and no sign that anything has ever chafed through and been replaced.) Mark's Coot pictured above has rubber sleeves inside stainless (I guess) hangers. Are these useful?

Shifting gears, what about PEX for water lines? Easy to install and repair and I like the idea of freeze protection when there's an early cold snap. What say ye?

PEX I have used for years in houses but original used them for the manifold system ( breaker box for water control)

like this

36144 - Viega 36144 - 1/2", 14 Port Compression MANABLOC (6 hot, 8 cold)

 

[Bracken45]

psneeld

All good points sometimes we all overthink things, human nature I suppose !!

 

[RickB]

2 things...if you have a fiberglass boat...worrying about metal or rubber hoses is an exercise in only worry.

But not worrying about stuff like that would eliminate more than half of all boating related internet traffic.

 

[psneeld]

Nah...you and me could entertain each other for hundreds of posts per day dreaming up what can go wrong with our boats!

 

[angus99]

Thanks again, folks. I'm going to go with copper on the fuel lines and replace water lines with PEX as necessary, or when installing new. To be clear, I'm less concerned about burning through a fuel line than I am of a bilge full of diesel as a result of using the wrong pipe or hose.

 

[what_barnacles]

what crimp rings is used for pex in boats?

 

[psneeld]

should have been more accurate...RickB advised and I did use pinch rings...


Shop Vanguard 25-Pack 1/2-in Dia Stainless-Steel PEX Pinch Clamp Crimp Fitting at Lowes.com

 

[what_barnacles]

Ill have to look for them. Thanks.

 

[FF]

"Ill have to look for them. Thanks."

And the special tool to set them.

 

[RickB]

And the special tool to set them.

Worth every penny of the cost! It pays for itself in the first hour if your labor and aches and pains have any value at all.