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Old 06-12-2016, 10:15 PM   #21
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Is there anything besides that wooden beam holding them in place? Do the tanks lock together so they do not shift? Looks very nice and easy to tell if you have any leaks between the tanks in the future. Should last a good long time.

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Old 06-12-2016, 10:25 PM   #22
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Speaking of fuel vents, what's the best method to fix a clogged fuel vent? Currently have that problem for one of my tanks.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
Speaking of fuel vents, what's the best method to fix a clogged fuel vent? Currently have that problem for one of my tanks.
Have you considered sucking on it?

OK, if not, how about a little pressurized air after checking the vent opening. Spiders can be a problem in our area.

I gotta say that those are some very sweet tanks!! I got a chance to see the port side completed while they were still cutting on the stbd tank. When Ray mentioned something about a free lunch, that was it...we were gone before he changed his mind. (Thanks again for the lunch, Ray!)

The tanks are nested in a way so they don't shift. They're an engineering and manufacturing marvel when seen close, if you like that kind of thing...
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:10 AM   #24
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... Spiders can be a problem in our area....

Spiders?!! Talk about spiders! Feel they are overtaking the world. Am constantly (every time visiting the boat) destroying their webs. Still, their poop is winning. One good thing: they remain on the exterior.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:27 AM   #25
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Kevin,

The photo was taken before the installation was complete. Additional wood frame was installed to further secure the tanks. I'll post a finished photo in a couple of weeks.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:41 AM   #26
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Giggitoni

Nice reporting on the job. Several GBs have gone through a tank replacement. Nothing beats eyes on the issue. Did some GBs have a forever repeated design that trapped water, leaky teak decks, low use meaning old stale fuel, flat tank bottoms sitting on rotting keepers or ???

Is there a hint on what you've seen for those looking at older boats and specific areas to look at carefully to lessen chances of tank problems?
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:45 AM   #27
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Thanks Gig, I thought that might be the case. I'm just waiting for my Starboard side tank to spring a leak this gives me some good ideas for when it happens. I know it's just a matter of time as two other tanks have leaked before. One was repaired by cutting off 2 inches from the bottom of the tank and welding a new bottom on. Mine are aluminum.



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Kevin,

The photo was taken before the installation was complete. Additional wood frame was installed to further secure the tanks. I'll post a finished photo in a couple of weeks.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:25 PM   #28
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Giggitoni

Nice reporting on the job. Several GBs have gone through a tank replacement. Nothing beats eyes on the issue. Did some GBs have a forever repeated design that trapped water, leaky teak decks, low use meaning old stale fuel, flat tank bottoms sitting on rotting keepers or ???

Is there a hint on what you've seen for those looking at older boats and specific areas to look at carefully to lessen chances of tank problems?
We were well aware of the potential problems with GB fuel tanks when hunting for our boat. Our tanks checked out well during the survey; dry rust-free tops and no obvious deep rust on the outside.

I was always expecting the tanks to fail from the "inside out" due to old fuel with water condensation. I had my fuel polished a couple of times and didn't find any evidence of water. The old tanks had a bottom drain which I would carefully open from time to time. Never found any water. Never any water in my dual Racors. Kept the tanks full to minimize space for water condensation. Also, I have always kept the engine room dry by using a passive electric oil heater along with dehumidifier fans.

As it turns out, over the course of 29 years, water would collect between the black tank bottom and a strip of neoprene at each corner. It wouldn't dry out! Water would come from various sources; poorly sealed deck filler, fresh water line leak behind the tanks out of view, wet exhaust risers and piping near the tanks.... The tanks rusted from the "outside in" at those spots under the corners.

If I had known this years ago (crystal ball time!), I would have jacked the tanks up enough to remove the strip of neoprene and replaced it with a "foot" of black iron. The tanks don't need to be dampened and stray water wouldn't have a place to collect and rot away at the tanks.

It's probably a good idea to make sure the deck fuel fills are bedded properly. And, in the case of a GB with teak decks, make sure the bungs and seams are in good shape to minimize water intrusion.
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:09 AM   #29
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Well Ray, we will certainly be investigating working with American Tanks or a similar company here in the east. Just a few weeks after out first tank started leaking and its subsequent pump out, our second fuel tank started leaking as well. We had to pump out all the rest of the fuel while at the dock to avoid a big spill. So what to do when sitting at a dock with both tanks empty of diesel and not removable/replaceable without cutting them out in place as you did?

We added a 19 gallon auxiliary tank in the lazarette... an easy connection to the fuel manifold in the engine room and we are back on the water for short cruises until haulout in October. Tank removal and replacement can happen over the winter.... assuming we can afford it....

Thanks again Ray for all the info in your posts and look forward to any additional pix and technical info about the design and install.
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:53 PM   #30
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Al if I recall you changed tanks 20+ years ago and mentioned a couple years back the possibility of doing it again. Or do I have you confused with someone else?
I think you have me confused with someone else.

I hope you have me confused with someone else.

You better have me confused with someone else.

I feel bad for that someone else.
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:44 PM   #31
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Of all the things I miss I miss my mind the most Al
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:34 AM   #32
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Of all the things I miss I miss my mind the most Al
Don't worry Craig. It happens to the best of us, (like me), so we just call it a senior moment.
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Old 05-16-2017, 06:39 AM   #33
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Great Post and thanks for the great pics, our boat (42' 1982 Grand Banks) is hold up in Charleston right now, tanks being opened and inspected today. Of course I hope our water intrusion was o-rings and seals, but planning for the worst.

I talked to Vince and he quoted me around $22,000 to come out to the East Coast and do our boat.

It seems to me, if I could get someone to cut them out, I could put in a couple of smaller tanks for now. I only burn about 2 gph and don't do any extended cruising.

I wonder if a local yard would have a worker that could come and cut them up?

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Old 05-16-2017, 07:19 AM   #34
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I cut my tanks up with a sawsall. 2 - 350 gallons steel tanks, man that job sucked. I got $50 for the steel LOL.

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Old 05-16-2017, 07:26 AM   #35
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Totally off topic We get charged $140 a ton to dump steel
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:48 AM   #36
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I cut my tanks up with a sawsall. 2 - 350 gallons steel tanks, man that job sucked. I got $50 for the steel LOL.
.......
How long did it take you? Seems I could do one side at a time.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:09 PM   #37
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It took 2 (corded) saws and 35 blades or so and about 2 weeks, maybe 24+ hours total cutting time. I couldnt get myself to sit there and cut them up for 8 hours a day. Hot, loud, smelly, Man the bug goo on the bottom of the tanks was so freeking nasty. The cordless saw just sat there and peed itself when it saw the tank,

I cut sections of plates out. top front down to the stringer to take the front plate out (the plate was as wide as the baffle spacing), the the top plate section to the back wall, and the the back wall down to 2" off the bottom. I had 4 baffles so it took 5 sections of plates + the baffles as I exposed them. Once the front back and top sections were out I cut the bottom up in about the same size pieces.

You will wind up sitting in the tank as you cut the top, back and baffles out, so get several $10 pairs of jeans so you can toss them as they get nasty.

Pretty un-nerving watching sparks from the tank fall into the bug goo but it always went out. No way you could do that with a gasoline tank.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:19 PM   #38
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Totally off topic We get charged $140 a ton to dump steel
Really really off topic...

We had to live in a immigrant camp there in sydney for like 6 weeks when my dad decided to move us to oz back in the 60's. I had to import a skateboard and a schwinn bicycle from the states. I may have corrupted Austrailia forever doing that.

Loved the place.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:34 PM   #39
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How long did it take you? Seems I could do one side at a time.
We removed 2-350 gallon tanks. We cut twice on the first tank only to get the tank small enough to get it out of the opening. The first time we were a couple inches too long. It took about 20 minutes to cut a section off. The tanks started out at 9' long and had 350 gallon capacity. We used a sazall and 2 blades/cut.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/a...7&d=1474491945
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:49 PM   #40
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I wonder if a pneumatic shear would have worked any faster than a sawzall... what was the sheet metal gauge?
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