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Old 08-17-2013, 09:34 AM   #21
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Twistedtree: I'd gone to a diesel class and the instructor recommended taking out the impellers in the fall and leave them in a container full of olive oil or mineral oil.
Yes, I've seen that too, and I think it makes sense if you plan to reuse them. The main engine impellers on my boat are a huge pain in the ass to service, so I figure if I'm going to do the work, I might as well use new parts. I see it as cheap insurance against a failure which would be an even bigger pain in the ass at sea, especially if it's rough out. I just change them once a year whether they need it or not.

Another trick that many people practice, including me, it to rotate through your spares so they remain new. I carry a set of spares on the boat and when it's time to swap them, I use the spares and replace them with new.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:02 PM   #22
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Then I finally realized that an automotive piston ring compressor was just what I needed.
I bought this 10 years ago. I can't remember from who or what it's called. It's so easy to adjust and remove it isn't even funny!
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:44 PM   #23
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I am looking for a name brand Lube type, not just something that someone picks up from the local h/w for $3.95.

Can I get good recommendation from some knowledgeable, experienced folk with quite a number of these under their belt?
Some types of rubber swell up and become unuseable if coated with conventional (pertoleum-based) grease, or the white lithium stuff. This problem is fairly common with O-rings and car window seals; although I doubt that something as relatively massive as a raw-water pump impeller would show much reaction to a smear of such lube. I keep a tube of Sil-Glyde in my workshop and lubricate all rubber items with it before assembly. it is a non-petroleum grease formulated with synthetic and
natural oils. Available from Amazon at around $12 for the brand name stuff or $9 for the Napa equivalent.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:52 PM   #24
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I use a combination of silicon grease an silicon spray lube. The grease has a lot of body to it and serves to hold o-rings and other parts in place where they otherwise want to go walkabout. And I use the spray on the impeller itself. Cummins is explicit in their work shop manual that petroleum lubes should not be used.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:54 PM   #25
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Think of it as head vs volume. My guess would be that having more impellor vanes would allow a higher head pressure, with lower volume. More vanes take up the space that water should occupy. Also a factor is the center hub diameter. Larger diameter hub will allow less water volume but higher head.
Im not so sure of your theory, except that less vanes might mean more volume. assuming your impellor housing is 'universal' (which it probably is not), if you can find pump curves for each impellor, you will be able to tell the difference at any given rpm.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:03 PM   #26
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Sorry folks, Slightly off topic but, I am having trouble getting a good read on what I should use as an Impeller Lube.(Vaseline? KY gel?)
I researched this a bit before installing this last impeller. Water based lube was recommended: KY and the like. Vaseline and other petroleum based lubes were a big No-No from all the manufacturers that I looked into.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:42 AM   #27
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:04 AM   #28
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"I am looking for a name brand Lube type, not just something that someone picks up from the local h/w for $3.95.

Can I get good recommendation from some knowledgeable, experienced folk with quite a number of these under their belt?"


I have been using KY gel for 15 years on three engines and have no reason to change. It, unlike Vaseline, is not petroleum based.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #29
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Jabsco doesn't care what type of grease you use. The grease is washed off the impeller in the first few minutes of running.

Here is a link to the Jabsco catalog dealing with replacement impellers. If you scroll down to the last couple of pages, there is a good trouble shooting guide that can help you figure out why an impeller failed and how to avoid the problem.

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/file...eplacement.pdf
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:38 PM   #30
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Only problem I've ever heard with Globe impellers is when used on the Hino diesels the center will spin out. I had always heard good things about them but the info I got off the Bayliner site indicated that owners that had used them had the same problem, after that I decided to stick with Jabsco.
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:48 PM   #31
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Interesting, wonder if Hino/Toyota built their own pump housings and didn't get the specs quite the same?

My Perkins actually has a Jabsco pump on it, driven with a Love-Joy type coupling.

My last two Globe impellers were installed in Johnson pumps with no issues. I hope my Jabsco Pump does OK with one, tomorrow I'm going to order an 8 blade unless Globe gets back to me with a reason that it makes more sense to use the 10 blade.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:34 PM   #32
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Hino uses a Kashiyama (sp) pump, only engine maker that I've heard of that uses them.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:03 PM   #33
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Has anyone tried this.

Works for me.

Welcome to Speedseal Safety Covers


www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html


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Old 08-18-2013, 10:36 PM   #34
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My boat has them from the PO. The jury is still out. I just changed impellers. One engine went fine with finger tight and no leaks. The other needed an old paper gasket and pliers. They say no gaskets but there is an O ring that seems very fragile and doesn't seem to stay in the groove so not sure if it gets misplaced when installing. The knobs seem like a good idea, especially on the starboard engine where the pump is nearly out of reach. But you could use thumb screws or something on the traditional covers using more than four screws.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:31 PM   #35
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Back to the 8 or 10 vanes, I have a small boat (350 chev inboard, 1977 jabsco) used mostly for cold weather striper fishing that was fine with the 8 vanes in cold weather but wanted to overheat in the summer. In going through my used spare box I discovered an old 10 vane, and replaced the impeller with a new 10 vane which seems to have corrected the summer overheating problem. In checking the original jabsco part numbers, the pump originally came with a 10 vane. I also could not find any data on the pressure flow differences for the different impellers.

I have always used about any available oil as an assembly lubricant and assumed that it got "washed" off pretty quickly in use - so that water became the only lubricant. Jabsco advertises their industrial versions for slurry applications, so they are not overly sensitive to lubrication in the normal sense if you don't run them dry.

I have seen the impellers take a set when left several months without running. The issue is how closely the pump is sized for the cooling requirements which may be more a function of other things like heat exchanger fouling. My small boat is currently layed up and because I had the pump apart I chose not to put the new impeller back in it until I get ready to use it again. I would shy away from any impeller that had cracks, although I don't know that an impeller that had some set would bother me as long as the cooling was OK.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:32 PM   #36
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Use high quality thumb screws if you do. Beware of plastic knurled with SS. Do you need to know how I know this?
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:02 AM   #37
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A bit hard to tell in this photo, but these screws are SS knurled allen-head screws. I find them much easier to start in the threaded hole and tighten than the phillips- or slot-head styles. This modification provides me with much of the functionality of the SpeedSeal kit at a fraction of the cost.

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Old 08-19-2013, 12:42 AM   #38
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My raw water pump is not that easy to see because Yanmar thoughtfully buried it from view on my 4JH3. I pretty much have to work by feel, or use an inspection mirror. After the first impeller change, I started looking for a way to make it an easier job. I discovered Speedseal and decided to give it a try.

I am very happy with the Speedseal Life which has the enhanced end plate with replaceable bearing discs.

Welcome to Speedseal Safety Covers

Even with the extra parts, it is easy to service, and the large knurled thumbscrews make it a breeze to change.

I also purchased this impeller removal tool from Bay Shore Marine.

IMPELLER PULLER

Impeller service now takes just minutes.

As for lubes, Johnson Pump and Volvo recommend and sell glycerine exclusively. Since Johnson is OEM on so many engines, I assume this is a safe choice. That said, Jabsco, Yanmar and Mercruiser simply say to 'grease' the impeller when installing. I suspect what is most important is that the impeller is not dry when starting for the first time.

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Old 08-19-2013, 02:34 AM   #39
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IMO, the lubricant is mainly to ease installation. It would also lubricate the impeller for the first 10 seconds if it was dry, but I doubt if running dry for that period of time would do much harm.

What may be often be overlooked is the potential for a complete or partial air lock after doing any work on the cooling system.
This can interupt the raw water flow allowing the impellor to run dry intermittently, shortening impeller life.

Having a raw water cooled system, I see an immediate effect on my temperature gauge when this happens (all too often). The temperature guage is all over the place because the thermostat cant keep up with the change.

On a fresh water cooled engine, the effect on engine temperature would be much less obvious, as the heat exchanger acts as a buffer. An intermittent raw water flow may go unoticed.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:39 AM   #40
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I have somewhat unbelievable news. I just got off the phone with an Engineer (Brian Adams) at Globe. They have NO data about ANY impeller's performance! They don't test any of them. Manufacturers give them a call wanting them to offer a Globe impeller option on a particular application and they manufacture an impeller with the same dimensions as the "stock" impeller! No testing is done! (I'm sure they test for their warranty specs though). The best I could get was that they never advise going to a lesser number on any application. He is supposed to call me back (computers down) when he can look up the drawing specs of the two and give me the difference in blade length-if any. If relatively close, I think I'm going to try a 10 blade. Time will tell.

So far as long term storage-does anyone here do the talc in an airtight ziploc bag method? I found several references to storing the impeller this way. They don't even recommend keeping them in the factory 2 piece vacuum formed package since its not airtight.
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