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Old 02-13-2018, 06:47 AM   #1
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Racor on small outboard?

Wife and friend stranded on dinghy w/20hp Yamaha this past weekend due to water in gas. I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again. OK. First thing is to figure out how it got in and fix that. After that, is adding the smallest Racor ok with a 20hp outboard? Mount it on the transom, could see the fuel, drain it to check. If so I assume the smallest one there is? Any issues with fuel flow or restriction? Seems overkill to me but....I wasn't stranded. Happy Admiral happy boat.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:22 AM   #2
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I know a few who have mounted similar filter units with 15 hp engines. No problems.
I have an inline type filter on my 2 stroke.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:27 AM   #3
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This one is fairly new, but has been growing in popularity with the outboard gang. No metal.

https://www.jmesales.com/racor-snapp...xoCd6IQAvD_BwE
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:30 AM   #4
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I'd do it, for our circumstance. Mostly to deal with ethanol gas, where we live.

Happens we switched outboards to a fuel-injected model and haven't had ethanol-related problems yet... bit if it happens, I'll install an external Racor fuel-water separator.

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Old 02-13-2018, 07:30 AM   #5
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They sell filters specifically for gas outboards. I would go that route vs. typical in engine room racor for diesel only.

Something like this:

https://www.defender.com/product3.js...7510&id=133730
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:38 AM   #6
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This is the one I'd been thinking of:

http://ph.parker.com/us/17583/en/sna...eparator-racor

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Old 02-13-2018, 07:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealife View Post
They sell filters specifically for gas outboards. I would go that route vs. typical in engine room racor for diesel only.

Something like this:

https://www.defender.com/product3.js...7510&id=133730
I had this on my Aquasport with a Yamaha 2 stroke and it worked well.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver dave View Post
This one is fairly new, but has been growing in popularity with the outboard gang. No metal.

https://www.jmesales.com/racor-snapp...xoCd6IQAvD_BwE
That's hawt.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:56 AM   #9
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I use the filter posted by DiverDan. It works great and is easy maintain. No more fouled plugs, etc. I use it on an older 2-stroke 15hp Johnson.

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Old 02-13-2018, 10:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstbase View Post
Wife and friend stranded on dinghy w/20hp Yamaha this past weekend due to water in gas. I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again. OK. First thing is to figure out how it got in and fix that. After that, is adding the smallest Racor ok with a 20hp outboard? Mount it on the transom, could see the fuel, drain it to check. If so I assume the smallest one there is? Any issues with fuel flow or restriction? Seems overkill to me but....I wasn't stranded. Happy Admiral happy boat.
I installed this one for my Yamaha 9.9 kicker. Max flow rate is 30gph.

https://www.defender.com/product3.js...7510&id=569700
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:51 AM   #11
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"I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again."

A set of OARS is the long term solution as too much can go wrong with any engine for "NEVER" to be realistic.

I would obtain a small bronze gas water seperiator and cleanable filter as was used on gasoline boats in the past.

This can be drained to remove water from our ethanol poisoned gas , or opened and cleaned if trash is in the fuel.

They were made by W- C in the past , no idea where to look today.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:24 AM   #12
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like this Perko?



I'm kind of an old school bronze guy too. But, you might need to dig around ebay to find this early '80s stuff. I recall these having a smallish phenolic element inside.
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:08 AM   #13
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"I recall these having a smallish phenolic element inside."

Which can easily be cleaned , instead of discarded.

Pretty hard to keep a box of filters in good shape in a condom boat.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
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"I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again."

A set of OARS is the long term solution as too much can go wrong with any engine for "NEVER" to be realistic.
Yep, a set of oars is how they got back and "never" is somewhat a laughable word. Thanks for the ideas and letting me know I would not be the only guy running around in an inflatable dinghy with an externally mounted Racor. Had not seen the SNAPP Racor. Will do something with one of these. First task is to find out how the water got in. Hadn't had any issues until I left the dinghy uncovered for 10 days or so during which it rained some. Getting in somewhere. May replace the entire fuel feed system, tank and hoses as they are looking tired and old. Not very encouraged by my searches for a new 6 gallon fuel tank ie Moeller or similar. Wow, talk about bad ratings and complaints. Got to be somebody out there making a good quality fuel tank with no leaks.
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:59 AM   #15
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My 3 gallon Attwood tank has been floating around in the dingy several times from rain or wave slop...no water yet.
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:11 AM   #16
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"Got to be somebody out there making a good quality fuel tank with no leaks."

Go to an antique boat show and purchase a metal 3 or 6 gallon tank in great condition.

Yes its old , but on some the built in fuel plunger pump is still working, expect to pay about $50. or so.

Good hunting,,
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:58 PM   #17
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The older OMC metal tanks are fairly bulletproof. But they leave a rust rectangle where they sat

FF. fuel plunger? U got me on that one. What years??
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:46 PM   #18
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I used to have a Yamaha F40 carb version that had tons of fuel problems. I pre-emptively installed a spin on remote fuel filter when I mounted the new engine. One year thought I stabilized the fuel but forgot. The carb bowls were full of what looked like petroleum jelly. After cleaning that up, the bottom carb low speed jet still kept clogging. Turns out the remote filter head threaded nipple that the cartridge threads to had RUSTED severely and was sending an endless stream of rust particles to the engine. You would either have to stand on your head or remove the head the see the rust. Removed the remote and went back to on engine filter and the problems went away.
The remote filter was bought at Walmart. Aqua-something brand. Bottom line, use a quality brand.
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:15 AM   #19
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"FF. fuel plunger? U got me on that one. What years??"

OLD! 50'sor 60's before the rubber squeeze bulb in the fuel line was used.

****
Folks have to remember ALL filters , fuel gas or diesel and lube oil are simple made of stamped sheet steel , as they are service items that are not expected to have a huge shelf life.

A vacuum bag is required if you purchase case lots and want to use them in a year or two.
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Old 02-20-2018, 07:36 AM   #20
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My Yamaha 15HP 4 stroke is prone to carburetor issues, ethanol is a direct cause of those problems. I only need to run a bit of ethanol fuel and I can be assured I will be tearing down the carb. This is a 15 yr old O/B, and wasn't designed to use ethanol. I've torn the carb down so many times that I've lost track, but I can do it in about 40 minutes.

The phase separation that occurs in ethanol creates an orange snot-like precipitate that occludes the low-speed jet and the engine won't idle, it won't transition from idle to operation without balking or stalling, and it always happens at the worst time possible. I avoid ethanol fuel like the plague and that helps. It seems some engines are more susceptible to the woes of crap fuel, older ones more so. As a full-time cruiser, I've had lots of experience with it!

I have installed a Racor 025-RAC-02 on the recommendation of Stephen Lance (of Defender). This 10 micron filter has a aquablock element that prevents the phase separated snot from getting to the engine. It's not 100% foolproof, so it may not satisfy the "NEVER" requirement of the OP, but it's been effective. I tried using stabilizer in ethanol fuel with very limited success. Best approach is to avoid ethanol altogether, entirely possible except in MD, where the bureaucrat wonks have determined they know better about things mechanical than anyone.
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