Racor on small outboard?

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firstbase

firstbase

Guru
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
1,644
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Black Eyed Susan
Vessel Make
Grand Banks 42' Classic
Wife and friend stranded on dinghy w/20hp Yamaha this past weekend due to water in gas. I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again. OK. First thing is to figure out how it got in and fix that. After that, is adding the smallest Racor ok with a 20hp outboard? Mount it on the transom, could see the fuel, drain it to check. If so I assume the smallest one there is? Any issues with fuel flow or restriction? Seems overkill to me but....I wasn't stranded. Happy Admiral happy boat.
 
I know a few who have mounted similar filter units with 15 hp engines. No problems.
I have an inline type filter on my 2 stroke.
 
I'd do it, for our circumstance. Mostly to deal with ethanol gas, where we live.

Happens we switched outboards to a fuel-injected model and haven't had ethanol-related problems yet... bit if it happens, I'll install an external Racor fuel-water separator.

-Chris
 
I use the filter posted by DiverDan. It works great and is easy maintain. No more fouled plugs, etc. I use it on an older 2-stroke 15hp Johnson. :thumb:

Cheers, Bill
 
firstbase said:
Wife and friend stranded on dinghy w/20hp Yamaha this past weekend due to water in gas. I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again. OK. First thing is to figure out how it got in and fix that. After that, is adding the smallest Racor ok with a 20hp outboard? Mount it on the transom, could see the fuel, drain it to check. If so I assume the smallest one there is? Any issues with fuel flow or restriction? Seems overkill to me but....I wasn't stranded. Happy Admiral happy boat.
Click to expand...
I installed this one for my Yamaha 9.9 kicker. Max flow rate is 30gph.

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510&id=569700
 
"I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again."

A set of OARS is the long term solution as too much can go wrong with any engine for "NEVER" to be realistic.

I would obtain a small bronze gas water seperiator and cleanable filter as was used on gasoline boats in the past.

This can be drained to remove water from our ethanol poisoned gas , or opened and cleaned if trash is in the fuel.

They were made by W- C in the past , no idea where to look today.
 
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like this Perko?

perkofuelfilter.jpg


I'm kind of an old school bronze guy too. But, you might need to dig around ebay to find this early '80s stuff. I recall these having a smallish phenolic element inside.
 
"I recall these having a smallish phenolic element inside."

Which can easily be cleaned , instead of discarded.

Pretty hard to keep a box of filters in good shape in a condom boat.
 
FF said:
"I have been told to fix this so it NEVER happens again."

A set of OARS is the long term solution as too much can go wrong with any engine for "NEVER" to be realistic.
Click to expand...

Yep, a set of oars is how they got back and "never" is somewhat a laughable word. Thanks for the ideas and letting me know I would not be the only guy running around in an inflatable dinghy with an externally mounted Racor. Had not seen the SNAPP Racor. Will do something with one of these. First task is to find out how the water got in. Hadn't had any issues until I left the dinghy uncovered for 10 days or so during which it rained some. Getting in somewhere. May replace the entire fuel feed system, tank and hoses as they are looking tired and old. Not very encouraged by my searches for a new 6 gallon fuel tank ie Moeller or similar. Wow, talk about bad ratings and complaints. Got to be somebody out there making a good quality fuel tank with no leaks.
 
My 3 gallon Attwood tank has been floating around in the dingy several times from rain or wave slop...no water yet.
 
"Got to be somebody out there making a good quality fuel tank with no leaks."

Go to an antique boat show and purchase a metal 3 or 6 gallon tank in great condition.

Yes its old , but on some the built in fuel plunger pump is still working, expect to pay about $50. or so.

Good hunting,,
 
The older OMC metal tanks are fairly bulletproof. But they leave a rust rectangle where they sat[emoji848]

FF. fuel plunger? U got me on that one. What years??
 
I used to have a Yamaha F40 carb version that had tons of fuel problems. I pre-emptively installed a spin on remote fuel filter when I mounted the new engine. One year thought I stabilized the fuel but forgot. The carb bowls were full of what looked like petroleum jelly. After cleaning that up, the bottom carb low speed jet still kept clogging. Turns out the remote filter head threaded nipple that the cartridge threads to had RUSTED severely and was sending an endless stream of rust particles to the engine. You would either have to stand on your head or remove the head the see the rust. Removed the remote and went back to on engine filter and the problems went away.
The remote filter was bought at Walmart. Aqua-something brand. Bottom line, use a quality brand.
 
"FF. fuel plunger? U got me on that one. What years??"

OLD! 50'sor 60's before the rubber squeeze bulb in the fuel line was used.

****
Folks have to remember ALL filters , fuel gas or diesel and lube oil are simple made of stamped sheet steel , as they are service items that are not expected to have a huge shelf life.

A vacuum bag is required if you purchase case lots and want to use them in a year or two.
 
My Yamaha 15HP 4 stroke is prone to carburetor issues, ethanol is a direct cause of those problems. I only need to run a bit of ethanol fuel and I can be assured I will be tearing down the carb. This is a 15 yr old O/B, and wasn't designed to use ethanol. I've torn the carb down so many times that I've lost track, but I can do it in about 40 minutes.

The phase separation that occurs in ethanol creates an orange snot-like precipitate that occludes the low-speed jet and the engine won't idle, it won't transition from idle to operation without balking or stalling, and it always happens at the worst time possible. I avoid ethanol fuel like the plague and that helps. It seems some engines are more susceptible to the woes of crap fuel, older ones more so. As a full-time cruiser, I've had lots of experience with it!

I have installed a Racor 025-RAC-02 on the recommendation of Stephen Lance (of Defender). This 10 micron filter has a aquablock element that prevents the phase separated snot from getting to the engine. It's not 100% foolproof, so it may not satisfy the "NEVER" requirement of the OP, but it's been effective. I tried using stabilizer in ethanol fuel with very limited success. Best approach is to avoid ethanol altogether, entirely possible except in MD, where the bureaucrat wonks have determined they know better about things mechanical than anyone.
 

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Maerin said:
My Yamaha 15HP 4 stroke is prone to carburetor issues, ethanol is a direct cause of those problems. I only need to run a bit of ethanol fuel and I can be assured I will be tearing down the carb. This is a 15 yr old O/B, and wasn't designed to use ethanol. I've torn the carb down so many times that I've lost track, but I can do it in about 40 minutes.

The phase separation that occurs in ethanol creates an orange snot-like precipitate that occludes the low-speed jet and the engine won't idle, it won't transition from idle to operation without balking or stalling, and it always happens at the worst time possible. I avoid ethanol fuel like the plague and that helps. It seems some engines are more susceptible to the woes of crap fuel, older ones more so. As a full-time cruiser, I've had lots of experience with it!

I have installed a Racor 025-RAC-02 on the recommendation of Stephen Lance (of Defender). This 10 micron filter has a aquablock element that prevents the phase separated snot from getting to the engine. It's not 100% foolproof, so it may not satisfy the "NEVER" requirement of the OP, but it's been effective. I tried using stabilizer in ethanol fuel with very limited success. Best approach is to avoid ethanol altogether, entirely possible except in MD.
Click to expand...

Perfect for small OBs! :thumb:
 
"Best approach is to avoid ethanol altogether, entirely possible except in MD"

A different approach might copy what some racers do.

A 5 gallon glass jug with 4 gal of gasoline and ADD 2 quarts of water.

Let it sit O'nite and syphon all the fuel above the visible water line.

The ethanol and water it attracts will be at the jug bottom ,

send it to algore for disposal?
 
OP here, opened up carb, no water just gas. Removed onboard filter, no water just gas. Siphoned half a gallon out of the bottom of my gas tank and got about a teaspoon of water out. Put it back on, pumped it with the bulb to refill and .... no start. Carb was cleaned and rebuilt less then 2 hours of engine time ago. I don't think I have a water problem I think I have a spark problem. Not sure as I am now officially out of my league. I hate outboards!!!
 
firstbase said:
OP here, opened up carb, no water just gas. Removed onboard filter, no water just gas. Siphoned half a gallon out of the bottom of my gas tank and got about a teaspoon of water out. Put it back on, pumped it with the bulb to refill and .... no start. Carb was cleaned and rebuilt less then 2 hours of engine time ago. I don't think I have a water problem I think I have a spark problem. Not sure as I am now officially out of my league. I hate outboards!!!
Click to expand...



The kill switch comes to mind
 
Well, after skimming the previous 23 posts, I can assure you that I've been more stupid and cost myself more money and aggravation than any of you.

At the end of the season, I dumped the contents of the fuel tank and spare fuel tank for our 4stroke Honda into the '06 Volvo. The car ran fine for about a half block before commencing to miss and then quit totally after another half block.

Had it towed to the dealership, diagnosed with LOTS of water in the gas tank. $1200. and a new gas pump/filter/level sensor unit later, the car ran poorly (and check engine light lit) for another tank of gas. Now fine.

Thinking I'll haywire the soiled pump to a water separator filter and clean my next season's leftover gas (before putting it into my wife's VW).
 
Yes, thought of that but don't know how to trouble shoot it. It's a 4 year old motor lightly used and completely serviced a couple of weeks ago. Was working well until it quit in the middle of a trip. Quit dead. No sputtering, loss of RPMS, nothing. Just went dead. Tried taking kill switch off and then back on, no difference. Unless I can figure out I have the mechanic coming out in a week or so. Would mess around with it more this weekend but really have no idea how to troubleshoot further. Did I mention that I hate outboards? they get near me and magical things happen. Always have.
 
Me thinks a high powered elec trolling motor will be powering our dink on the Loop:thumb: As the Bard said "though she be but little, she is fierce"! Describes my wife and my trolling motor:hide:
 
Sudden stops are consistent with parts like stators and ignition modules. Did u do a basic pull a plug and look for spark?
 
I tried but couldn't find anyone stupid enough to hold the plug while I cranked. :)
 
firstbase said:
OP here, opened up carb, no water just gas. Removed onboard filter, no water just gas. Siphoned half a gallon out of the bottom of my gas tank and got about a teaspoon of water out. Put it back on, pumped it with the bulb to refill and .... no start. Carb was cleaned and rebuilt less then 2 hours of engine time ago. I don't think I have a water problem I think I have a spark problem. Not sure as I am now officially out of my league. I hate outboards!!!
Click to expand...

Your idle jets could be fouled with ethanol snot. It can be nearly impossible to detect visually, and you can't correct that by draining the carb. If they're fouled, it won't start. If you see orange in any part of the fuel system, gotta get rid of ALL of it. You must disassemble the carb, remove the jets and clean them with carburetor cleaner and visually inspect them to insure there's no blockage. Re-assemble, flush the fuel lines, get clean, NON-ETHANOL fuel and try again. Don't go to the trouble to R&R/clean the carb if you're going to put the same fuel through it. :banghead: If you're using ethanol, expect problems.

If a 2 stroke, the plugs could be fouled, pull one, ground it, connect the wire and pull the starter. You should see spark on the plug electrode. You should smell fuel in the plug hole. A gasoline engine must have air, fuel, compression, ignition to run.
 
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