Racor on small outboard?

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I tried but couldn't find anyone stupid enough to hold the plug while I cranked. :)

If you have them hold it against something grounded, it won't jangle them....
(I think, anyway) :eek:

Really, ground it, if you have a jumper cable, clamp the plug in the cable and ground the other end. Don't be such a wuss! It'll only hurt a short time.
 
I tried but couldn't find anyone stupid enough to hold the plug while I cranked. :)
Just don't tell them what will happen if they dont hold it tight to the head.:whistling:
BTW the Yam carb has TWO jets per carb. The high speed jet is easily seen. The low speed jet is under a black rubber plug. The diameter of the orifice is about the thickness of a fine wire brush bristle.
 
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"Carb was cleaned and rebuilt less then 2 hours of engine time ago. I don't think I have a water problem I think I have a spark problem. Not sure as I am now officially out of my league. I hate outboards!!!"

Simplest trouble shoot is a shot of starting fluid (ether) in the carb,

If it fires for a simple Varoom, its the fuel system.

If nothing happens , probably the ignition,

Crude but its a place to start.
 
Just don't tell them what will happen if they dont hold it tight to the head.:whistling:
BTW the Yam carb has TWO jets per carb. The high speed jet is easily seen. The low speed jet is under a black rubber plug. The diameter of the orifice is about the thickness of a fine wire brush bristle.

Crew is a little leery of me ever since that "Hey, can you test this 9V battery? Just put it on your tongue." deal....

Carb was broken down and cleaned, rebuilt, less than two hours of running time ago. Engine sat unused prior to us purchasing the boat and we didn't use it after. Went too long and carb got gummed up. Ran well for two hours or so since I had the service done.
 
"Carb was cleaned and rebuilt less then 2 hours of engine time ago. I don't think I have a water problem I think I have a spark problem. Not sure as I am now officially out of my league. I hate outboards!!!"

Simplest trouble shoot is a shot of starting fluid (ether) in the carb,

If it fires for a simple Varoom, its the fuel system.

If nothing happens , probably the ignition,

Crude but its a place to start.


So take off the fuel line to the carb and spray the fluid in? Sorry for ignorance. Can't remove the air filter and open up the butterfly valve like on a 1970 Challenger..!
 
So take off the fuel line to the carb and spray the fluid in? Sorry for ignorance. Can't remove the air filter and open up the butterfly valve like on a 1970 Challenger..!

No shortcuts here. If you R&R'd the carb and cleaned it, then put it back into service using the same fuel that was in the system, you completed what is known as "practice". Now you can do it again, in less time, minus the shortcuts! BONUS!! If the low speed jet is fouled (likely) no amount of magical potion will clear it, you'll have to repeat the cleaning and make sure ALL the old gas is gone, and start with FRESH, non-ethanol fuel. Any time you introduce ethanol into the system, expect problems. My Yamaha is a 2003, it DOES NOT tolerate ethanol. ETHANOL= PROBLEMS.

You can find non-ethanol fuel- google "real gas". Any small engine benefits from avoiding ethanol, it's worth the effort to obtain non-ethanol product in just the saved maintenance headaches as you're already learning. If your use is irregular, it exacerbates the problem. Ethanol that's idle for weeks will absorb moisture, phase separate and form orange snot. Just a pinprick amount of it clinging to the wall of the idle jet is all that's needed to create havoc in the carburetor's ability to deliver fuel properly.

If you possess basic mechanical skills and can remember a few steps, you can do the carburetor cleaning. It's not rocket science, but it must be done meticulously with no shortcuts. Let us know the vintage of your Yamaha. I could offer detailed instructions if the carb is close to mine. Armed with that knowledge, you're at least not out of business when it happens, since the carb can be torn down, cleaned, and reassembled without new parts if done carefully.
 
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No shortcuts here. If you R&R'd the carb and cleaned it, then put it back into service using the same fuel that was in the system, you completed what is known as "practice". Now you can do it again, in less time, minus the shortcuts! BONUS!! If the low speed jet is fouled (likely) no amount of magical potion will clear it, you'll have to repeat the cleaning and make sure ALL the old gas is gone, and start with FRESH, non-ethanol fuel. Any time you introduce ethanol into the system, expect problems. My Yamaha is a 2003, it DOES NOT tolerate ethanol. ETHANOL= PROBLEMS.

You can find non-ethanol fuel- google "real gas". Any small engine benefits from avoiding ethanol, it's worth the effort to obtain non-ethanol product in just the saved maintenance headaches as you're already learning. If your use is irregular, it exacerbates the problem. Ethanol that's idle for weeks will absorb moisture, phase separate and form orange snot. Just a pinprick amount of it clinging to the wall of the idle jet is all that's needed to create havoc in the carburetor's ability to deliver fuel properly.

If you possess basic mechanical skills and can remember a few steps, you can do the carburetor cleaning. It's not rocket science, but it must be done meticulously with no shortcuts. Let us know the vintage of your Yamaha. I could offer detailed instructions if the carb is close to mine. Armed with that knowledge, you're at least not out of business when it happens, since the carb can be torn down, cleaned, and reassembled without new parts if done carefully.

If your local chevron sells 94 gas buy it.
If you can only find 91, it may or may not have some Ethanol in it, Chevron is most likely to have Eth free at the 91 pump, but no guarantees.
When all else fails, any parts store, even Walmart, will carry little cans of ethanol free at silly high prices, but still better than tearing down your carb every time you use it.

The difference when getting a fuel injected 4 stroke is remarkable. They will run on gas that contains some ethanol, though I have never resorted to regular gas (10 to 15%) sometimes all I can find at the marine stations is "Mid-grade" which I assume is 89 octane, and likely has 5 to 10% Ethanol. I still buy 94 when I can and 91 most of the time for my 40 honda, Weed Whacker, Mower, etc. Keeps them running without teardowns.
 
When mechanic cleaned carb I mentioned replacing gas and he said no, gas is fine. I should have gone with my brain which told me gas in the lines may be bad....hmmm... but I didn't. PO told me he used nothing but non-ethanol gas and I believe him based on other things. Issue is that it has been sitting for a year at least before we got around to using the dinghy. Been wrapped in learning other things and didn't have the need or urge to unload the dinghy and get it going. Probably should have unloaded the dinghy and got it going. Will see. Oh, it is a Yamaha 20hp 4 stroke. PO bought it new in 2013 but the date on the engine says 2011. guess it sat at the dealer for a while.
 
"Issue is that it has been sitting for a year at least before we got around to using the dinghy"

Good gas, the non ethanol stuff will still evaporate from the fuel system and leave a varnish like deposit in time.

IF you can get it to operate a bit Sea Foam might dissolve the gunk, might not.

***

Many outboard carbs have a flame guard or something similar covering the air inlet.

A small shot of starting fluid near enough will get sucked in to let the engine fart a few times to decide if the ignition or fuel is the cause of a no start.

Starting fluid can also go down a straw , to get a hard to reach carb.
 
Thanks FF. Saw the gunk in the carb when it was cleaned a few weeks ago. What is puzzling me on this go around is that the onboard filter, replaced previously, is squeeky clean. No signs of anything from the gas flowing through it and what came out when I took it off was pure gas, no water. Don't know how the carb would get gunked up again with some sign in the filter.
 

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