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Old 09-10-2014, 12:04 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. d2. Dag-nabbit! Now ya done it. Some "bright light" at ABYC is going to see your idea, mandate it into law and we're ALL screwed. Thanks a LOT pal...
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:05 PM   #22
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No, that one was DOT approved.
Touche'.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:10 PM   #23
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Yep... next is airbags... and if they stay inflated...maybe they can relax a bunch of other things if we can't sink.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:57 PM   #24
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Superfix Cushioned Pipe Clamps by CADDY - Pipe Hangers and Clamps at Zoro

For 4" they are $8 each. Use rubber mounts to minimize the transmission of vibration....

AutoSpeed - Designing Rubber Mounts
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:12 PM   #25
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Well, after complaining about the previous tie wraps - I decided to use them again.

This time, done better. A pair of 175 lb. tensile strength zip ties per support location, each through a Weldmount AT-5 tie-wrap holder rated at 150 lbs. Wrapped each support section in some red rubber to keep abrasion at bay.

Made for a very neat and snug install, with nothing dangling to interfere with stowage. And, the best part...$10 and 20 minutes.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:40 PM   #26
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Neat, clean, I think we have a winner!
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:54 PM   #27
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Didn't really read this one earlier, but I used a Vetus LT 102 gooseneck on my little nordic tug when I repowered.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:28 PM   #28
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I worked on a new genny exhaust system last year. Never thought to ask for exhaust hanging ideas. I tend to do stuff to suit my self anyway. In my case, I used 3/32 stainless cable, and run it thru really thick 1/2" rubber hose to protect the exhaust hose from abrasion. I hung the cable from stainless eye bolts attached to the cockpit floor. It was in a hard place to get my rather rotund body and still have both hands free. I attached the eye bolts, then clamped one end of the cable to the eye bolt. Then fed the other end of the cable to about a foot of hose, looped around the exhaust hose, then took the free end looped thru the eyebolt and clamped by hand. this gave me a firm enough clamp to let go without it slipping while I tightened the cable clamp with a wrench. I't took a bit of hardware, but all was available at my local True Value Hardware store.
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:37 AM   #29
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I hate to be a spoil sport but I will. From the picture you have shown I wonder if you have not created a situation where the engine will be backfilled with exhaust water from the riser at some point.

The hose, the section from the engine that appears to rise to the overhead, could fill with water to the high point where you have strapped the hose to the overhead.

That would be OK IF the riser [dry] itself rose to that height, then injected the water although even that would require a drop to ensure water cannot back up, and then follow the overhead on a small drop to close to the transom exhaust port where it could finish the drop.

Look up and read the articles, more than one, but don't ignore them yet.
I hope I'm wrong but be sure or it could cost you your engine.

http://www.sbmar.com/tonys-tips.php#exhaust
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:07 AM   #30
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Is that your fuel tank running athwartships? And if so what is the capacity?
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:16 AM   #31
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From the picture you have shown I wonder if you have not created a situation where the engine will be backfilled with exhaust water from the riser at some point.
Whoa - dunno. That's way beyond my pay grade. I simply secured it back to the same location it's been since 1988.

With the exhaust exiting below the water line (just off picture, to the left), that riser seems necessary - no? And, not that something couldn't slip by them...but I've two surveys for the boat, including an engine survey by a highly recommended Yanmar mechanic - and neither mentioned a concern other than securing the hose. Still, I'll peruse those docs you linked to and ask my Yanmar guy - thanks.

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Is that your fuel tank running athwartships? And if so what is the capacity?
Yup - 75 gallons, reportedly. Most I've put in was about 40 gallons, and the sight gauge showed roughly 50% full before doing so - so that's probably pretty close.
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:33 AM   #32
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Pretty sure the exhaust elbow elevation is near or above the top of the loop in the lazarette.
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:59 PM   #33
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What caught my attention is the hose rises first to the high point at the overhead. Then drops again to the transom outlet.

That first rise after the engine but before the overhead is effectively a dip. it may be OK but I think you need to be very carefull. You do not want me to be right.

Take another picture that actually shows the connection to the engine manifold/turbo and the overhead support.
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:09 PM   #34
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The engine is 8' forward of where the picture was taken. 180 Nordic Tugs were built like this. It is to prevent a following sea backflooding his engine. It's fine.

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Old 09-14-2014, 01:42 AM   #35
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Wagmore,

Read the articles I suggested from Tony Athens.
I simply noted something that you should investigate.

Make up your own mind.
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