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Old 03-31-2015, 02:47 PM   #21
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I forgot to mention this is happening from the fly bridge controls. Out of desperation, I went down below to the lower helm area to see if was any better, and it was. It never stalled from the controls from the lower helm area.

So, maybe it is a short or maybe the shifter on the fly bridge reacts differently. Thoughts??
If it works from down below and not on the flybridge, you appear to have isolated the problem. The upper shifter normally moves the lower via cable, and the lower then shifts the gearbox via a second cable. I'd guess there's slop in that first cable and you're not getting the lever on the transmission making a full throw. So the shift valves get stuck in some no man's land. In any case, I'd investigate the cable adjustment...
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:58 PM   #22
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Could also be cable adjustment causing the idle to drop lower from one helm than from the other helm. Some set ups have two cables making it all the way to the engine.

This will take two folks, one moving levers and another at injection pump seeing if lever goes all the way to the stop.

And a phototach.

Very strange if engine stalls when advancing throttle lever above idle. That is not a normal problem with diesels. To the OP, are you sure of that?
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:04 PM   #23
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Nice! I might have to invest in one of those [engine synchronizer].
It's my understanding that it can be added to just about any set of engines, even the old Lehman 120s. I have no idea what the cost is. We've never seen the need for them on our twin-engine PNW boat as we find syncing our engines manually to be a simple two or three second excersise by ear and feel.

I went on the sea trial of a boat some friends of ours ultimately bought. It had twin Volvo diesels (don't know which model) and and an electronic engine sychronizer. We noticed that at low rpm and idle the synchronizer "hunted" a bit, with the engines going out of sync for a few seconds at random intervals and then back in. The dealer/broker said this behavior was common for this particular syncronizer system.

Ii don't know if this is typical behavior of all syncronizers or not. We have them on another boat but I've not had enough experience with that boat yet to really know how the syncronizers behave.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:23 PM   #24
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Marin: we had a glen denning sybchronizer on my boat and that was not to be engaged until approx. 1,000 rpm mark, or conversely, turned off when going below 1000.
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:43 PM   #25
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The beauty of a synchronizer is the ability to control both engines with the use of just one throttle lever. Once forward is engaged, the synchronizer is switched on. Then the "slave" throttle is fully advanced and the "lead" throttle then controls both engines.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:45 PM   #26
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I thought dual-engine boaters liked the feel of twin throttles in hand: synchronizing the engines with minute palm action. Isn't that part of the fun?
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:05 AM   #27
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I thought dual-engine boaters liked the feel of twin throttles in hand: synchronizing the engines with minute palm action. Isn't that part of the fun?
I do. I can't speak for anyone else.

And since synchonizing multiple boat engines is dirt simple and takes but seconds, I can't really see the value in the price of a synchronizer system. Unless..... one's power levers don't stay where one puts them, in which case a synchronizer would make sense as the alternative would be constantly fiddling with the power levers.

The mechanical power levers on our PNW boat don't move from where they've been set so synchronizing is a one-time function for us when a power change is made.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:29 AM   #28
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Neutral safety switch? Mine only interupts the START circuit to the start solenoid. Would it cause interruption of the Run circuit? We are all just guessing and probing for symptomatic information i know. (Love your avatar hollywood.) provokes happy thoughts.
Similar note my last boat with worn out gas engines has similar problem of dying while docking. That was just a barrel of laughs... AFTER we got it in, of course. culprit was very low compression. Rebuild engine solved that .
Take it out in open waters and repeat the conditions several times from bridge and lower helm. Make sure it is consistant not coincidental.
Good luck interested to hear what you find.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:52 AM   #29
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Rope/wire wrapped around one of the shafts? Tightens in reverse and gets tighter the faster the shaft turns.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:29 PM   #30
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Thank you everyone. My mechanic will be at the boat on Monday. Let's see what happens.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:04 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Toolbuddie View Post
Neutral safety switch? Mine only interupts the START circuit to the start solenoid. Would it cause interruption of the Run circuit? We are all just guessing and probing for symptomatic information i know. (Love your avatar hollywood.) provokes happy thoughts.
Similar note my last boat with worn out gas engines has similar problem of dying while docking. That was just a barrel of laughs... AFTER we got it in, of course. culprit was very low compression. Rebuild engine solved that .
Take it out in open waters and repeat the conditions several times from bridge and lower helm. Make sure it is consistant not coincidental.
Good luck interested to hear what you find.
Dave.
On the GB36 we owned years ago if I came into the dock (due to wind, current, oogling the Admiral's new bikini vs. paying attention) a bit too hot the boat would die if there was forward momentum as she was slipped in reverse (boat not the Admiral! ).
I did this one time while skippering solo from the flybridge (and the damn boat did not have a start button on the flybridge) and found out is was possible to go over the side of the flybridge, swinging wildly.. landing on the side deck and lunging to the lower helm to hit the start button.. It didn't look seaman like but the boat didn't hit the head of the dock so no foul.
I bumped up the idle 100 rpm and it never happened again.. but since I had installed the second start button on the flybridge it was never going to happen again anyway.
Keep in mind that tach's are most times never right and the offending engine might actually be running slower.

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Old 04-11-2015, 09:52 PM   #32
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Not clear if the shift and throttle controls are separate or or single-lever. Sure sounds like the bridge and lower controls are not adjusted the same.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:22 PM   #33
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Two sets of Morse controls. Black are the ones that shift the transmission and the red are the throttles. One set of black & red in the lower helm and one set in the fly bridge. Hope that makes sense.
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