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Old 12-06-2014, 01:44 PM   #1
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Perkins Turbo

I'm running a Perkins T6.354.4M in my Mainship. I was getting puffs of exhaust coming out the joint where the turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold that was getting soot all over the place so I decided to take it off and change the gasket. When i took it off I noticed that the intake side of the turbo was full of sludgy black oil. I always thought that the intake side should be relatively clean. The turbo was rebuilt in 2012 by the PO to the tune of $1,795.00 by Foley Engines. Could it be that the seals are gone in the turbo allowing oil into the intake side of the turbo? Is this why I have been getting blue smoke and a little oily sheen out the exhaust? I'm not a mechanic but I am no stranger to diesel engines. I suppose I'll call Foley on Monday and see if there is any warranty on a rebuild.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:53 PM   #2
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If you have airseps or some sort of crankcase vent recirculation that could be the source.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:33 PM   #3
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That tab from foley is over $1000.00 more than a buddy paid for getting his rebuilt, I've read some very bad reviews on their customer service.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:22 PM   #4
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The guy at Foley's called me a "yachty *******". I would never give them one dime of my money for any part or component they had even if they were the only ones that had it. YMMV. But, just do a google search, see what comes up.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:49 AM   #5
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I also had a very bad experience with Foley long (12 ish years) ago. Quoted around $250.00 for a wiring harness, charged my credit card over $1,200.00. Was also called a *^$*&%.

Thank goodness for support from my credit card company. Made the harness myself.

Rob
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:12 AM   #6
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I also had a bad experience with Foley.


For Perkins help call Trans Atlantic Diesel.


TAD for perkins engines, perkins diesel, perkins marine, perkins parts, perkins generators, perkins service
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:16 AM   #7
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Pull the exhaust off and see if you are getting oil on that side too.
Hold the shaft of the turbo in your fingers -one hand on each end- try to slide the shaft along the axis. It should not slide back and forth clunk clunk. Move the shaft side to side- both hands the same way as in both ends of the shaft towards you and both hands away from you. Not rocking the shaft. You should not feel any play. It the turbo passes those tests it is probable that it can be rebuilt. But... I would check the crankcase ventilation system first. The last JD I looked at that thought he had a turbo problem was a collapsed hose from the air sep set up so the engine had so much crankcase pressure the oil would not drain out the turbo drain pipe and as a result the oil was going out past the shaft seals.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:36 AM   #8
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Here's another bad experience from Foley please go someplace else. I'll help you find another source of you need it.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:39 AM   #9
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Amazing the terrible things we hear out of Foley
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:01 PM   #10
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Wow! Ok, I get it, Foley sucks. It's unanimous!
I haven't had time to dig into this problem yet but I will in the next few days. I checked the shaft and it spins freely and there is no play in any direction. I researched a little and a lot of people say that a rebuild kit for this particular turbo is a simple thing and no big deal. I plan to carefully disassemble and clean the nasty oily intake side and replace the seal which I see in the cross section I found of this turbo. A little more research is in order but I think I will give it a shot. Anyone have any doubt or cautions regarding my plan of action?
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:39 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by slowandsteady View Post
Anyone have any doubt or cautions regarding my plan of action?
Ok, so Foley sucks. But how do you know the seals are bad? Does your air breather hose go back to the intake side. If so, maybe you should take it off the intake connection and drop it into a "puke" bottle to see if you still have "smoke".
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:15 PM   #12
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Sunchaser,
You're right. I should probably check the oil line that comes off the bottom of the turbo and goes into the crankcase (or is it the oil cooler?), down there on the port side of the engine. I'll have to check that. Forgive me for not knowing, it's only been mine since May, we're just getting to know each other.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:39 PM   #13
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Find the crank case breather tube - see where it goes. Check that the oil separator is not plugged and that none of the hoses to it or from it are plugged or collapsed. Engines build pressure in the crankcase if the breather is plugged. they will make enough pressure to prevent the oil from going down the turbo drain line. This will make the seal leak. check that whole system first.
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:43 PM   #14
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Oil cooler

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowandsteady View Post
Sunchaser,
You're right. I should probably check the oil line that comes off the bottom of the turbo and goes into the crankcase (or is it the oil cooler?), down there on the port side of the engine. I'll have to check that. Forgive me for not knowing, it's only been mine since May, we're just getting to know each other.
I am in Colorado my Mainship is in Melbourne FL. the power plant is a T6 354 my return line from my Turbo go into the pan.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:37 AM   #15
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The return oil line is NOT what I was referring too. Let me be more clear. There should be a line -rubber hose- going from your valve cover area back to the air intake and air filter. Remove it at the filter and drop it into a plastic milk jug filled with paper towels. This line carrys oil mist to the turbo and by removing it for a temporary period you can then assess if there is a reduction in your "problem,"

What RPMs do you normally cruise at?
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:22 AM   #16
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I normally cruise at 1500 RPM. I open it up a little for some time during a run, gradually up to around 2000 RPM and leave it there for 5- 10 minutes. But for the most part it's 1500 RPM at 7.5 knots.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunchaser View Post
The return oil line is NOT what I was referring too. Let me be more clear. There should be a line -rubber hose- going from your valve cover area back to the air intake and air filter. Remove it at the filter and drop it into a plastic milk jug filled with paper towels. This line carrys oil mist to the turbo and by removing it for a temporary period you can then assess if there is a reduction in your "problem,"

What RPMs do you normally cruise at?
Thank you I have some oil consumption I will try that when I get back to Florida in January.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:40 PM   #18
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Going back to the original post and regarding turbocharger rebuilds and guarantees:
When I bought my Mainship 34 back in 1991, I had it surveyed by an engine guy and he said the turbo needed a rebuild. (this was an old Perkins T6.354).
The seller agreed to take it back for a second rebuild as he had just had it done year or 2 prior at a place in NH called "United Turbo" (they are still in business I believe).
So when we did the deal the "new" turbo was installed (actually I helped install it).
Along with the fresh rebuild was a set of "rules" (line items) that was expected to be followed in order to insure the warrantee.
I remember 4 of them.
A new oil return line was required (from the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan.
A new oil feed line was required.
The turbo had to be primed with fresh oil just prior to initial startup.
The break in procedure had to be followed (to properly set the oil ring seal)
(15 minutes at 1000 to 1200 rpm)

So, if you go back to Foley (first of all good luck with that) keep these things in mind and be prepared with an answer.
And more than likely Foley did NOT do the rebuild themselves, they may have sent it to United or another specialty shop.

I hope this helps, good luck with getting this resolved.

I know if you have a Perkins 200 HP engine, turbos and rebuild kits are hard to find. If you get stuck, a Holset marine turbo for a Cummins 6BTA (of that era, ie the venerable 210 hp version) (and I think Holsets were also used on the older Volvos) will easily adapt to your engine. The manifold mount is a standard, the air plumbing may have to be adapted to proper diameter.
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:31 PM   #19
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I know if you have a Perkins 200 HP engine, turbos and rebuild kits are hard to find. If you get stuck, a Holset marine turbo for a Cummins 6BTA (of that era, ie the venerable 210 hp version) (and I think Holsets were also used on the older Volvos) will easily adapt to your engine. The manifold mount is a standard, the air plumbing may have to be adapted to proper diameter.
Seen a lot of Perkins (my favourite engine) and never seen anything but a Holset turbo on them. Perkins did not build turbos.
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:56 PM   #20
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Perkins Sabre engines of the past decade or so use Garrett Airresearch (Honeywell) turbos. GA has been around about as long as turbochargers have been used.
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