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Old 08-06-2014, 12:34 PM   #1
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Perkins Not Shutting Down

Starboard fuel cut off solenoid is has quit working. Observed it while STOP button pushed, solenoid only throws part way. Not sure if wiring or the solenoid is the culprit. Any easy test to determine?
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:45 PM   #2
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If your solenoid has power while the engine is running, pulling the power wire off the solenoid should shut the engine down and solenoid to the closed position. If the solenoid requires power to shut then run a power wire from your battery or other good power source and see if the solenoid closes completely. Could be your push button but likely the solenoid is sticking IMO.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:22 PM   #3
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Clean and lube the piston and cylinder of the solenoid.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:26 AM   #4
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That's a frequent problem with both the 6.354 and 4.2XX series Perkins. Could be a weak solenoid, but is most often the momentary push button or the wiring between the switch and solenoid.

The push button applies 12 volts to activate the shutdown solenoid. As LaBomba described below, work backwards from the solenoid. Start by attaching a temporary wire to the battery positive post and touch it too the terminal on the top of the solenoid. The solenoid is already grounded and if it's good, the solenoids will activate all the way. Then you will know it's in the switch or wiring. Then go to the dash and remove the wire from the push button shutdown switch. touch the wire end to a good 12 volt pos. source looking for the same result again. If it doesn't work, then it's the wire, otherwise check out the switch.

Last fall I had the same problem and that time it was the wire between the button and solenoid.
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Old 08-08-2014, 12:59 AM   #5
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If it is in fact the solenoid AND you are mechanically inclined, may I suggest you look into this unit:

94 98 5 9L Dodge Diesel Cummins Fuel Shut Off Solenoid 3931570 5016244AA | eBay

I have a Perkins 4.108 and used this unit to power my fuel cut off valve. I called several Perkins dealers to obtain the solenoid, only to find out they were highly overpriced and rather flimsy. On the advice of a friend, I purchased this unit; and it is superior in quality and power to the Perkins OEM solenoid. I of course had to adapt it by fabricating a custom fitting, but it was well woth the effort. It is a higher quality unit at a fraction of the cost of the OEM part...and available a dime a dozen on eBay.

Best of luck with diagnosing and solving the problem.
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edelweiss View Post
That's a frequent problem with both the 6.354 and 4.2XX series Perkins. Could be a weak solenoid, but is most often the momentary push button or the wiring between the switch and solenoid.

The push button applies 12 volts to activate the shutdown solenoid. As LaBomba described below, work backwards from the solenoid. Start by attaching a temporary wire to the battery positive post and touch it too the terminal on the top of the solenoid. The solenoid is already grounded and if it's good, the solenoids will activate all the way. Then you will know it's in the switch or wiring. Then go to the dash and remove the wire from the push button shutdown switch. touch the wire end to a good 12 volt pos. source looking for the same result again. If it doesn't work, then it's the wire, otherwise check out the switch.

Last fall I had the same problem and that time it was the wire between the button and solenoid.
Great advice, Larry! That's a sensible, measured approach to troubleshooting and diagnosis.

I had the same problem and started by throwing parts at it. I now have a spare solenoid to attest to the foolishness of that approach.

Mine was the wire which was a simple repair. My troubleshooting step was to run a temporary wire from the switch to the solenoid to test the solenoid and the switch. A long wire with alligator clips is an essential tool on my boat.

If you're looking for a portable, independent and inexpensive 12V power source, consider a portable jump start battery pack. Taking a battery pack to the job is sometimes simpler than running a new wire to the ship's battery. Some can be bought in the $30-40 range.
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:25 AM   #7
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Back track the wiring, cut and clean every splice and terminal connection you find along the way. Worked for me when I was having similar issue with my 6.354. Also greased up the piston with 'Super Lube' and never had a problem with it again.
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