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Old 02-13-2017, 09:57 AM   #1
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Perkins 6.354M valve clearance discrepancy

The shop manual specifies .012" all valves clearance with a cold engine. The handbook specifies .008" intake and .018" exhaust valve clearance with engine hot or cold. Which is right?
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Old 02-13-2017, 12:37 PM   #2
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It's very difficult doing valves hot as by the time you get one end done the temperature is changed. Logically, without any more information, I would do them cold. Check the dates on the books, I would prefer the shop manual as the specs might have changed over time.

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Old 02-13-2017, 12:48 PM   #3
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Check that one set of specs is for a turbo engine and other for NA. That might be why they are different.
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:24 PM   #4
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Good thought but neither source differentiates between NA or T.
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nauticlew View Post
The shop manual specifies .012" all valves clearance with a cold engine. The handbook specifies .008" intake and .018" exhaust valve clearance with engine hot or cold. Which is right?
You didn't say what Year/Range engines, but the 70's 6.354M N/A engine was spec'd at .012" both Intake/Exhaust and to be performed while the engine is cold.

The Perkins mechanic who demonstrated adjusting the valves for me also said, better to error on the loose side than too tight. Using a feeler gauge isn't an exact science and can vary slightly between people. So a little too tight isn't better in this case.
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:59 PM   #6
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Good advice. A notation says the engine is a 1984. Handbook is dated 1981, shop manual is dated 1991. Did the mechanic turn the engine by hand or bump with the starter?
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:43 PM   #7
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He said you could use the starter to do one or two in a pinch, but didn't recommend it. Too hard on the starter solenoid (which are flakie on those engines) and not accurate enough. He rolled the engine back and forth a little just to ensure the lifter was off the cam lobe.

He used about a 20" long handled 3/4" ratchet drive and socket on the crank bolt (don't remember the bolt size, it's huge). He said some people use a breaker bar, but he didn't because he thought it was dangerous if someone should kick the starter. I use a 1/2 ratchet with a 12" handle extension to gain a little leverage and it works fine. I turn the battery switch off anyway.

The trickiest part is holding the adjusting screw still while tightening the lock nut. Be sure to recheck the clearance after locking the screw tight.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:45 PM   #8
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I know this is an old thread, but I was just looking for this info when I noticed the same "discrepancy" in some postings. I figured I'd answer it anyway, just in case someone else stumbles across it in the future.

It depends upon the version of the engine. This table from Foley Engines is nice:

-- https://www.foleyengines.com/tech-ti...alve-settings/
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:33 AM   #9
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"Using a feeler gauge isn't an exact science and can vary slightly between people."

For folks new to the game, the easiest is a "go-no go" technique.

If the requirement is for 12 tho an 11 thou blade should be an easy fit , a 13 thou blade a hard fit.
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:30 PM   #10
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I always used the go / no go feelers on Detroit diesels. No reason they canít be used on other valve lash adjustments.
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