Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-21-2012, 11:29 AM   #1
Guru
 
City: Full Time Cruising East Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Meridian
Vessel Model: Krogen-42
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 756
Patching a stern tube

Now that I can see the inside of the stern tube on my Albin 36, it looks like there are 3 places that corrosion has eaten through the stainless. They are all on the bottom of the tube and look to be about 2 long by 1 wide. From seeing a tube that had been removed from another Albin 36 it looks like Swiss cheese. My plan is to get a syringe with a long spout and try to inject epoxy over the area. There is no way I would attempt to replace the tube.

Any other ideas?
__________________
Advertisement

__________________
-------------------------
Terry
Meridian
KK-42097
meridian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 11:57 AM   #2
Guru
 
Phil Fill's Avatar
 
City: Everett Wa
Country: US
Vessel Name: Eagle
Vessel Model: Roughwater 58 pilot house
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,919
Quote:
Originally Posted by meridian View Post
Now that I can see the inside of the stern tube on my Albin 36, it looks like there are 3 places that corrosion has eaten through the stainless. They are all on the bottom of the tube and look to be about 2 long by 1 wide. From seeing a tube that had been removed from another Albin 36 it looks like Swiss cheese. My plan is to get a syringe with a long spout and try to inject epoxy over the area. There is no way I would attempt to replace the tube.

Any other ideas?

The Eagle tube has some holes in it but its incased in concrete so it does not matter. If concerned I would slide another thin wall tube inside the old, and have a new narrow shaft made out of better SS than what the present shaft is made of. Not all SS is the same.

You can try what you are doing but make sure its bone dry, any moister will cause it to fail. So is the tube leaking and/or encased? But doing something is better than doing nothing?

You might also want to check how straight the shaft is as SS/metal will sag over time if stopped in the same position. We straight thousand of shaft per year so dont let them tell you, you need a new shaft. if the shaft needs straightening I would look for a commercial shop. I had the Eagle shaft straighten as it had a sag in it, took 30 minutes to straighten.
__________________

Phil Fill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #3
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
I think you will waste time and epoxy trying to inject it with a syringe.

Look at this as one alternative:
http://www.nuflowtech.com/products.aspx
My own preference, and perhaps a better DIY method, is to use this:
http://stevensproducts.net/composite.htm
as a thin liner if you have adequate shaft clearance. Thoroughly clean and prep the interior of the stern tube and coat it and the tube with expoxy or something like 5200.
Fabricate a tool that looks like a short spool with an OD the same as the ID of your existing tube. The distance between the two outer ends need only be a half inch or so, it will look like a piston with a wide ring groove about halfway along its length. There should be a drilled port connecting the outside of one end of the spool with the center of the spool. Attach a flexible tube to the outside of that. It will be used to deliver epoxy or 5200. Attach a rod to the center of the spool like a piston rod on a hydraulic cylinder so that you can move the spool in and out along the length of the stern tube while pumping epoxy or 5200 in with a caulking gun and refillable cartrige. Do this slowly and allow all the holes and voids behind them to fill. When you pull it out the tube should have a smooth surface and be ready for the thin wall liner that has an OD very slightly less than the tube ID, you are looking for a "clearance fit" or one that allows very easy sliding in and out before applying the adhesive.
I have not done this on a stern tube but have done it to repair otherwise unreachable and unrepairable piping until a shipyard could crop out and replace the pipe. The repair would have lasted for years but was not a "class approved" technique for permanent repair otherwise it could have stayed.
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 01:07 PM   #4
Guru
 
motion30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 740
If you can all the way around it, I would wrap it with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin
motion30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 02:17 PM   #5
Guru
 
jleonard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,740
Quote:
Originally Posted by meridian View Post
Now that I can see the inside of the stern tube on my Albin 36, it looks like there are 3 places that corrosion has eaten through the stainless. There is no way I would attempt to replace the tube.
I'm curious why you would not attempt to replace the entire tube.
Esp since I also have an Albin and may run into the same issue some day.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Attitude Adjustment
40 Albin
Mystic,Ct. /New Port Richey,Fl
jleonard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 06:54 PM   #6
Guru
 
City: Full Time Cruising East Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Meridian
Vessel Model: Krogen-42
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 756
Very labor intensive since it is most likly buried in cement. Iv'e heard in the area of 10k+ for a yard to do it.
__________________
-------------------------
Terry
Meridian
KK-42097
meridian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 08:37 PM   #7
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,920
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
I'm curious why you would not attempt to replace the entire tube.
Esp since I also have an Albin and may run into the same issue some day.
it allows water to seep into the hollow keel....

I may have the same problem but was advised by a marina that pulled a 36 Albins tube that pulling the tube was worse than giving birth.

RickB's suggestion is about the same as I was thinking....there's a thousand ways to do it...it's just what will actually work and be easy enough to do.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 10:00 PM   #8
Guru
 
City: Full Time Cruising East Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Meridian
Vessel Model: Krogen-42
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 756
I think I'll just live with it.
__________________
-------------------------
Terry
Meridian
KK-42097
meridian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 10:45 PM   #9
Guru
 
motion30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 740
On my 34' MT although it was set in stone and resin It really was not that big of a deal to remove About 40 min with a hammer and chisel was all it took
motion30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 10:52 PM   #10
Guru
 
City: Full Time Cruising East Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Meridian
Vessel Model: Krogen-42
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 756
Dut to built-in cabintry in the aft cabin, I can't get to the entire length that has to be removed
__________________
-------------------------
Terry
Meridian
KK-42097
meridian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 07:07 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
stevensibs's Avatar
 
City: Rockport
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Still Sibsie
Vessel Model: 42' Bristol Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 157


Guys, here's a picture that shows my hollow keel. About 6" deep by 3" wide. Should I fill it with concrete or.... have some lead cast to the exact shape in say 300 lb. units and put them in various places along the length to level the waterline where needed? Or just leave it empty.
__________________
Steve and Sibsie
42' Bristol Trawler
member ABYC
www.sibsie.com
stevensibs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 08:29 AM   #12
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
Why do you feel the need to fill it with anything?
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 09:00 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
stevensibs's Avatar
 
City: Rockport
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Still Sibsie
Vessel Model: 42' Bristol Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 157
I don't neccessarily but this is my first trawler, all other boats were sportfish planing hulls and I've been reading alot about ballast in trawler keels. Another 42' Bristol named Moose has 3000 lbs. of lead pigs in his bottom, says its a better ride. That's why I'm asking here...
__________________
Steve and Sibsie
42' Bristol Trawler
member ABYC
www.sibsie.com
stevensibs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 12:13 PM   #14
Guru
 
City: Carefree, Arizona
Country: usa
Vessel Name: sunchaser V
Vessel Model: DeFever 48
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,372
How does the weight of your new engine compare to old? IF you want more weight, I'd stay away from concrete and go with lead weights that allows your bilge to stay dry and you can get at any water if need be.
sunchaser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 12:27 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
stevensibs's Avatar
 
City: Rockport
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Still Sibsie
Vessel Model: 42' Bristol Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 157
The weight will be very close if not more. I have heard about the concrete horror stories and dont want that so I think casting lead to the exact shape and size of the keel; maybe two or three say 2 foot long each spaced evenly along the keel length, and moveable so to balance the waterline. I would cast in lifting eyes to be able to move them forward and aft. Naval architechture, weight and balance, righting moments....I just want the boat to ride nice! lol
__________________
Steve and Sibsie
42' Bristol Trawler
member ABYC
www.sibsie.com
stevensibs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensibs View Post
I just want the boat to ride nice!
I guess you need to define "nice."

Do you want a fast roll or a slow roll?
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 01:57 PM   #17
Guru
 
boatpoker's Avatar
 
City: Port Credit
Country: Ontario
Vessel Name: DIRT FREE
Vessel Model: Benford Fantail 38
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,012
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensibs View Post
The weight will be very close if not more. I have heard about the concrete horror stories and dont want that so I think casting lead to the exact shape and size of the keel; maybe two or three say 2 foot long each spaced evenly along the keel length, and moveable so to balance the waterline. I would cast in lifting eyes to be able to move them forward and aft. Naval architechture, weight and balance, righting moments....I just want the boat to ride nice! lol

Fill the keel with lead pigs or lead shot. When you get her sitting the way you want, pour in several gallons of resin and add a little glass fiber to tie it together.
boatpoker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 02:14 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
stevensibs's Avatar
 
City: Rockport
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Still Sibsie
Vessel Model: 42' Bristol Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 157
slow roll is what the boat is designed to give. And I think I'm going to go with the lead.
__________________
Steve and Sibsie
42' Bristol Trawler
member ABYC
www.sibsie.com
stevensibs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #19
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensibs View Post
slow roll is what the boat is designed to give.
That is why the keel is empty.
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2012, 03:20 PM   #20
TF Site Team
 
Larry M's Avatar
 
City: JAX, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Hobo
Vessel Model: Krogen 42-120
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,745
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensibs View Post
slow roll is what the boat is designed to give. And I think I'm going to go with the lead.
We're 42' with 39' 2" of water line. If I added another 3,000 lbs, that would lower the water line 1.5". That would also mean I would have to raise the water line and re-paint the boot stripe.
__________________

Larry M is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012