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Old 12-28-2013, 08:16 AM   #141
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The 1986 edition of the Lehman operators manual gives an oil viscosity table.
All the recommendations are single weight based on "average" temperature ranges. (I am not able to post the chart)
That said I am using 15-40. That is what my PO had been using and after a one on one discussion with Bob Smith at a rendezvous he agreed that it would be fine to continue with that rather than change.
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Old 12-28-2013, 11:24 AM   #142
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My PO used car oil. He never used a dedicated diesel oil. He was an oil man too. Worked in the oil industry. Does that make him right?

I use Delvac 1, Mobil's Mobil 1 for diesels. I have used Mobil 1 since 1977. I use it in everything.

My 1983 GMC Jimmy has 681,052 miles on it. Any Questions? It's a 6.2L diesel. Yes, the same engine in the HumVees of Desert Storm Fame.
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Old 12-28-2013, 02:09 PM   #143
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1st of all I don't give a rat about Desert Storm or Humvees.

Qustiions ? Sure.

What maintenance have you done? Heads or pan been off? Can you see your neighbors after you start it up? Sorry I couldn't resist. Do you use M1 in your transmissions? I did on my previous boat.

I guess you're saying if we used M1 oil our engines would last longer. I have an 87 Nissan Stanza w 275,000 miles on it and I think it needs a tune up probably not related to the oil. The PO used 5-30 and 10-30 Castrol oil all it's life and changed it every 3000 mi. Seems to have gotten it that far gracefully. No serious engine maintenance done. Starts instantly.

In my opinion there is no doubt syn oil is better but there is serious doubt that it makes our engines last longer. If I thought so I'd put syn in the Nissan right away. And it would be Mobile 1.

How often did you change your oil in the Jimmy?
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Old 12-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #144
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The mention of HumVees is because some of us will think my 6.2L is a converted gasoline block like the Olds, which it isn't. It was designed ground up by Detroit Diesel. So save your rat's.

I bought it used in 1994 when I was GSM at a GMC dealership. It was a trade in. I changed over to Mobil 1 after trying dello and rotella and not liking them.

I change oil when ever I think about it. I never have a mileage restriction on Delvac 1. I changed it twice this year and the filter maybe three times. I believe it's more important to change filters than oil.

It doesn't smoke. Doesn't burn oil excessively. I might burn a quart every 2k which I think is normal.

The most replaced thing on my diesel is the IP. Since CA removed sulphur from it's diesel my IP's have not lived long at all.

Which is a subject all in it's self. I tried every additive available and logged everything using them. MPG as well. I found the claims they make are pure bunko. The worse was Lucas which not only didn't save the IP but dropped my MPG by 4.

Stanadyne sells the magical cure all and it did nothing. No MPG change or added IP life.

I bought three IP's, had them rebuilt and ready. I even bought a USG Arctic pump that is made of high strength steel and can run JP2 or 4 and it did last better than the other ones.

Now I don't use any additive. I'm done with them. They don't work as claimed and I'm saving money.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:26 AM   #145
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My PO used car oil. He never used a dedicated diesel oil. He was an oil man too. Worked in the oil industry. Does that make him right?

PROBABLY,

all engine lube oil will have the specifications right on the can.

Most older engines are quite happy with the oil that was common when they were built.

IF Da Book requires one level of detergent , and auto oil has that listing on its can , its just fine.

A very modern engine required by the air police to eat its own exhaust will require a newer diesel lube oil , to help the engine life , but higher detergent does nothing to the old farm implement engines built for then available oils.

READ DA BOOK, Read the oil can!!!

Oil is OIL , just the additive package is different.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:18 AM   #146
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Thanks for all the info .

So I got and applied all the advice I could...
Changed oil with 15/40 rotella at 12.5(recommended but scary way below min)
Cleaned air filters
Cleaned intercoolers
Ran out almost all old fuel and put in fresh ( ran her hard for 6 hrs)
Injector service
Wolverine pan heaters

Tried to take last advice and calm the heck down
She still smokes like a bitch
So if compression was ok at survey, what's left?
Valve guide seals?
Rings?

Are there any cheap things I missed before I start spending a lot?
At some point it's best to turn things over to a pro. Someone who has been to factory training and has the knowledge and experience to diagnose your problem and fix it.

Many people call themselves mechanics but simply replace parts until the problem goes away, charging you for the parts and labor. A real mechanic will do some testing and then go right to the source of the problem and replace only what's necessary.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:28 AM   #147
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.................... how can syn oil be "superior" if dino oil is "good enough"? ...............
I think that's a point missed by a lot of people and not just when talking about oil.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:39 AM   #148
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For the moment, take cost out of the discussion. If conventional/dino, semi synthetic, and synthetic all cost the same, what would you use?
With over 3K hours on the engine, I think I would keep using what I am using. Shell Rotella T
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:45 PM   #149
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What color is the smoke? Does it ever change, like get less after warmup? Does it idle smooth or is there a slight shake?

I can't believe we can't figure this out. If you can take a picture of the smoke, post it.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:52 PM   #150
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Were running Chevron Super Plus 15w-40, we only use it because we get it for basically free. Chevrons done us fine so far. We change oil every year.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:48 PM   #151
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Part of having a trawler is getting from A to B safely and cheaply.If money were no object, then I would use Syn. oils in every thing. Could be some of the strong opinions expressed here are just because of their cheap thinking. Yes I do use the old fashion oil, because I am CHEAP and for what I do, it works. If I only had more money !
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:55 AM   #152
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You're not cheap Ron you're just smart.

I think dino oil is better at something but I can't remember what it is. But dino oil seems to do a 100% job of protecting the engine. And those that have extensive knowledge on such matters and are responsible for millions of dollars worth of machinery mostly use dino oil .. and some use synthetic.

But there shouldn't be any heat while talking about this as using:

A. 15-40 dino
B. 30W dino
C. Synthetic lube

Will protect our engines fully.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:59 AM   #153
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But there shouldn't be any heat while talking about this as using:

A. 15-40 dino
B. 30W dino
C. Synthetic lube

Will protect our engines fully.

If you are talking about most antique farm implement engine conversions in old trawlers , that is probably right.

However ALL engines esp newer engines MUST have the oil specs the engine builder requires .

Its mostly detergents changes , but there are other anti wear , anti foaming chemicals required for modern diesels.

As always DA BOOK rules!
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:22 AM   #154
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The only people arguing about what oil to use are hobbyists and truck drivers.

Considering that no marine diesel manufacturer requires the use of synthetic oil only, and most synthetics are a blend of synthetic and natural base oils, the argument is once again one of angels dancing on pinheads.

FF, I don't think anyone is suggesting that the use of straight mineral base oil with no additives ala 1930 is an alternative. I doubt anyone can even find a local source of "dino" base stock that seems to be offered here as the alternative to what is found on the shelves of nearly every supermarket, boatyard, or parts store in the US.

I doubt that there is a lube oil on the market today that will not provide more than adequate service to any engine any reader has in his or her boat.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:28 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by RickB View Post
The only people arguing about what oil to use are hobbyists and truck drivers.

Considering that no marine diesel manufacturer requires the use of synthetic oil only, and most synthetics are a blend of synthetic and natural base oils, the argument is once again one of angels dancing on pinheads.

FF, I don't think anyone is suggesting that the use of straight mineral base oil with no additives ala 1930 is an alternative. I doubt anyone can even find a local source of "dino" base stock that seems to be offered here as the alternative to what is found on the shelves of nearly every supermarket, boatyard, or parts store in the US.

I doubt that there is a lube oil on the market today that will not provide more than adequate service to any engine any reader has in his or her boat.
Rick,
great post.. that should end the debate... but it won't!

HOLLYWOOD
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:41 AM   #156
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Rick,
great post.. that should end the debate... but it won't!

HOLLYWOOD
Yes, somebody will read an Amsoil or Royal Purple ad fluff piece and away we go again.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:48 AM   #157
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But I do have to admit it is more entertaining for me than the anchor or single vs twins arguments.
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #158
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I doubt that there is a lube oil on the market today that will not provide more than adequate service to any engine any reader has in his or her boat.
That's quotable!

100% agree.

I'll add, change your oil often. ("Often" being defined as the manufacturers recommendation or better)
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:21 AM   #159
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I doubt that there is a lube oil on the market today that will not provide more than adequate service to any engine any reader has in his or her boat.

DEPENDS , not everyone has an antique engine,

IF its a brand new diesel with EGR , the use of perfectly good 1960-80 era oil will not hold the fine soot as required these days.

That 20% or 25% of the oil package is actually required .

Happily using new rated ,made for new engines lube oil does no harm to older engines that do not require more modern oil.
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