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Old 10-23-2013, 08:38 PM   #21
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Marvel Mystery Oil. Let the fun begin.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:17 PM   #22
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If people didn't buy snake oil...there would be no snake oil salesmen, a lower economy and no one to make fun of...or the snake oil salesmen either.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:49 PM   #23
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"Cheap Rotella"....I am of the opinion that is some of the best stuff out there!?
Ditto!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:13 PM   #24
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If people didn't buy snake oil...there would be no snake oil salesmen, a lower economy and no one to make fun of...or the snake oil salesmen either.
It's a time honored tradition
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:20 AM   #25
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Set the valves and retorque the heads, you've already done the injectors. They all put a little diesel in the water and they all smoke until full temperature. I ran straight 30 (Delo) and it ran fine. A common issue is these engines were installed in boats at an angle and their dipsticks were not re calibrated, resulting in owners putting in too much oil. Next oil change, measure the oil carefully as per the manual and recheck your sticks, they may need re calibrating. Too much oil has to go somewhere and usually it's out the exhaust, if it doesn't come out a seal. You will find that Lehmans use oil down to a certain level then stop. This level seems to be different for each, but mine, if I recall correctly, was about 9 litres. YMMV.
It sounds like your engines are happy. I was told to run WOT for a few minutes every few hours (forget the interval, Bob Smith will tell you). This gets the engine entirely warm, tests the cooling system and prevents glazing. Makes a hell of a racket but never hurt my engine. In fact, when I bought it, the engine surveyor ran it WOT.
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Old 10-25-2013, 11:18 AM   #26
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Xsbank,
No need to run WOT except when you need to see if all is well. To keep the rings free and such I'm sure an 80% load (probably 2 or 300 rpm down from WOT) should do the trick for boats propped to rated rpm. My opinion.

More opinion. You wrote "if you over fill the oil needs to go somewhere" may not in many circumstances and w many engines be the case. I think it depends a lot on engine design and the amount of over fill. Many engines may be fine a quart or so over and some may not.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:20 PM   #27
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That's probably so but this discussion has morphed into Lehmans and the presentation I attended by Bob Smith at GB Rendezvous, he said WOT. Which is what I said.

Of course, you will do what you want with your own engine as WOT seems to scare some people. My Lehman was rated at 120 hp at 2800 rpm. Which also happens to be WOT. If WOT was unhealthy, the manufacturer would have rated the engine at, say 100 hp at 2400 rpm, which would be WOT and well within the engines ability. WOT should not scare you, unless you never do maintenance, for WOT is when the heat exchangers etc. fail.

The oil. If you own a Lehman you will see the mysterious oil consumption after an oil change, then it won't move again for ages. They do that.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:25 PM   #28
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... I think it depends a lot on engine design and the amount of over fill. Many engines may be fine a quart or so over and some may not.
Your right on the engine design Eric but I know on our Ford Lehman SP135, when oil was put to the factory dip stick mark, which is where it was when we bought her, it took 18.5 quarts of oil. The engine specs via the shop manual and American Diesel say 14.5 quarts unless you have the a high inclination sump which takes 21 qts.

On oil weights, when we were in Alaska and the PNW we ran Delo 400, 30 weight. When we got to warmer climates we switched to 40 weight.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:30 PM   #29
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That's the infamous miss-marked dipstick problem with some Lehmans installed by certain manufacturers. You're lucky if that excess doesn't do damage but it is usually just wasted.

Fortunately, Lehmans and Keith Richard will be the only things still alive after the apocalypse.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #30
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Larry and Xbank,
Yes I run Delo 30W too. I have been known to mix 30W and 40W together. 35W ? .. For summer.

I think if you put quite a bit of excess oil in the pressure will blow the crankcase seals. No first hand experience on that one though.

Re the oil capacity it looks like ther'e were things Lehman overlooked when they converted the truck and tractor engine to marine use. Not very smart of them to overlook the shaft angle element of the marine conversion. All 4 stroke engines are oil cooled to some extent but the Lehman/Ford must be more so than most. How does that compare w other 120 hp marine engines?

Bank,
Just saw your other post. I'm quite sure Lehman's are rated at 2500 rpm. You may have an odd ball but you should probably check. You may be too much under propped.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #31
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...Re the oil capacity it looks like ther'e were things Lehman overlooked when they converted the truck and tractor engine to marine use. Not very smart of them to overlook the shaft angle element of the marine conversion...
It wasn't Lehman that overlooked the oil capacity but the boat builders who put the engines in. The Lehman Power manual specifically refers to either remarking the dip stick or shortening the "tube" that the dip stick goes into. The manual even goes as far to mention the need to de-burr the tube if you shorten that vs remarking the dipstick.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:21 PM   #32
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It wasn't Lehman that overlooked the oil capacity but the boat builders who put the engines in. The Lehman Power manual specifically refers to either remarking the dip stick or shortening the "tube" that the dip stick goes into.
The same with Perkins 6-354's. Different installers either did or didn't pay attention to the manufactures instructions. Mine were marinized by Charles E. Smith and the oil volume on the dip sticks were right on. Hard to say what Smith marinized, since everything was Perkins OE parts? Maybe he provided the Delco starters and Alternators?

Tried 10-30 W oil, but the engines liked it too much and ate it freely. Have used 30 W ever since.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:30 PM   #33
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Cummins are the same reference the tilt angle and the shallow oil pans. It is also recommended to re calibrate the dipstick...or most people just fill to the bottom of the safe range...which should be 13 quarts.
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:02 PM   #34
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Manyboats, you are correct! You forced me to get out my manual and it is indeed 120 at 2500 rpm, WOT is also 2500 with a load, 2650 no load.

I re-read my post and I still stand by what I wrote, WOT is not inherently bad for a diesel, it is the manufacturer's max continuous power. It's arguable (no kidding) about how reasonable it is to make an old man run, but I believe if it fails at WOT, it will fail soon anyway and it's better to find out under controlled conditions. WOT will check all your engine systems and point out any weaknesses. I swallowed the whole WOT pill because it's logical.

I used to operate large radial engines and learned first hand about manufacturer's power limitations, useful information that can be applied to ANY engine from small outboards to large jet engines.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:40 PM   #35
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I have taken Bob Smith's course twice. The second time he stated that there was an error in the Lehman Sabre manual about the oil capacity requirement of the FL 135. the manual states 19.76 US quarts (page A6). Bob says it should be 14.5. I clarified this later with Brian Smith and he reaffirmed 14.5 quarts, regardless of the inclination of the engine. The stick should be remarked. A PO has drawn a line through the error in the manual and written in 14.37 quarts. The main engine seal was replaced at about 2000 hours, probably a result of an overfill of oil. A longtime FL mechanic in Steveston also confirmed with me 14 litres. He remarked the oil pan was huge in the engines.

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Old 10-28-2013, 03:44 PM   #36
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I have well over 3200 hours on my Ford Lehman diesels which are 1966 Dagenham Fords. I use Delvac 1 and it is a multi weight oil. After I switched to Delvac 1 my smoking went down. I swear by it. The sheen also dropped dramatically and is almost non existent when it's warmed up.

Before that I used Rotella last and agree for the money, it's very good.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:46 AM   #37
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Gents, Let me throw in my 2 cents worth! We have a boat in the British Virgin Islands using a Perkins 4-108 50 HP diesel. The engine is unknown high time. Recently the gentleman responsible for our maintenance conferred with a number of diesel gurus down there and the conclusion was to switch from Rotella 15W-40W to the straight 40W for the hours on the engine and temps down there. Supposedly better lubricating qualities under those conditions. George
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:29 AM   #38
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WOT ..... is the manufacturer's max continuous power.
Be careful here. WOT is simply WOT....whatever you get when you firewall the throttle. If it matches what is in the manual(max RATED power), THEN you are correct. But usually it does not.

Also, Max continuous and max rated power can be two different numbers(and likely different than WOT)....

My previous boat had a Yanmar 4LHA-STP. Max rated power was 240hp@3300RPM. Max continuous was 190hp@3100RPM. WOT was 3600RPM...comfortably underpropped.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:44 AM   #39
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Be careful here. WOT is simply WOT....
My previous boat had a Yanmar 4LHA-STP. Max rated power was 240hp@3300RPM. Max continuous was 190hp@3100RPM. WOT was 3600RPM...comfortably underpropped.
And out of gear at WOT - high idle - is 3700rpm.

The new member should realize there is a whole world of difference between the means and rate of power extraction between a marine diesel and a corncob radial or gas turbine.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:25 AM   #40
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Of all the technical things I've read over the years on lubrication there is only one the engineers all agree on. The higher the viscosity the less the wear. The inclination to use thin oils these days is to minimize friction and maximize car sales. One mpg better on the window sticker is worth the lives of several thousand engineers. Marin and I talked about this long ago yes I'm using 5-30W synthetic lube in my newer car that specifies that. Bummer .... it costs $50 just for the lube and filter. But I still use 30W in my boat diesel.

I don't remember it mentioned but WOT on the controls may not be WOT on the engine. One needs to check that the cable rotates the throttle shaft all the way to max. If it dosn't some guys may think ther'e overpropped and in fact they could be underpropped.
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