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03-21-2016, 06:37 PM
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#1
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Oh boy
Just sharing the pain....
Found out I need motor mounts and Sims pump rebuild. Oh joy, several boat bucks on the plate.
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03-21-2016, 06:39 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Vermont
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhmeissner
Just sharing the pain....
Found out I need motor mounts and Sims pump rebuild. Oh joy, several boat bucks on the plate.
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"Sims Pump"? What's that?
__________________
MVTanglewood.com
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03-21-2016, 06:41 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Sorry, FL120 injector pump
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03-21-2016, 07:19 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Everett, WA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 38'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 801
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I had to do my motor mounts a few years back. Stressed on how to lift engine to swap them out (Perkins 135). I was actually able to do this pretty easily, using a 4' piece of Doug Fir 2x3 for leverage and blocking up off the stringers with a couple timbers. surprising how much leverage you can generate, plenty to lift up the front of a 1,300lb engine.
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03-21-2016, 07:31 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Here
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,940
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ouch ! we've all been there .... or will be
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03-21-2016, 08:31 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: South Florida
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,088
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Some mounts can be purchased unassembled. This allows for a saws-all to cut the existing stud between the mount and the bracket, removing the old mount and slipping the replacement in. Then thread the new stud into the new mount body and wait a few days before alignment.
This allows mount replacement without raising the engine more than 1/4-1/2" so you shouldn't have to disconnect much of anything.
Worth checking out
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03-21-2016, 10:36 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Everett, WA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 38'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keysdisease
Some mounts can be purchased unassembled. This allows for a saws-all to cut the existing stud between the mount and the bracket, removing the old mount and slipping the replacement in. Then thread the new stud into the new mount body and wait a few days before alignment.
This allows mount replacement without raising the engine more than 1/4-1/2" so you shouldn't have to disconnect much of anything.
Worth checking out
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On the Perkins, I was able to support the engine and unbolt the entire engine mounting bracket, sliding it sideways, and avoid trying to lift it up over and dropping it down over the new mount.
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03-21-2016, 10:51 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,569
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So, please tell me Dave...
Is/was it that the bolt/nut corroded, rubber mount went rotten, fastening[s] to the stringers loosen/spread their holes... or, some other item that went bad. Maybe all portions developed age related problems at same time. Just wondering!
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03-22-2016, 12:49 AM
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#9
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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So, Pat (from Pat's Marine Eng.) informed me 3 of 4 were shot. He said that sometime in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them. I don't know why someone would do that. I won't be doing this work myself, but the engine will stay in place.
In prepping for my trip north, I noticed the engine vibration seemed to be getting more than I was used to.
The injector work is overdue anyway, so I'm having this done now too.
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03-22-2016, 06:39 AM
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#10
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Guru
City: Rodney Bay Lagoon
Vessel Name: "Dragon Lady"
Vessel Model: DeFever 41
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Simmons
. . . I was actually able to do this pretty easily, using a 4' piece of Doug Fir 2x3 for leverage and blocking up off the stringers with a couple timbers. surprising how much leverage you can generate, plenty to lift up the front of a 1,300lb engine.
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The use of a small bottle-jack can sometimes come in handy for gaining a few inches of lift. Not against the hull of course, no metal/metal contact and blocks before fingers.
__________________
Mike
If all else fails, read the instructions
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
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03-22-2016, 07:13 AM
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#11
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhmeissner
So, Pat (from Pat's Marine Eng.) informed me 3 of 4 were shot. He said that sometime in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them. I don't know why someone would do that. I won't be doing this work myself, but the engine will stay in place.
In prepping for my trip north, I noticed the engine vibration seemed to be getting more than I was used to.
The injector work is overdue anyway, so I'm having this done now too.
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"... in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them."
Humm, sounds as though they were maybe loosening previously and welding was a stop gap measure??
I keep my engines' mounts all well lubed with P-Blaster
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03-22-2016, 07:18 AM
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#12
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,565
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Greetings,
Mr. A. As an aside, IF your mounts have a rubber component you may want to re-think the use of PB Blaster. The solvent component may degrade the rubber.
__________________
RTF
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03-22-2016, 08:37 AM
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#13
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly
Greetings,
Mr. A. As an aside, IF your mounts have a rubber component you may want to re-think the use of PB Blaster. The solvent component may degrade the rubber.
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Thought of that! So far so good! Let you know as decades pass.
Still the original eng mts form 1977. Rubber seems OK. Had PB on em since 2008. Not too much... just enough to keep metal items in good shape. I mist them about every three years.
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03-22-2016, 09:55 AM
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#14
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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Why are you rebuilding the Simms pump? Injectors I can see but the pump too?
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
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03-22-2016, 10:41 AM
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#15
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Mr. X, the oil is being displaced by the fuel, I get about 1 drip/sec of oil out of the overflow, I put the correct amount in. The sheen on the water out the exhaust has been getting worse over time. I'd like to keep pollution to a minimum.
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03-22-2016, 11:07 AM
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#16
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Guru
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Vessel Name: Moana Huaka'i
Vessel Model: Selene 53
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 816
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I feel your pain! We just put in new motor mounts ourselves last month. For us it was more of a why not since we had to rebuild the engine and they certainly were not in top shape.
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03-22-2016, 11:40 AM
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#17
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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DH, Its common for the Simms pump to "make oil" which is why it is recommended to toss the overflow pipe and drill a hole in the filler cap for a vent. If you can't go the recommended oil change interval with this mod then it is time to rebuild. You could also just add a catch bottle connected to the overflow.
The fuel on the water is 1. Characteristic of the Lehman; 2. Can be mitigated to some extent by rebuilding your injectors
but it will NOT be eliminated. The rebuilt injectors ease starting and some smoking but not the fuel in the water. This is NOT caused by your Simms pump.
IMHO, you are getting bad advice about your Simms and should get another opinion. I think its a waste of money rebuilding it.
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
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03-22-2016, 06:31 PM
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#18
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,149
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My engine has at least 2200 hours on the Simms pump. It might actually have many more hours on it as it was a cobbled together long block by the PO.
It makes zero oil still. I have heard the same from other owners with similar and even more hours on the pump.
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03-22-2016, 06:41 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Mr.X, thanks, I get that the sheen could not be directly from the pump, but injector rebuild.
Mr.PS, thanks for the data point. I have inquired on Boat Diesel to see what they say there.
Since this is a 42 year old boat with the original engine, and I am uncertain of the actual engine hrs. (meter says 1490 but that's unlikely), I'm tempted to let the mechanic, who has a good reputation, have at it. But I will have another talk with him before proceeding (with the pump).
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03-22-2016, 06:44 PM
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#20
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Guru
City: Groton, CT
Vessel Name: Datenight
Vessel Model: North Pacific 45
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,106
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Dave,
In the old boat after removing the engine hatches I built an H frame. Used a come along to lift the front a bit, replaced the the mounts. The jack method worked well in the rear with a piece of 2 x under and over.
Good luck,
Rob
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North Pacific 45
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