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Old 03-21-2016, 07:37 PM   #1
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Oh boy

Just sharing the pain....

Found out I need motor mounts and Sims pump rebuild. Oh joy, several boat bucks on the plate.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:39 PM   #2
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Just sharing the pain....

Found out I need motor mounts and Sims pump rebuild. Oh joy, several boat bucks on the plate.
"Sims Pump"? What's that?
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:41 PM   #3
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Sorry, FL120 injector pump
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:19 PM   #4
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I had to do my motor mounts a few years back. Stressed on how to lift engine to swap them out (Perkins 135). I was actually able to do this pretty easily, using a 4' piece of Doug Fir 2x3 for leverage and blocking up off the stringers with a couple timbers. surprising how much leverage you can generate, plenty to lift up the front of a 1,300lb engine.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:31 PM   #5
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ouch ! we've all been there .... or will be
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:31 PM   #6
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Some mounts can be purchased unassembled. This allows for a saws-all to cut the existing stud between the mount and the bracket, removing the old mount and slipping the replacement in. Then thread the new stud into the new mount body and wait a few days before alignment.

This allows mount replacement without raising the engine more than 1/4-1/2" so you shouldn't have to disconnect much of anything.

Worth checking out

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Old 03-21-2016, 11:36 PM   #7
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Some mounts can be purchased unassembled. This allows for a saws-all to cut the existing stud between the mount and the bracket, removing the old mount and slipping the replacement in. Then thread the new stud into the new mount body and wait a few days before alignment.

This allows mount replacement without raising the engine more than 1/4-1/2" so you shouldn't have to disconnect much of anything.

Worth checking out

On the Perkins, I was able to support the engine and unbolt the entire engine mounting bracket, sliding it sideways, and avoid trying to lift it up over and dropping it down over the new mount.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:51 PM   #8
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So, please tell me Dave...

Is/was it that the bolt/nut corroded, rubber mount went rotten, fastening[s] to the stringers loosen/spread their holes... or, some other item that went bad. Maybe all portions developed age related problems at same time. Just wondering!
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:49 AM   #9
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So, Pat (from Pat's Marine Eng.) informed me 3 of 4 were shot. He said that sometime in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them. I don't know why someone would do that. I won't be doing this work myself, but the engine will stay in place.

In prepping for my trip north, I noticed the engine vibration seemed to be getting more than I was used to.

The injector work is overdue anyway, so I'm having this done now too.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:39 AM   #10
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. . . I was actually able to do this pretty easily, using a 4' piece of Doug Fir 2x3 for leverage and blocking up off the stringers with a couple timbers. surprising how much leverage you can generate, plenty to lift up the front of a 1,300lb engine.
The use of a small bottle-jack can sometimes come in handy for gaining a few inches of lift. Not against the hull of course, no metal/metal contact and blocks before fingers.
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:13 AM   #11
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So, Pat (from Pat's Marine Eng.) informed me 3 of 4 were shot. He said that sometime in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them. I don't know why someone would do that. I won't be doing this work myself, but the engine will stay in place.

In prepping for my trip north, I noticed the engine vibration seemed to be getting more than I was used to.

The injector work is overdue anyway, so I'm having this done now too.
"... in the past that (unbelievably) someone used a welder on them."

Humm, sounds as though they were maybe loosening previously and welding was a stop gap measure??

I keep my engines' mounts all well lubed with P-Blaster
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:18 AM   #12
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Greetings,
Mr. A. As an aside, IF your mounts have a rubber component you may want to re-think the use of PB Blaster. The solvent component may degrade the rubber.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:37 AM   #13
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Greetings,
Mr. A. As an aside, IF your mounts have a rubber component you may want to re-think the use of PB Blaster. The solvent component may degrade the rubber.
Thought of that! So far so good! Let you know as decades pass.

Still the original eng mts form 1977. Rubber seems OK. Had PB on em since 2008. Not too much... just enough to keep metal items in good shape. I mist them about every three years.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:55 AM   #14
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Why are you rebuilding the Simms pump? Injectors I can see but the pump too?
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:41 AM   #15
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Mr. X, the oil is being displaced by the fuel, I get about 1 drip/sec of oil out of the overflow, I put the correct amount in. The sheen on the water out the exhaust has been getting worse over time. I'd like to keep pollution to a minimum.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:07 PM   #16
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I feel your pain! We just put in new motor mounts ourselves last month. For us it was more of a why not since we had to rebuild the engine and they certainly were not in top shape.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:40 PM   #17
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DH, Its common for the Simms pump to "make oil" which is why it is recommended to toss the overflow pipe and drill a hole in the filler cap for a vent. If you can't go the recommended oil change interval with this mod then it is time to rebuild. You could also just add a catch bottle connected to the overflow.

The fuel on the water is 1. Characteristic of the Lehman; 2. Can be mitigated to some extent by rebuilding your injectors
but it will NOT be eliminated. The rebuilt injectors ease starting and some smoking but not the fuel in the water. This is NOT caused by your Simms pump.

IMHO, you are getting bad advice about your Simms and should get another opinion. I think its a waste of money rebuilding it.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:31 PM   #18
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My engine has at least 2200 hours on the Simms pump. It might actually have many more hours on it as it was a cobbled together long block by the PO.

It makes zero oil still. I have heard the same from other owners with similar and even more hours on the pump.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:41 PM   #19
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Mr.X, thanks, I get that the sheen could not be directly from the pump, but injector rebuild.
Mr.PS, thanks for the data point. I have inquired on Boat Diesel to see what they say there.

Since this is a 42 year old boat with the original engine, and I am uncertain of the actual engine hrs. (meter says 1490 but that's unlikely), I'm tempted to let the mechanic, who has a good reputation, have at it. But I will have another talk with him before proceeding (with the pump).
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:44 PM   #20
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Dave,

In the old boat after removing the engine hatches I built an H frame. Used a come along to lift the front a bit, replaced the the mounts. The jack method worked well in the rear with a piece of 2 x under and over.

Good luck,

Rob
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