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Old 06-28-2015, 08:48 PM   #1
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Need help with over heating.

I have a 1982 40 foot Albin Trawler. Powered by a single Volvo TAMD40A. Engine starts and runs great from idle to 2700 rpm, temp is 180. At 2800 rpm temp goes to 185 anything above 2800 rpm temp keeps rising. I have let it get as hot as 195 before slowing to 2600 rpm. Engine doesn't make black smoke at any speed. I have taken apart and cleaned heat exchanger, changed impeller, I have cleaned the fresh water side of the cooling system by running an approved cleaner through the engine for a hour. Can anyone tell me if I might be missing to do something??? Prop size is a 24X18 three blade.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:51 PM   #2
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What is the operating temp spec?


My Cat 3208s were designed to run 195...some newer Cats run over 200 I am pretty sure.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:52 PM   #3
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I'm not an expert by any means, but 195 at 2800 rpm would not concern me if when slowing down, the temp drops quickly.

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Old 06-28-2015, 08:55 PM   #4
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Have you checked the heat exchanger(s). Open them up and see if any of them is partially blocked.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:56 PM   #5
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When I first bought our Nova sundeck with twin VOLVO TMD40s, we had the same problem. I finally removed the tube that runs from the salt water pump to the oil cooler and found it impacted with salt, as the PO never used the boat. That was 15 years ago and have not had that problem since as the boat does not "sit."
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:03 PM   #6
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I used to have a pair of TMD40s. I don't know if the TAMD40 has the same heat exchanger, (HE) but assuming so, this is what I found:
On the aft end of the HE, there is a black rubber cover with molded in hose attachments (boot). Inside, that boot has a centered slot in the piece of rubber that separates the top section from the bottom section. The brass end of the dividing part of the HE slips into this slot. In higher RPM conditions, the water pressure is sufficient to distort the rubber and blow coolant past the separating brass piece, so that coolant doesn't travel through the 100+ tiny tubes in the HE, but immediately goes to the exit hose and out of the HE, uncooled and back into the engine. I replaced the rubber piece and had instant relief from this condition, only to have it return when the newer boot started doing the same thing a few years later.
Replace yours and you should get relief. I solved the problem completely by swapping in a pair of TAMD41s that have a better HE design.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:04 PM   #7
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What temperature is your thermostat set to open at?
Did you clean and back flush all your coolers?
Is the thru hull to your strainer clean/clear?
Have you confirmed the temperatures you see on the gauge with a mechanical gauge or IR temp. gun?
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:05 PM   #8
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Yes Pelican the heat exchangers were opened an I passed a brass rod through all the tubes.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver View Post
I used to have a pair of TMD40s. I don't know if the TAMD40 has the same heat exchanger, (HE) but assuming so, this is what I found:
On the aft end of the HE, there is a black rubber cover with molded in hose attachments (boot). Inside, that boot has a centered slot in the piece of rubber that separates the top section from the bottom section. The brass end of the dividing part of the HE slips into this slot. In higher RPM conditions, the water pressure is sufficient to distort the rubber and blow coolant past the separating brass piece, so that coolant doesn't travel through the 100+ tiny tubes in the HE, but immediately goes to the exit hose and out of the HE, uncooled and back into the engine. I replaced the rubber piece and had instant relief from this condition, only to have it return when the newer boot started doing the same thing a few years later.
Replace yours and you should get relief. I solved the problem completely by swapping in a pair of TAMD41s that have a better HE design.
THX for the quick reply. You have given me a direction to look and maybe an inexpensive fix.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:18 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by POPPA-T View Post
THX for the quick reply. You have given me a direction to look and maybe an inexpensive fix.
Hopefully!. I have that engine (2002 model P) in my boat and the Previous owner had the exact problem at 1400 hours.. From the logs, He did all the cleaning, rodding etc of the exchangers and still had an issue. Turned out to be a failing temperature sensor. Replacement cured the problem..I'm sure the other stuff didn't hurt!
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:14 AM   #11
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195 is not a hateful temp. Diesels run better when hot. I'm' not familiar with the engine, but 2800 sounds close to wide open throttle where one would expect the temp to creep up.

I had a similar issue Heron described, but it was in my dash gauge, and a faulty wiring connection that caused an over heat alarm. The wire was loose on the spade, and was causing the needle to jump around on the high side.

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Old 06-29-2015, 07:26 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by POPPA-T View Post
THX for the quick reply. You have given me a direction to look and maybe an inexpensive fix.

Check that the thru hull to your strainer is clear and check that the temps you are seeing are true before you start buying and randomly replacing things.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:29 AM   #13
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When did you last replace your coolant? It does wear out, you know?
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:51 AM   #14
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Wear out ? Even if it did "wear out" it wouldnt cause overheating.
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:04 AM   #15
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195 is not a hateful temp. Diesels run better when hot. I'm' not familiar with the engine, but 2800 sounds close to wide open throttle where one would expect the temp to creep up.
Actually Max RPM on this motor is 3600, with cruise at 80%, that's 2880. Mine runs about 185 degrees at that speed..
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:34 AM   #16
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As Bill said verify the strainer and scoop are clean then look at the next thing upstream and the hose in between. Junk can travel through the system but the first small opening will usually catch it and block flow. Also look for previously missed impeller blades that may travel.. Lastly and least likely check the exhaust shower mixer. Rust can block holes and cause reduced flow.
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:40 AM   #17
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I have long time experience with the TAMD40s. The exhaust elbow can be a huge problem. If it is mostly blocked the saltwater system will pressurize and distort that rubber end cap Koliver talked about. Your two pass heat exchanger becomes no pass. Also you need to make sure the oil cooler and after cooler are also clean. Take them off and run dowels through them. Check for zinc sludge in all the heat exchangers. Once you get the entire seawater system clean the engine will run about 170 degrees and then 180 degrees because there are two thermostats. My engines run a rock solid 180 degrees in the 2000 to 3500 rpm range. Good luck. The TAMD40s are great engines.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:03 AM   #18
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Any steam when you are running up at 2800 rpms, what rpms does the boat get up to at wide open throttle?
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:09 AM   #19
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Yes, in a diesel, worn out coolant can cause overheating. Do the research.

Why else would you bother replacing it, otherwise?
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:25 AM   #20
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Yes, in a diesel, worn out coolant can cause overheating. Do the research.

Why else would you bother replacing it, otherwise?
Depletion of corrosion inhibitors, which can be added.
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