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Old 06-29-2015, 11:44 AM   #21
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Re the boot problem: I got a piece of sheet brass and folded it over the part that projects into the boot adding 3/32" to the projection. Epoxied it in place and problem solved. That was fifteen years ago and it's still workin'.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:58 AM   #22
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My Ford truck (diesel) is a 2000 year model and has never had the antifreeze changed or even added to for that matter. Thats 15 years. It doesnt look worn to me. I think I'll keep running it awhile longer.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:46 PM   #23
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Good luck with your old coolant.
"When water and coolant in your engine heats and expands, air bubbles are formed from localized boiling. The general term we often use is cavitation. The scientfic term for that specific localized boiling I mentioned is nucleate boiling. – I can’t believe I found a picture of this! These bubbles collapse or explode against the outside of the cylinder liners and take a portion of the steel with it. This is called cavitation erosion. These little bubbles are imploding at the cylinder liners at pressures up to 50,000+ psi. They start blasting into the cast iron liner and causing a “pitting process” that continues over and over until they tunnel their way into the combustion side of the cylinder. If coolant enters the combustion side of the cylinder you’re looking at an engine rebuild with a bore and resleeve job. Enter SCAs - Supplemental Coolant Additives – recommended maintenance for your Ford Powerstroke cooling system. What they are in a nutshell is a liquid poured into your cooling system at a recommended interval. A chemical reaction caused by heat and metal contact causes the liquid to become a solid "scale" as it coats the outside of the steel cylinder liners. This "scale" creates a sacrificial liner that is removed by the tiny explosion of collapsing bubbles instead of the steel cylinder liner. So the theory is that the pitting of the liner won’t occur. In order to replace the void and the displaced scale that was removed upon implosion, you must have residual unconverted SCA (liquid form) still floating around in the system. The displaced scale is now an abrasive partical floating around in your system which stays there until flush time. All the while these little pieces of abrasive scale are wearing at water pumps, hoses, insides of radiators, etc."
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:52 PM   #24
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Sure...cavitation erosion...


I studied it like mad when I bought my powerstroke and then switched to OAT antifreeze.


...but not overheating...had a friend loose an early powerstroke
to cavitation erosion...never saw it coming....certainly not high coolant temp


Also never heard of overheating from just "old" coolant...other issues yes...just not overheating.


Also I think I read cavitation erosion isn't common in all diesels....especially the older, heavy metal, lower compression ones.


http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...on-erosion-r27


Cavitation erosion is a phenomenon that is well known with relation to diesel engines. Cavitation is the formation of vapor bubbles of a flowing liquid in a region where the pressure of the liquid falls below its vapor pressure. Erosion is the result of the formed vapor bubbles rapidly collapsing which produces a shock wave that can remove small amounts of metal from cylinder walls. As this process repeats pitting of the metal will occur and over time holes will form. Irregularities in the metal surfaces from casting or machining and the cavities from the erosion process itself encourage the formation of these vapor bubbles.


Yes hot coolant...but within specs...it's the low pressure area that causes the "low pressure boiling"...not high engine temp.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:57 PM   #25
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Thats all well and good, and maybe they sold a bunch of there snake oil to counter the effects. I dont use it. I do use Nalcool in my Detroits, for no reason other than thats what I was taught. Just FYI, the PowerStroke diesel engine doesnt have liners, its a parent bore block.
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:03 PM   #26
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My boat is keel cooled, has almost 200 litres of coolant. I also have a commercial duty Cummins. Running at full throttle (it is rated full throttle 24 hours) I would get the coolant temperature rising until I throttled back (throttle is the wrong term) and coolant overflowing the overflow bottle. I immediately replaced all the coolant and now full throttle has no temperature rise and the coolant level stays constant.

It really matters nothing to me if anyone wish to abuse your engines. I would refer you to the "finding a good mechanic" thread.
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:08 PM   #27
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You may be over propped if your engines won't reach their specified wot rpm. My specified wot is 3000, I was getting 2800 with year old anti fouling the way the boat is normally loaded. It would start getting warmer (180f-190f) at any rpm over 2600. I swapped the 20x22 props for 20x20 and the temp is rock steady at 170f at 2800 cruising RPM. I normally run 1000 to 1600 depending on conditions and current on the river and temps run 160f. The thing to remember with a diesel is the governor controls the fuel delivery when you set the throttles, in a over propped or overloaded condition the governor will increase fuel to maintain the rpm. More fuel = more heat to dissipate. This will also cause a increase in EGT which is detrimental to engine life. Make sure your engines are in proper tune, tachs are correct and that you can reach specified wot rpm. Good luck


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Old 06-29-2015, 02:00 PM   #28
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I dont need a good mechanic, I are one. 200 liters of coolant,wow, thats a lot. I definitely would never change that much. In a previous life, back when I was a heavy equipment/ag tractor mechanic, the big 4wd tractors like Stiegers and some Fords used the Big Cam Cummins 855 rated from 350 to 550 HP. After a lot of research it was determined by Ford that they did in fact have erosion/cavitation issues. IIRC it was from the different metal of the liner and the block and the interaction with the coolant. Southern tractors that ran straight water with corrosion abatement additives didnt have those problems.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:02 PM   #29
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Buying the additive package for 200 litres was more expensive, or at least comparable to replacing the coolant.
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:20 PM   #30
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You don't say but this must be a new phenomenon, in that case you are correct to be concerned.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:34 PM   #31
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THX to all for the reply's. While most of the things mentioned by all of you has been done there some things I have not tried yet. I will be making a short two day trip on the fourth. If there is time I may try one or two of them. THX again and I will keep you all posted as to the out come.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:16 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heron View Post
Actually Max RPM on this motor is 3600, with cruise at 80%, that's 2880. Mine runs about 185 degrees at that speed..
I don't really have much to add to this thread other than to be careful about making linear relationships with RPM and percentages of power. That is exactly what you did there. And with a turbocharged engine, it is likely wrong. Wrong in your favor(conservative) but likely wrong nonetheless. Even with an NA engine the power curves aren't linear. Anyway, the only way to know is look in the manual.

PS....it IS 80% of available RPMs but likely not 80% of rated power.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:37 AM   #33
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Poppa,

Here's a link to a post about the Barnacle Buster I PMed you about yesterday. Your symptoms sound a lot like mine. Hope this helps.

Barnacle Buster-Magic Elixir
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:23 AM   #34
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A previous poster mentioned the thermostats.
Check the easy stuff first, and go to boatdiesel.com for more info.
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:42 AM   #35
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Overheat in these engines is rarely because of the coolant side. First check that you have seawater flow out the exhaust. The oil cooler is first in line after the pump and needs to be clean because it removes about 1/3 of the heat. The aftercooler is next and you want to check the bottom because it can fill with sludge from used zincs restricting the flow. next is the heat exchanger. Flow enters the back and goes down half of the tubes and turns around and comes back making the heat exchanger a two pass unit. As was described in an earlier post if the rear rubber cap is distorted seawater will bypass the heat exchanger and exit without cooling. The last problem area is the exhaust elbow. If it is not clean it provides the back pressure to distort the rubber cup on the back of the heat exchanger. When the cooling systems of these engines are clean and the thermostats working these engines will operate at a maximum rock solid 180 degrees all the way to WOT.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:48 PM   #36
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You say you inspected the heat exchanger tubes. Then you said that you flushed the fresh water side for an hour. That is not long enough for most flush treatments. NAPA has a Diesel engine flush that you run, WITHOUT the thermostat installed, for six to eight hours. Then the water drains out the color of coffee. The fresh water side will scale over, especially if you use the Yellow antifreeze. Should use NAPAs diesel antifreeze. Anyway, the flush brought my engine temps down where they belonged.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:56 PM   #37
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A coolant filter is a useful device - my Cummins has one that I change each year.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:14 PM   #38
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Again THX to everyone for the replies. I got a chance last week to change the rubber boot. I found the old one had flexed out of position. Installed new boot. Got to try out today, results 2500 rpm 150 degrees. WOT 180 degrees. Next time I have engine problems I know who to contact.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:04 PM   #39
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Great to hear, Poppa-T! Looks like we have a winner.....Koliver!

Post #6

Trawler Forum - View Single Post - Need help with over heating.
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:19 PM   #40
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You are welcome Poppa T.

Nice to see my experience has helped someone else.

Now if I could stop being the Guinea pig and get bored by having no issues on my own boat.
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