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11-16-2019, 10:21 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Vessel Model: Currently Boatless
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 397
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Naiad Stabilizer Shaft Seals
Hi everyone,
I have 1991 Naiad stabilizers on my vessel and the shaft seals seem to be weeping sea water just a bit. Looks like it’s time for new seals. Just wondering what others have paid to have this done while hauled out at the yard?
I don’t want to get ripped off.
I’ve seen YouTube videos on how they remove the fins. Looks like specialized equipment.
Thank you for your input.
Taras
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11-16-2019, 10:25 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Italy
Vessel Name: Didi Mau
Vessel Model: Currently looking for next boat
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,081
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I have ABT Trac. If i get sea water in the boat, that would mean water had entered into the lube oil and I would now have saltwater on the bearings. On my boat, seals keep seawater from 90 weight oil and bearings, and the oil out of the boat.
Gordon
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11-16-2019, 10:39 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Where are you located?Perhaps we can recommend a yard or tech from prior experience. Costs depend on part of country and what else they find out when they are in there. If you are seeing water that is potentially a bad sign, replacing the seals every few years is a necessary PM item, not a reaction-driven thing. It's been awhile since I had a boat with 252's and I don't recall what I paid, but it was just a PM item and I don't recall it being all that expensive. Some guys get the equipment and DIY.... there's an old discussion on the Hatteras Owners Forum on that.
You can call Naiad and discuss as well.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-16-2019, 10:46 AM
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#4
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,541
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Greetings,
Mr. T. We had Naiad seals done at the Hinkley yard in Thunderbolt, GA about 8 years ago. $5K, IF I recall correctly. Seals and bearings. No problems since and dry as a bone.
__________________
RTF
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11-16-2019, 02:20 PM
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#5
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,121
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Had my Niaids removed and seals done 2x in 2006 (Ft Lauderdale) and again in 2010 (Fall River). Cost about $1K in Ft Lauderdale and a bit more because of travel time in Massachusetts. Both jobs were routine with no problem before and none after. Sounds like you have a bigger problem if seawater is leaking into the boat.
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11-17-2019, 11:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Vessel Model: Currently Boatless
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 397
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If sea water is weeping slightly past the seal and into the boat (very small amount), I’m assuming that there is a chance the shaft on the fin may corrode?
Is that the potential problem?
We’ve had this boat for 2 years and plan a haul out soon. What other potential problems could result from a leaky seal?
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11-17-2019, 12:23 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Long island
Vessel Model: Eastern
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 632
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A friend had them done last year. The fins were stuck and I mean stuck. They had to cut away the glass so they could get torches on the shaft. $12k later they were finished
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11-17-2019, 01:30 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taras
If sea water is weeping slightly past the seal and into the boat (very small amount), I’m assuming that there is a chance the shaft on the fin may corrode?
Is that the potential problem?
We’ve had this boat for 2 years and plan a haul out soon. What other potential problems could result from a leaky seal?
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Corrosion to the bearings and races.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-17-2019, 01:55 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly
Greetings,
Mr. T. We had Naiad seals done at the Hinkley yard in Thunderbolt, GA about 8 years ago. $5K, IF I recall correctly. Seals and bearings. No problems since and dry as a bone.
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You are way past due for a PM on those things. You might not have intrusion all the way into the interior of the boat that you can see, but the seawater can very likely be diluting and destroying the lubrication protecting the shaft. This is really not something you, your boat or your bank account want to take chances on, I don't think.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-17-2019, 04:32 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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My failed memory seems to suggest, the seals must be replaced every 5 years???? Do not rely on my memory.
Best advice, call NAIAD
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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11-17-2019, 04:50 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldDan1943
My failed memory seems to suggest, the seals must be replaced every 5 years???? Do not rely on my memory.
Best advice, call NAIAD
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3 years or 4000 hours whichever comes first.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-17-2019, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc
3 years or 4000 hours whichever comes first.
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I stand corrected.
WE assume the 4000 hours is hours of use and not sitting tied to the dock?
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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11-17-2019, 06:42 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldDan1943
I stand corrected.
WE assume the 4000 hours is hours of use and not sitting tied to the dock?
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Seeing as there are 8760 hours in a year.....
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-20-2019, 09:41 PM
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#14
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Veteran Member
City: Green Cove Springs
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 83
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Outer Shaft Seals are just under $30 and you need two per side. Crush Washers are about the same and you need four per side but you may be up for a bit more depending on how the shafts and bearings are.
Funnily enough if you don’t use your stabilisers Naiad recommend changing the seals more often.
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11-21-2019, 08:26 AM
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#15
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGel
Outer Shaft Seals are just under $30 and you need two per side. Crush Washers are about the same and you need four per side but you may be up for a bit more depending on how the shafts and bearings are.
Funnily enough if you don’t use your stabilisers Naiad recommend changing the seals more often.
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You should always have them on when under way regardless of conditions. Center them when docking or in reverse.
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11-22-2019, 04:13 PM
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#16
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Veteran Member
City: Green Cove Springs
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 83
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In particular basis for this advice? I have never heard this before.
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11-22-2019, 04:58 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Naiad, for one. But what happens is if you do not have the stabilizers on they will flop around a lot, every which way while underway. You can see why when the boat is out of the water, you can move the fins around easily by hand. When the stabilizers are on, in calm conditions, they will stay in place until a roll situation actuates them. Also helps fuel efficiency a little, less drag.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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11-22-2019, 05:38 PM
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#18
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Veteran Member
City: Green Cove Springs
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc
Naiad, for one. But what happens is if you do not have the stabilizers on they will flop around a lot, every which way while underway. You can see why when the boat is out of the water, you can move the fins around easily by hand. When the stabilizers are on, in calm conditions, they will stay in place until a roll situation actuates them. Also helps fuel efficiency a little, less drag.
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Ok got it. I think you will find that NAIAD recommend different things for different systems. i.e. Some use engine oil some use hydraulic fluid. Later ones with auto lock don’t flop around when centered. If they are properly rigged you shouldn’t use more fuel when they are centered. In fact we go faster with them off and if I turn them off completely I save even more fuel.
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11-22-2019, 06:41 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGel
Ok got it. I think you will find that NAIAD recommend different things for different systems. i.e. Some use engine oil some use hydraulic fluid. Later ones with auto lock don’t flop around when centered. If they are properly rigged you shouldn’t use more fuel when they are centered. In fact we go faster with them off and if I turn them off completely I save even more fuel.
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Which system do you have exactly? I am referring to my experience with 252s and others from that family.
Of course the easiest route is to RTFM and consult with the vendor when in doubt
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11-22-2019, 08:29 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Vessel Model: Currently Boatless
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 397
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I appreciate everyone’s responses thus far. I’ll definitely replace the shaft seals at my haul out. So if my bearings are a bit corroded, is that an expensive fix? Anyone have experience with that process?
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