Motor mount brand
- Thread starter meridian
- Start date
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Nomad Willy
Guru
Pgitug,
I’m think’in the misalignment of the whole mount is unacceptable. See the rubber part is way off alignment. No wonder they needed replacement.
Those fender washers shouldn’t have been used. They are for soft materials. They probably pushed the two screws/bolts outboard fore and aft. If they aren’t bolts the holes will probably need to be drilled a size up and re-tapped.
meridian,
The English R&D mounts are good and may be a fit-in. The mounting “foot” and the mount needs to be aligned.
I’m think’in the misalignment of the whole mount is unacceptable. See the rubber part is way off alignment. No wonder they needed replacement.
Those fender washers shouldn’t have been used. They are for soft materials. They probably pushed the two screws/bolts outboard fore and aft. If they aren’t bolts the holes will probably need to be drilled a size up and re-tapped.
meridian,
The English R&D mounts are good and may be a fit-in. The mounting “foot” and the mount needs to be aligned.
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OldDan1943
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- American Tug 34 #116 2008
I concur, I have never seen a motor mount mounted like that. Has the boat been re-powered with a different brand or size engine? If nothing else, get some techs in there to properly align the engine, drill new holes for the motor mount and plug up the other holes. You are not doing yourself any good, running with a motor mount under such a strain.
OldDan1943
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I would encourage you to have them professionally installed so the engine is properly aligned. No need to compound a problem or create a problem in the future.
AusCan
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- Kokanee
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Installing them yourself and aligning the engine is not difficult, but it takes time and you must be a perfectionist. Use hydraulic jack (or two) under the oil pan with a large block(s) to spread the load evenly .
All four engine mounts must have equal load will no side stress.
I found that the easiest method was to do a course engine alignment with the mounts attached to the engine, but not to the stringer or mounting rail. With the mounts sitting flat make the height adjustment with the bottom nuts and slide the engine side to side if required for lateral adjustments.
Then drill the engine mount holes in the stringer if necessary and tighten it up.
Then check the alignment again, and make any fine adjustments required.
The final adjustment and alignment check must be done in the water as the boat will flex differently in water compared to on the hard.
All four engine mounts must have equal load will no side stress.
I found that the easiest method was to do a course engine alignment with the mounts attached to the engine, but not to the stringer or mounting rail. With the mounts sitting flat make the height adjustment with the bottom nuts and slide the engine side to side if required for lateral adjustments.
Then drill the engine mount holes in the stringer if necessary and tighten it up.
Then check the alignment again, and make any fine adjustments required.
The final adjustment and alignment check must be done in the water as the boat will flex differently in water compared to on the hard.
FF
Guru
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- Oct 12, 2007
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- 22,552
The mounts must be chosen with the flex of the drive taken into account.
"Soft" mounts can allow more engine movement than the shaft can stand , and require soft flexible exhaust , fuel and wiring .
Sometimes an "upgrade" can be harmful.
"Soft" mounts can allow more engine movement than the shaft can stand , and require soft flexible exhaust , fuel and wiring .
Sometimes an "upgrade" can be harmful.
OldDan1943
Guru
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- American Tug 34 #116 2008
The more I look at it the more I am beginning to believe someone sold him "any old part".
The angle of the bolts is a dead give away.
Keysdisease
Guru
The hole in the bottom of the base (black box) is probably so you can put a tool in it and see if the spindle is bottomed out or not.
One thing that is common but not at all recommended of using the stud as an adjuster. All the thrust from the propeller is transferred through these engine mounts, and by the engine bracket being jacked up the stud the thrust is being transferred to a lever instead of the a fastener in shear.
The mount should be shimmed or / and an adjuster on top should be used.
One thing that is common but not at all recommended of using the stud as an adjuster. All the thrust from the propeller is transferred through these engine mounts, and by the engine bracket being jacked up the stud the thrust is being transferred to a lever instead of the a fastener in shear.
The mount should be shimmed or / and an adjuster on top should be used.
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