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Old 09-20-2019, 03:25 PM   #1
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Mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Im installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge, by putting in a brass tee fitting along with the oil pressure sending unit. Ive got a brass tee, a 3 grease fitting line (rated 3600 psi) a reducer fitting and a oil filled pressure gauge. Total cost is $25. I asked the guy if this gauge was appropriate for this use and he said yes. Working pressure will be ~50 psi. Is this gauge ok or do I need an automotive one?

Also, the gauge has an instruction on it to cut off a rubber seal a the top, which I find is odd.

Jim

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Old 09-20-2019, 03:41 PM   #2
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I'm doing the same thing ... using a car oil gauge kit I got from Auto Zone, about the same cost (minus the T, I've got to find of those).
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:01 PM   #3
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I got everything at Greenline Hose and Fittings, in Vancouver British Columbia. They have been very helpful for me in the past. There should be a similar outfit for you where you are (FL), I would imagine. These places are Industrial concerns and sell hydraulic hoses and various fittings for liquids and gases. Seriously, I was stunned that this set up was only $25.
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:04 PM   #4
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Don't use a brass nipple to connect the tee to the block. They can fatigue fracture. Use steel there.
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:35 PM   #5
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Mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Thanks Ski. I can make that change. Everything is only hand tight right now. Any thoughts on the gauge?

Jim
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Old 09-21-2019, 06:11 AM   #6
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IF you install a Murphy Switch Gauge you can set it to any pressure , below which it can ring an alarm.


About $45, plus the alarm.
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Old 09-21-2019, 08:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCAVE View Post
Im installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge, by putting in a brass tee fitting along with the oil pressure sending unit. Ive got a brass tee, a 3 grease fitting line (rated 3600 psi) a reducer fitting and a oil filled pressure gauge. Total cost is $25. I asked the guy if this gauge was appropriate for this use and he said yes. Working pressure will be ~50 psi. Is this gauge ok or do I need an automotive one?

Also, the gauge has an instruction on it to cut off a rubber seal a the top, which I find is odd.

Jim

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It makes me happy to see you used a quality line to connect the guage. I have had those copper capillary tubes break and leak oil.
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:37 AM   #8
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Gauge looks fine. Liquid filled so that damps pressure pulses. Range might be a bit high (100psi) but that's ok.

You can get a steel machined nipple from a hydraulic shop for a couple bucks, well worth it. I have dealt with an engine with wiped bearings from when a cheap nipple fractured. Once the thing broke off, it lost the ground for the oil pressure alarm, so alarm never sounded. Not pretty.
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Old 09-21-2019, 10:05 AM   #9
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Yup, thanks Ski. Id rather learn someone elses lesson. Everything is closed this weekend, so Ill pick one up Monday. The nipples on the grease whip is brass as well. Are those a concern as well, or just the brass tee?

FF: I still have a low oil alarm that is attached to the ignition switch. It sounds when I turn on the ignition and when I shut down the engine.
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:03 AM   #10
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"FF: I still have a low oil alarm that is attached to the ignition switch. It sounds when I turn on the ignition and when I shut down the engine."

That will let you know when the oil pressure is below 5PSI or whatever it was set for.

A Murphy Gauge will allow you to set your gauge to any setting , so if you normally see 40PSI cruising you can set the gauge to say 35PSI and not wipe the engine at cruise RPM.

They make mechanical temperature alarm gauges too.
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:55 AM   #11
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Hi JD,

I also put in a mechanical oil pressure gauge this summer. It was a Bosche from Advance Auto Parts, $19.95. I used a brass tee but will change to steel after reading Ski's advise.

Pressure was dropping as the engine ran. Turned out to be a bad sender. I replaced the sender but like the belt and suspenders of mechanical and electric.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:17 AM   #12
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Ski's advice to use steel rather than brass is wise advice. With the weight of that sensor and of the hose being supported by the nipple portion threaded into the block, engine vibration will work harden the brass and it will fracture. I know this from experience. NO brass!
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Old 09-22-2019, 09:52 AM   #13
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The brass tee is ok. The nipple where it screws into the engine is the concern, it should be steel.
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:15 AM   #14
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The brass tee is ok. The nipple where it screws into the engine is the concern, it should be steel.
This explain me why my oil pressure senders are screwed into a brass tee, itself screwed into a iron nipple, itself screwed in the engine block. I was wondering why the builder did that

L
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Old 09-22-2019, 12:06 PM   #15
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Jim:

Have you figured out how you’re going to mount the gauge? We bought a Equus dual panel mount (part #: 9922) when we did ours. We also added temperature when we did the oil. Equus also makes a single and triple mount.
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Old 09-22-2019, 01:27 PM   #16
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Larry: I thought Id just tastefully mount it on a piece of starboard, afixed to the beam supporting the hatch combing. I will use a bracket to hold the gauge at the position of the reducer fitting. This fitting is fairly thick stainless and can easily hold the gauge in a rigid position.

Its shame this grease whip has brass nipples. I will see if they can make up the equivalent with steel nipples

Jim
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:32 PM   #17
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The hose with brass nipples should be ok too. The problem with the brass is the nipple that screwed into the block must support the mass of the tee, sender and some of the hose. And in an environ where it is lively with vibration. The brass nipples tend to also be thin wall. If you could find a thick wall nipple, that would be ok too. The hose ends probably have thick wall fittings (small hole in center).
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Old 09-23-2019, 03:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
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The brass tee is ok. The nipple where it screws into the engine is the concern, it should be steel.
The fitting in the picture is an all-brass street T. That's why I said NO brass. A brass T fitted to a simple steel nipple works but more simple alternative is a steel street T.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:28 AM   #19
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The fitting in the picture is an all-brass street T. That's why I said NO brass. A brass T fitted to a simple steel nipple works but more simple alternative is a steel street T.

Thanks Ski, Cat Jack. Im going to get a steel street tee, for sure, and if they can make up a hydraulic hose with steel nipples, Ill get that otherwise I will use the hose with brass nipples for now.

Jim
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:05 PM   #20
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Jim,
i doubt you will have any problem with the brass hose fitting ends. The hose is rated for high pressure and so must the end fittings be, usually more than the hose they are attached to.. THey will be thick enough to stand up.

As Ski said it is the brass nipple between the engine block and the brass TEE where the problem lies. Engines vibrate and the brass in that application won't last partly because the nipples are typically a thin wall and a close or short nipple is nearly fully threaded which weakens them even more.

A FORGED fitting or a HEX nipple would be a lot better than a close or short.

Better is change the nipple to a hydr. steel nipple and a steel hyd TEE.
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