Lucas Oil additive???

[Fighterpilot]

What are the forum's thoughts on the use of Lucas Oil additive in old 3208N engines? They are vintage 1982 with 1600 hours? Boat is new to me so don't know oil consumption. Thanks

 

[sunchaser]

As stated on boatdiesel, no benefit with today's oils.* More importatnly, be sure to service all things per the Cat 1000 or 1500 hour level (which ever is most rigorous) on the vessel including water pumps and HXs so you have a base line going *forward.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I agree w Tom but some oils are marketed for cars w high millage and one can assume they ADDED something to the oil to make it more desirable in older engines. And most modern oils have 15 or so ADDITIVES in the oil to make it better than it would otherwise be so one can basically assume additives are a good thing. But everything ADDED to the oil that has volume means less oil will be there to lubricate your engine. I think viscosity improvers in in lube oils for our boat engines are not needed or even desirable so I use straight 30w and 40w oil in my engine. Both will be fine but I get a tad bit more oil w/o the multi-vis ADDITIVES. In my cars I use multi-vis oils in all of them. Additives can be a good thing even if added by non engineers but the safest way to go is to decide to let the engine manufacturer instruct you on what kinds of lube oils to use. Read the manuals.

 

[psneeld]

Fighterpilot wrote:
What are the forum's thoughts on the use of Lucas Oil additive in old 3208N engines? They are vintage 1982 with 1600 hours? Boat is new to me so don't know oil consumption. Thanks

*as I posted before...

snake oil....unless those engine have problems...they have another 8000 hours of good service if you treat them right...and then they can be rebuilt for a song for another 10,000 hours.

I sold my sportfish with twin 320hp 3208Ts with over 3500 hrs in a 1988 boat and the engine survey/oil analysis came back perfect a few years ago.

I'm a big believer in good old Rotella 15W40 (5W40 if operating in winter with no hot start)...changed every 200 hrs with no additives. Me and a whole bunch of guys have millions of miles and hundreds of thouands of hours on our diesels. All the hype about everything else is just that...unecessary hype and/or expense.

Synthetics are good for gear type non-combustion rigs...but combustion byproducts force you to change the oil more often (or at least when analysis says to) than in a gear case...so gear oil that's sysnthetic is less of a waste as it can go much longer bewtween changes. Plus the synthetics do better at high temps that your engine should never see.

__________________*********

 

[chc]

I have Detroit 8.2's in my Californian 34; 4000 hrs on one 1800 on the other. I don't really consider them old yet. Both run well w/o smoke, etc. I use Shell 15W40 Rotella w/ changes every 100-150 hrs, & samples taken at least annually. The diesel group that handles my maintenance issues has suggested that additives probably aren't needed as long as the engines are used regularly. Apparently the biggest benefit from products like Lucas is reducing wear during a dry start situation. How do we define that ? After a winter layup? After a month in the slip? So far I don't have a solid answer from anyone. While I work it out, I'll stick with the program that has been working so far: good oil changed often, routine samples, and run it as often as we can.

 

[Nomad Willy]

For those that are worried about this would cranking the engine for 5 seconds at regular intervals prevent the "dry start" that is said to be damaging? I'm quite sure it would on bearings fed w pressureized oil but would new oil make it to the cylinder walls?

 

[psneeld]

I used to crank my 3208s every winter month when the boat was winterized. I would crank until pressure would come up. Stop, then do it again. No harm in the 5 years I did that for the 5 months winter storage. Engine surveys passed with flying colors.

I think that the wear and tear with cranking is minimal. However when the enfgine catches and is running until oil pressure is up is where the damage occurs. That's why many people/manufactureres recommend pre-lubers. That's also why you fill filters at oil changes so that delay doesn't exist between engine firing and the filter filling.


-- Edited by psneeld on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 05:04:21 AM

 

[Fighterpilot]

It is suggested that oil with Lucas will stay coated to the surfaces more--wouldn't that aid in the cold start since there would be some lubrication already adheared to the metal? If left up to me I would spend money on Lucas--I tend to share the opinion of a number of you folks but it is a thought.

 

[psneeld]

Who says it does?* Lucas?* all additive companies say their stuff is better...but I've seen studies of diesel additives where over half actually worsen lubricity values and a lot of "old timers" remedies are equally as bad.

Your engines will rot away before something like Lucas could ever have any benifit.* If you are putting that many hours on your engines...then you are using them enough to not worry about the oil drainoff.* If you are that worried...a preluber is a better but costly idea...

Me...after long sits, I'll just crank for 5 sec with fuel shutoff...let sit for 30...then crank till oil pressure builds...let sit for 30 secs (cylinders should even be warming at that point) ...then start.

 

[sunchaser]

Over cranking can pump raw water into the engine through the exhaust. I'd rather take my chances with engine life going from 10,000 + to 5,000+ with "poor" lubrication than going anytime due to water into a cylinder.

 

[FF]

Lucas oil is a simple thickiner.

If your book recommends SAE 30 and you add Lucas , you are simply home brewing 40wt oil.

Fine near "the End" to cut down on oil consumption , hide knocking bearings or restore some compression and stop visible smoke..

Most engines will last longest with a straight weight oil, but cold starts are not as easy , and synthetic multi viscosity does give 2-3% better fuel burn.

 

[psneeld]

Sunchaser - Just crank without the pump on/impeller in.* For long sits I usually have the impeller out anyway (like winterization due to blade set and antifreeze swelling).* Plus not all diesels have mufflers or setups where water backup would be a problem.



-- Edited by psneeld on Saturday 5th of November 2011 07:23:58 AM


-- Edited by psneeld on Saturday 5th of November 2011 07:24:31 AM

 

[sunchaser]

Scott

Water backup caused by excessive cranking can be a problem if the highest point in your exhaust run is higher than your last cylinder/turbo.*The same applies to gensets. *Many of the Fourm members do not take out impellers since we never "winter layup." How does antifreeze swelling impact a raw water impeller if you odn't winter layup?

Of course if you can make water run uphill -----


-- Edited by sunchaser on Saturday 5th of November 2011 09:15:03 AM

 

[Nomad Willy]

Thanks Tom I need to be reminded about that so I won't forget at the wrong time but so far I've always remembered when cranking. To keep the cylinder lube up perhaps starting for a few seconds (just long enough to pump the water out of the exhaust system) would be preferable. I'm thinking about such things this year as I'm pickling the domestic water system.

 

[FF]

For "long sits" the engine manufacturer will usually have a list on his web site .

DD sez "for out of service of over 30 days".

And none I have ever seen recommend dry cranking for fun.

Engines are expensive enough to be worth the effort of proper pickling.

That is why I always suggest a look in the log book to seperiate the vessel operators from the yachties "good enough , we cant wear it out anyway."