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Old 05-13-2012, 07:11 PM   #21
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How do you know it does not pressurize, is there a pressure gauge on the system?

Does the rate of loss continue if you run it longer than 20 minutes? For example, if you ran it for 40 minutes would you lose a gallon?

If it runs longer, does the temperature increase?


I know it doesn't pressurize as I release the pressure cap.
Rate of loss is a stumper. It seems to be okay and after
running a couple of times (10-20 minutes), it's down almost a gallon.
The temperature never passed 140. I replaced the thermostat today
and it holds now at 185.
I appreciate the info on checking pressure and using dye but I can't figure out the inlets from the outlets. I'd gladly pay for a "schematic" of the cooling system.
I'm going to try and enclose a picture of the major coolant components on this vessel and maybe I can get some ideas what travels where.

Thank-you all for your time-
Eeber
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:10 PM   #22
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Here you go ...

It looks like your engine heat exchanger has seen better days. There appears to be evidence of SW leaks around the connections everywhere.

Loosen the hose clamp where the hose out of the transmission cooler enters the exhaust elbow. Twist the hose to break it loose from the fitting on the elbow and see if you can pull it back enough to create a leak when the engine is running. You just want to see if the water that leaks out glows under the UV light. That water cools the exhaust before it enters the rubber exhaust hose so don't run without it or you will burn up the hose. The alternative is to watch the water coming out with the exhaust overboard - it is the same water.

If it doesn't glow then your leak is someplace besides into the SW loop. Or, you don't have enough dye to see, use lots, it's cheap and harmless.

If that water glows, loosen the hose clamp on the hose labeled IN, do it at the upper end as it appears to be more accessible. If that comes out clean then it confirms the leak is probably in the transmission cooler.

If you get glowing water out of that hose then the leak is probably in the nasty looking heat exchanger. If that comes out clean then look at the water heater - run the hot water into a sink for a bit and see if it glows. It could leak out someplace else on the engine or plumbing, shine the UV everywhere. What does your oil look like? Is it milky?
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:31 PM   #23
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Losing Coolant from Heat Exchanger - Cruisers & Sailing Forums
besides a few pictures of a different coolant path other than yours I think your problem is in the transmission cooler. I don't know but it looks like the water goes from the transmission cooler into the exhaust elbow. I would think that should be fresh.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:53 PM   #24
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Could be leaking through the heat exchanger and going overboard with the exhaust. That's the most likely cause unless you did something stupid like seriously overheating it.

That's relatively cheap to test and remedy. Take the heat exchanger off and have it pressure tested.

From there the possibilities get more expensive (and much less likely) so test the exchanger first. If it really was a head gasket the system would likely not only be pressurized, it would be overpressurized so my money is on the heat exchanger.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:17 AM   #25
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Just FYI, there is no heater loop.

If the small cylinder is the transmission cooler
and the large cylinder is the heat exchanger,
what's the thing the exhaust elbow comes out of?

How about a zinc (zincs)? I see no place for one.

Thanks for the education-
Eeber
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:24 AM   #26
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That looks like your exhaust manfold. The pencil zincs should be a 9/16" or so size bolt head on the bottom of the large cylinder.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:12 AM   #27
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UPDATE-

I skipped the pressure tester because it was obviously leaking bad.
Turns out I didn't need dye either. I pulled the hose feeding the transmission cooler as Rick suggested and there was coolant present. I found and removed the zinc. It was gone. I removed the exchanger and filled the closed coolant side of it with water. It pretty much ran right out the ends.
LENCO is currently building me another one and the biggest surprise
is, the cost is half what I expected.

It was a good learning experience.

Thank-you all very much for your ideas.

Sincerely-
Eeber
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #28
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Hi Men-
I got the new heat exchanger and it's primed but not painted.
I'd like to spray it with some Valspar.
Do I need something more heat resistant?
Thanks-
Eeber
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:20 PM   #29
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Eeber, you can buy some high heat primer from the auto parts place and prime it. You they make every kind of color of heat paint as well.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:46 PM   #30
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Its not going to get over 200 degrees so I wouldn't worry about high heat paint.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:20 PM   #31
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Its not going to get over 200 degrees so I wouldn't worry about high heat paint.
Concur....
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:45 AM   #32
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How about the transmission cooler?
Does it necessarily have a zinc?
Feels like a drain plug on the bottom and that's it.
It is bonded twice to the engine.

Thanks-
Eeber
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:20 AM   #33
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How about the transmission cooler?
Unless it is a lot newer than the other heat exchanger it has had the same amount of even warmer water through it.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:01 AM   #34
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What's a TX heat exchanger?

Thank-you
Eeber


The TX means transmission or marine gear
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