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Old 04-19-2011, 07:54 PM   #1
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Lehman SP135 Adjusting engine valves

This may not be for everybody- and we are all grown ups and able to determine our risk tolerance, but for those possibly interested I snapped some pics a few weeks ago in case anyone is interested in adjusting their engine valves. This applies to the 135 only.

These first two pics are just removing the valve cover. The 135 valves are adjusted COLD. The intake and exhaust valves are both set at .015" clearance.*

The firing order is 153624. Many years ago I was taught to adjust engine valves using a "parenting cylinder" approach. The advantage is time and simplicity. Instead of two or more hand rotations of the engine you are able to set the valves in only one revolution. This works on any even number cylinder engine.*

The third picture shows the firing order divided in half, so 1/6, 5/2, 3/4 work together. Use a wrench (4th picture) and spin the engine over until the rear cylinder rocker arms, #6, start to overlap. On a high compression engine you may have a hard time as you begin to spin because a cylinder is coming to the top of a compression stroke. If so, wait a few seconds and the compression will bleed past the rings. Overlap means that #6 exhaust valve is closing and #6 intake valve is beginning to open. It is critical that you find the exact location that both are moving at one time. I usually lay my fingers on the rocker arms (5th pic) and will rock the crankshaft back and forth to be sure I have the right spot.

After you have #6 on overlap, you are ready to set the intake/ exhaust valves on #1 cylinder. The SP135 has friction adjusters, and these are easy to work with. More common are the type that have a flat screwdriver head and a jam nut. With the friction adjuster you simply turn it where you want it and it stays. Sometimes it is easier to remove the individual feeler gauge from the rest. The trick here is to*tighten the rocker arm adjuster until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge. You should be able to reinsert the gauge with slight pressure. Reset it 4 or 5 times if necessary to get a feel for it until you are happy with the result. After setting both valves, use your wrench to turn the crankshaft clockwise a few degrees until cylinder #2 *goes into overlap. Now you are ready to adjust both valves on cylinder #5. Next is #4 overlap, set #3. Then #1 overlap and set #6 valves.

Continue until 2 and 4 are adjusted, install a new valve cover gasket and you are finished!
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:38 AM   #2
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Great job, I have a 120 an I think the same process will work.
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Old 04-14-2016, 12:23 PM   #3
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Thank you so much Forklift.

I have hesitated in doing it just becuase I usually f.. something up the first time which then takes 10 times longer to fix.

THis is rally clear and your explanations give enough detail to understand what is going on.

Very Well Done.

Thanks Again.
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:18 AM   #4
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The next trick is to use a go- no go feeler gauge system.

If you need 15 thou if a 14 slides in easily and a 16thou does not go in without hard force , you are as close to 15 as required.
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:49 AM   #5
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Agree the stepped, go no go, gauges will increase confidence for those not familiar with the "feel" of proper adjustment.
here is an example:


Sears.com


I shut the fuel off. It is unlikely that the engine would start but I am cautious.
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:56 PM   #6
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Great instruction....thank you. At what interval should the valves normally be adjusted?
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:46 PM   #7
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1,000 hours I believe were Bob Smith instructions. There may be a question if you should re-torque the head prior.
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
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1,000 hours I believe were Bob Smith instructions. There may be a question if you should re-torque the head prior.
On 135's you must absolutely NOT retorque the head. This is spelled out clearly in every manual.

This is an exact cut and paste from the manual:

DUE TO REVISED HEAD GASKET, HEAD GASKET AND HEAD BOLT DESIGN RETORQUING OF CYLINDER HEAD IS NOT REQUIRED. AND MUST NOT BE ATTEMPTED.

Ken
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchace View Post
On 135's you must absolutely NOT retorque the head. This is spelled out clearly in every manual:

DUE TO REVISED HEAD GASKET, HEAD GASKET AND HEAD BOLT DESIGN RETORQUING OF CYLINDER HEAD IS NOT REQUIRED. AND MUST NOT BE ATTEMPTED.

Ken
Slight drift, does that apply to the 120 too?
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:05 AM   #10
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Don't think so. I think on the 120 you're supposed to retorque before adjusting valves and that is why the big warning for the 135. This same "no retorque" applies to all the Dover engines.

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Old 07-09-2016, 09:13 AM   #11
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The problem is that I have conflicting info even from American Diesel.

My 2 goto engine experts say if you don't know what kind of bolts/head gasket were used last time...it is a crap shoot about retorquing them.

Ski mentioned that he at one time to solve a head gasket issue IIRC, he replaced one bolt at a time and re-torqued with a known quantity.

Makes sense to me....then again....pulling the head and checking everything out, replacing gasket and bolts is some money and labor involved....but if at least a couple thousand hours since the last time...maybe not a bad idea.

On the road...I might try Ski's suggestion...at home port where the next trip could be months away...the full Monty could be in the cards.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
My 2 goto engine experts say if you don't know what kind of bolts/head gasket were used last time...it is a crap shoot about retorquing them.

Ski mentioned that he at one time to solve a head gasket issue IIRC, he replaced one bolt at a time and re-torqued with a known quantity.

Makes sense to me....then again....pulling the head and checking everything out, replacing gasket and bolts is some money and labor involved....but if at least a couple thousand hours since the last time...maybe not a bad idea.

On the road...I might try Ski's suggestion...at home port where the next trip could be months away...the full Monty could be in the cards.
Speaking of Dover engines only (90, 135, etc.) If we're talking about merely adjusting valves for maintenance purposes only, I think it would be folly to do something that the manual emphatically says not to do. Now if one is away from th dock and you need to try and resolve a problem, try what makes sense under the circumstances.

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Old 07-09-2016, 09:53 AM   #13
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Sorry, was talking to the 120 question....
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:10 AM   #14
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I would not retorque any engine head bolts unless being done to solve a specific problem. Or unless the manual specified it, which is very rare.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:20 PM   #15
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@ Forklift; Thanks for the detailed description on valve adjustment on the SP 135. It went just like you spelled out in your post. Unfortunately, it did not fix my current issue, and I will be starting a new thread regarding my issue to hopefully get a few ideas.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:34 PM   #16
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Glad I could help . Keep us posted -


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kchace View Post
Don't think so. I think on the 120 you're supposed to retorque before adjusting valves and that is why the big warning for the 135. This same "no retorque" applies to all the Dover engines.

Ken
I wonder if the 135 head bolts were "torqued to yield"? If they were you have to replace the head bolts! You can't re-torque them or reuse them! Looks like it started in the mid 80s.
Torque-to-yield
In the mid 1980s, we started to see a move in engine fasteners to a new process called torque-to-yield (TTY). Head bolts were the first fasteners affected, although the technology has trickled down to other critical fasteners. The theory holds that the farther we stretch a fastener toward the threshold of yield, the more load it exerts on the joint.

Best to know how your head bolts were torqued before trying to re-torque them!
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:42 PM   #18
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AD says for 120 re torque head 500 to 1000 hours...u will know with loss of power ...observe performance.
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Old 11-11-2016, 06:00 PM   #19
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AD says for 120 re torque head 500 to 1000 hours...u will know with loss of power ...observe performance.
Actually, they won't say for sure depending on who did what last using which bolts, etc...

The only way to do it without question is pull the bolts and head, new gasket and new bolts. Now you know what you have and can go frombtgere...meaning a regular retorque or not.
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Old 11-11-2016, 06:13 PM   #20
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The orig spec on engine bolts provides torque details, Relative strength to yield. If torque spec well below yield likely safe use existing if no visual issues. If torque and yield similar id replace all if fasteners are old meaning run in and out over years . Very inexpensive why risk.
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