Lehman Peugeot Fresh Water Pump

[Black Raven]

I am looking for a fresh water pump for a Lehman Peugeot, see image. I need it as soon as possible. Any advice where I can find it would be extremely appreciated.

 

[Marin]

Never heard of that engine but you might call Bob or Brian Smith at American Diesel. Bob worked for Lehman for many years and was involved in the marinizations of many of their engines in including the Ford Lehman 120.

 

[BruceK]

I am looking for a fresh water pump for a Lehman Peugeot

Like Marin I`d not heard of a Peugeot Lehman, American Dsl is a good start. I just replaced the FW pump on a Ford Lehman, the pump was an original Ford part, not a Lehman marinizing part. Found one online at a tractor dealer.
You could ask your local Peugeot dealer,I own a Pug, doubt you`ll get far. Can you find a part number embossed on the pump, or in a parts book, for an online search.
Good luck with it. Apart from the pump,how do like the engine?
Another thought,can the pump be serviced/repaired if a replacement can`t be readily obtained. The impeller looks to be metal, the bearing is the likely issue.

 

[JohnP]

These engines are 4cylinder 61 hp. I only know of them because Albin used them in their 27 Family Cruisers.

I never had one but from what I see online parts are very hard to get.

If the housing of your pump is not shot, maybe someone can rebuild it, as often seals and bearings can be cross referenced.

The engine Lehman 4D61 Diesel - YouTube for anyone interested.

You also may be able to find a parts engine somewhere-- check E-bay.

JohnP

 

[marting]

The waterpump warehouse online. Very cheap and work well about $80 the last one i bought

 

[flawler]

I have a 1984 Albin diesel with the 4D61 motor. I tried the bucket trick as shown above. The water pump will not pull water. I've replaced the impeller and the impeller spins when I run the starter, but won't pull water from the bucket.
Water pump? Replace or rebuild? Parts source?
Thanks!

 

[BobH]

It's a centrifugal pump, it must be flooded, meaning it will move water but not suck it up.


Bob

 

[C lectric]

Agree. It must be primed to work. When installed on the engine and the system is filled it is automatically primed.
For it to work the way you are trying to test it YOU must prime it.

Put one hose in the bucket. CAP/plug it so water cannot drain out. It need not be a perfect seal. Then holding the other hose up pour in water untill that hose is filled. Then put the filled up hose in the bucket losing as little water as possible. Remove the cap on the other hose.

Then start the engine. If you got it primed it should work.

Usually if the pumps are not leaking to the outside at the shaft they work just fine.
Water at the bearing means the shaft seal has goofed up and a re/re is needed.

Why are you testing the circulation pump? Often people blame the circulation pump for heating problems when they should be looking elsewhere.

Once in a long while a pump may spin its impeller but you have found yours to be tight so unless the pump is leaking it probably is not at fault for heating problems.

 

[flawler]

I have primed it thoroughly. You are right, it does overheat. I have checked the entire freshwater system from intake to exhaust canister and beyond.

Please provide practical suggestions and solutions; the system has been primed, the impellers have been changed.

What else could explain the failure to pull water? It appears I should pull the pump to see if the shaft seal has been compromised.

Thank you.

 

[capt jerry]

I have primed it thoroughly. You are right, it does overheat. I have checked the entire freshwater system from intake to exhaust canister and beyond.

Please provide practical suggestions and solutions; the system has been primed, the impellers have been changed.

What else could explain the failure to pull water? It appears I should pull the pump to see if the shaft seal has been compromised.

Thank you.

are you sure that your raw water pump is not the problem, and not the ciculating pump on your engine

 

[flawler]

Thanks.
There is no raw water coming out the exhaust.
The coolant appears to be circulating as it should.
Raw water is not circulating; perhaps there is an air leak somewhere in the system? We can't find any apparent leak.
Thanks for any recommendations.

 

[123]

Although not in the US, but for Indenor parts THE place;

Indenor Retro - Wellcome

I thinks this is the pump at page 21;

http://www.indenor-retro.de/Kataloge%202015/Katalog%20DTP%20Peugeot%20Indenor%20%202015.pdf

Good luck.

 

[FF]

"There is no raw water coming out the exhaust.


The circ pump that is mounted on the engine has nothing to do with this.

There is a sea water circuit , with a sea water (usually rubber impeller) pump that you should examine.

Is the engine sea cock or valve open?

 

[LarryM]

Black Raven,

The pump you pictured resembles a standard 74-76 Peugeot 504D water pump. Sometimes marinized automotive or industrial engines use he same circulating pump. Here is one on eBay right now.

Engine Water Pump GMB 156 2150 Fits 74 76 Peugeot 504 2 1L L4 | eBay

You might have to block off the heater tube, but it might be worth looking into.

Flawler,

Content and reference to your post has been removed. Two different issues in the same thread . . . .

 

[flawler]

The pump pictured was NOT my pump and that post was not my post. I am talking about the raw water/seawater pump. The original thread had a video of a running engine pulling water out of a bucket; my reference was to that video.

My raw water circuit acts as if the impeller is not there, even though I put in at least two different ones called for by the part numbers in the manual and primed it thoroughly after screwing it down tight.

I am looking for possible causes of the problem and possible solutions. Is the RAW WATER PUMP failing under load? Is there a leak in the system that I have missed? Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?

Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

 

[LarryM]

The pump pictured was NOT my pump and that post was not my post. I am talking about the raw water/seawater pump. The original thread had a video of a running engine pulling water out of a bucket; my reference was to that video.

My raw water circuit acts as if the impeller is not there, even though I put in at least two different ones called for by the part numbers in the manual and primed it thoroughly after screwing it down tight.

I am looking for possible causes of the problem and possible solutions. Is the RAW WATER PUMP failing under load? Is there a leak in the system that I have missed? Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?

Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

Flawler,

Relating to your Raw Water Pump, can you tell us how and when the pump failed? Was it gradual with an accompanying rise in engine operating temperature, or was it suddenly?

1. Don't take this wrong, but did you put it back together correctly with the cam and endplate correctly installed and plenty of appropriate lubricant?

2. Are you sure of the impeller part number and size? I once fought the same problem only to find I had been given a replacement impeller that was not wide enough. It had too much side clearance against the housing and would not seal sufficiently to pump water. When I finally installed the proper impeller, it worked perfectly.

3. Another time, I had to make a new pump cover gasket for an emergency repair. The gasket material I first used was too thick and the pump would not prime. I cut another gasket out of a brown paper bag and it worked perfectly.

4. If the pump cover or housing are too badly scored or worn, the pump will not prime or pump properly.

5. If the shaft lip seal is damaged, the pump will not prime or pump properly.

I believe you mentioned that you tried the bucket test, but did you thoroughly check the water supply to the pump? Are the through-hull, seacock, hose and raw water strainer all clean and leak free. If not check these.

1. The exterior raw water strainer, if fitted, can be blocked by a plastic bag or other debris.

2. The seacock/valve can fail with the operating shaft breaking at the ball, allowing the handle to move, but not actuate the ball. I have one on my bookshelf that broke like this. The handle turns freely, but the ball is frozen in a slightly open position.

3. The seawater strainer cover gasket can become damaged and leak air which can cause the pump not to prime or to pump poorly.

4. Hoses have been known to delaminate on the inside in such a way that the liner comes loose and closes off the water flow on the inside.

5. Finally, are all of the hoses, adaptors and clamps tight and leak free? I have seen common brass hose adaptors used that deteriorated and became porous and leaked.

Other members may think of something I have forgotten, but this is all I can think of right now.

Oh, Pumpvendors.com is a good source for Johnson pumps and parts.

Best of luck

 

[flawler]

Thank you so much for the structured, rationale approach.
It will be a couple of weeks before I get back to tackle the problem again, but I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond.

Frank L

 

[flawler]

Thanks again to Larry.

We replaced the raw water pump seal without benefit.

My brother-in-law diagnosed that the impeller was adequate in a radial direction, but not long enough in the axial dimension due to wear and pitting on the end cover.

I have an end cover, wear plate, and gasket on order from pumpvendor.com and will replace the hoses also. The prior end cover was fabricated from aluminum and likely did not tolerate sea water or time very well.

Thanks again for the advice.

Frank Lawler
Anchor Management