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Old 05-24-2015, 06:32 PM   #1
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Lehman 120 priming issue - need help

Tried starting my engine today prior to launching the boat next week and engine would not start. It's not unusual after the winter for air to have entered the fuel system (not sure why by the way. Wasn't like that before but for the last couple of years I had to bleed the system in the spring). Anyway, tried pumping the little lever on the side of the fuel pump but it felt kinda loose and no fuel would come out of the bleed screws on top of the fuel filters. Decided to fill them manually with a small funnel to speed things up. Tried it again, no luck.

Any idea or suggestions?
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:47 PM   #2
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Lift pump has failed. Cheap replacement at a tractor or industrial engine store. Carry a spare.

Or, open your fuel shutoff?
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:53 PM   #3
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Sound like the fuel pump is sitting on the high of it's cam, turn the engine over a little and the lever should then work.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:12 PM   #4
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Sound like the fuel pump is sitting on the high of it's cam, turn the engine over a little and the lever should then work.
That would be my guess. Just bump the starter.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:24 PM   #5
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That would be my guess. Just bump the starter.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:26 PM   #6
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Sound like the fuel pump is sitting on the high of it's cam, turn the engine over a little and the lever should then work.


That's it
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Old 05-25-2015, 10:57 AM   #7
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I put a electric pump from tank to filters, can hit switch and prime filters and pump, works every time. On switch that I just turn off , fuel flowers to engine just fine
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:03 PM   #8
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Success! Thanks a lot guys. 👍
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:15 PM   #9
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And now you know.The simple things will get us all ever now and then.Glad you got her going.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:32 AM   #10
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Greetings,
Mr. F. If you ever have to "bump" the engine over again, one of these is cheap and easy...

Automotive Service Tool Sets - K-D Tools 124 Remote Control Starter Switch

You can get them cheaper. I think I paid about $12 for mine at Harbor Freight.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:36 AM   #11
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Is bumping the starter what did it?
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:40 AM   #12
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Yep. I pressed the starting switch for half a second. Didn't work right away. Had to do it a few times until I felt the fuel pump "working". Then I was able to prime the line pretty quickly (filled the fuel filters ahead of time to avoid pumping for ever). The engine started right away after that.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:43 AM   #13
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Good deal! Glad you got it, and I have another "secret fix" that I'll probably forget when I need it...thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:35 PM   #14
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Well, looks like this story is not over. Launched the boat yesterday and after 2-3 minutes the engine died. Spent over an hour trying to bleed the thing but it just wouldn't start. Even changed the not-so-old fuel filters just in case. No luck. I'm starting to suspect the fuel pump is dead because I was never able to make it work manually to bleed the line. Even after cranking the engine 25-30 times to get it to "engage". The little lever is soft and feels loose all the time now. I even removed the fuel line that comes out of the pump and cranked the engine to see if fuel would spurt out of the pump. Nothing came out (I'm assuming fuel would come out if the pump was working properly no?). I do have a replacement pump so it would be the next logical thing to try. Wanted to have your opinion first and maybe read about your own experience changing this fuel pump. Doesn't look too hard. Two bolts but one of them is a little hard to reach.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:47 PM   #15
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Can you rig a gravity feed bypassing the pump but still through the on engine fuel filters?

Don't need much, just enough to see if it starts...
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:22 PM   #16
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Greetings,
Mr. F. Pumps aren't atrociously expensive and not hard to change. Not a bad idea to have a spare on board if, after change out, you find the pump was not the problem although it still may be the problem.
I changed a pump while the Admiral was doing circles just outside Port Everglades and inadvertently dropped one of the two 5/16-24 attachment nuts. Didn't have another on board and couldn't immediately find the errant nut. Ran on one nut to home dock and the local NAPA guy gave me 5 (I guess out of pity).
Hint: Hold the priming lever up while cranking the engine. You should feel pulsations.
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:32 PM   #17
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... Wanted to have your opinion first and maybe read about your own experience changing this fuel pump. Doesn't look too hard. Two bolts but one of them is a little hard to reach.
Not sure on the 120 but the 135 is OK but is easier if I drop the oil cooler first...

When you have the time, have you thought about adding an external electric fuel pump? 1-3 way valve, some proper electric for the pump, a couple of Ts and then bleeding the system or running on the DC pump and trouble shooting becomes easier. I know this doesn't help you today but...
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:31 PM   #18
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Greetings,
Mr. F. If you ever have to "bump" the engine over again, one of these is cheap and easy...Automotive Service Tool Sets - K-D Tools 124 Remote Control Starter Switch
A friend who is a fitter and toolmaker, calls it an "inch button".
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #19
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Tried to remove the pump today but didn't succeed just yet. I got the two nuts (had to grind a 1\2 inch wrench to make it fit where the rear nut is located. Otherwise the wrench is too wide and you can't turn the nut). But the pump wouldn't come out, it doesn't clear the studs. So my question is: do I have to remove the studs as well? If so, how do you do that? I tried to do it with the two nuts locked on the stud but it did work. Looks like the studs are a bit too short for the second nut to really engage in enough threads. Any advice would be appreciated!
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:33 PM   #20
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Greetings,
Mr. F. Once you get the nuts off, the pump should just pull out. There's nothing on our engines that generate clearance problems. I think your pump should look something like this: It's actually upside down in this image...



One time on removal, a stud did come out inadvertently but I lock-tited it back in before putting the pump back on. Is there something in the way of your pump that is preventing a straight pull outwards? Maybe the internal lever (shown @ the 12 o'clock position in the above image) is hanging up on something. Push the priming lever up and down as you're pulling the pump away from the block or give the engine a quick turn. Maybe the internal lever is hanging up on the drive cam inside.
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