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Old 05-28-2019, 09:49 AM   #1
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Lehman 120 oil leaks

Hi All,


I know I've asked you before about oil leaks. I put a new oil pad in the drip tray below the engine and in several places I have oil spots (2-3" in diameter), about 3 of them AND I have oil accumulated on the starboard rear engine mount leg of the motor (where the data plate is). Shine a flashlight at the bottom of the head and I see shiny. Touch it with a clean paper towel... it's oil. I'm not loosing any antifreeze, exhaust color is like it always is. I also have streaks from the head to the oil pan say 7 or 8 of them in various places on the block. Idles and runs like a champ (never above 1800 RPM).



Anyone else ever had this on their Lehman? Input?



Dave
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:20 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. DE. Easiest thing to try is snug down your valve cover. NOT tight, snug. You may have to replace the gasket. If so, make sure the cover is not deformed where the screw holes are. Perhaps a previous owner was a bit too exuberant in fastening down the cover.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:22 AM   #3
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I had the same problem. It is most likely coming from the valve cover. Try tightening the large screws holding the valve cover down. Mine work loose every so often.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:24 AM   #4
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While the valve cover is off take a straight edge and make sure it is flat so it will seal with the new gasket. If it has been over tightened in the past it may have deformed.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:29 AM   #5
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:53 AM   #6
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I have the same thing on starboard aft motor mount. Changed valve cover gasket with same result. I tried to straighten it but itís a big beast and PO must have cranked them down a bit.
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Old 05-30-2019, 07:08 AM   #7
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Agree about valve cover gasket and possibly a seal where one or more injector lines go into the head.


My other dips were/are from sender's on the port side or accumulated oil in the air filter.


None are really anything to worry about. Even the rear main has to leak a lot before many mechs will say change it.
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_E View Post
Hi All,


I know I've asked you before about oil leaks. I put a new oil pad in the drip tray below the engine and in several places I have oil spots (2-3" in diameter), about 3 of them AND I have oil accumulated on the starboard rear engine mount leg of the motor (where the data plate is). Shine a flashlight at the bottom of the head and I see shiny. Touch it with a clean paper towel... it's oil. I'm not loosing any antifreeze, exhaust color is like it always is. I also have streaks from the head to the oil pan say 7 or 8 of them in various places on the block. Idles and runs like a champ (never above 1800 RPM).



Anyone else ever had this on their Lehman? Input?



Dave

Without using gasket sealant which I don't really recommend, I think *everyone* has this on their Lehmans in varying degrees. Its almost surely from the valve cover gasket. Its old school - old style which is very hard to get completely leak free even with a new gasket. If they haven't been replaced lately I would start with a new gasket. First check the valve cover for "dents" around the screws from previous overtightening. If there are dents, these need to be carefully "massaged" out, then install a new gasket and carefully tighten the valve covers - not too tight.


Ken
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:28 AM   #9
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There are long steel valve cover hold downs available at the auto parts store - see picture.
They are available in several shapes.

I use those on my Lehman valve covers to spread the pressure to a larger area. Some grinding of the holdown may be required to get the holdowns to fit around the shape of the valve cover.

Use a new gasket with these and tighten evenly and no more leaking valve cover. I do use a gasket sealant to glue the gasket to the valve cover only to keep the gasket from moving around during tightning.

Lehmans are leaky engines.
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:39 AM   #10
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Greetings,
Mr. s. That's exactly what I am going to install but minus the sealant. I haven't had any trouble with the gasket moving around (yet).



I did purchase some UV oil tracing stuff which I've yet to employ but it's on "the list".


https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/c...5/27fbee18b299
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:01 AM   #11
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Without using gasket sealant which I don't really recommend, I think *everyone* has this on their Lehmans in varying degrees. Its almost surely from the valve cover gasket. Its old school - old style which is very hard to get completely leak free even with a new gasket. If they haven't been replaced lately I would start with a new gasket. First check the valve cover for "dents" around the screws from previous overtightening. If there are dents, these need to be carefully "massaged" out, then install a new gasket and carefully tighten the valve covers - not too tight.
Ken
I know I can tighten mine annually, and by tighten I mean with a small screwdriver trying not to dent the holes.
I use the round part of a ball peen hammer to "un-dent" the holes.
The spreader "washer" is a good idea, I may but some.
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Old 05-30-2019, 11:06 AM   #12
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Also, take a close look at the mounting for your fuel lift pump. It mounts with 2 bolts that are not very well placed. Oil coming out of there usually goes up and looks like a leaky valve cover. Really. A new gasket or sealer works well. Also those 6 seals that press against the block where the injectors enter are also an issue.
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Old 05-30-2019, 11:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syjos View Post
There are long steel valve cover hold downs available at the auto parts store - see picture.
They are available in several shapes.

I use those on my Lehman valve covers to spread the pressure to a larger area. Some grinding of the holdown may be required to get the holdowns to fit around the shape of the valve cover.

Use a new gasket with these and tighten evenly and no more leaking valve cover. I do use a gasket sealant to glue the gasket to the valve cover only to keep the gasket from moving around during tightning.

Lehmans are leaky engines.

Those are a great idea. I think I'll look into them.


Ken
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:16 PM   #14
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Search Valce Cover Hold Downs on Amazon. Plenty to choose from

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=valve+cov...b_sb_ss_i_6_11
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:45 PM   #15
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People who own old British cars have been experiencing oil leaks for about 100 years.
So why’s it so objectionable on a boat.

Now that I’ve had my snarky say I had an oil leak on my new (basically) engine and finally figured out where it was coming from. Hasn’t leaked since I took out the offending hardware. But it’s not an old British engine.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:58 PM   #16
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OK, too many answers all saying the same thing. I'm going to take the cover off this weekend, check for flat surfaces, install a new gasket. Let you know what I find.
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:12 PM   #17
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A note regarding oil leaking at the bottom of the bell housing. Brian said it is rarely the rear seal but rather a leak around the freeze plug at the end of the cam shaft.
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:19 PM   #18
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While I respect Brian, there are more than a few owners and confirmed by mechanics that have had rear seal leaks. I currently have one.


They are aggrivated by overfilling with oil which is part of the hub bub over proper oil level.


How does a freeze plug that only seals for coolant produce an oil leak?
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:28 PM   #19
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FL's can leak oil if blowby is high and the little rocker cover vent gets overwhelmed by high flow, pressurizing crankcase. Nobody wants a lot of blowby, that means there is leakage past rings, but that is a tough nut of an engine and even with blowby it can serve well. On a couple I have welded in a larger fitting on rocker cover for blowby and the leaks basically went away. Rear seal, even if old, does ok as long as crankcase is not pressurized.

Even with low blowby, some leak a bit. Easy fix: Wipe it up.
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Old 05-31-2019, 03:40 AM   #20
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OK, too many answers all saying the same thing. I'm going to take the cover off this weekend, check for flat surfaces, install a new gasket. Let you know what I find.
Make sure you use a fresh gasket. I recently replaced a leaking gasket with one that was aboard the boat when I bought it five years ago. And who knows how long it was on board before that. Anyway, it leaked like a sieve. That old orkk was too hard to compress enough to provide a good seal. A fresh gasket from American Diesel solved the leaking. To use a sealant is a decades old debate among mechanics, both on boats and vehicles. I used a modest amount of sealant. No leaks. I have no idea of whether I would have gotten a good seal without a sealant. And, I don't care. I only care that my valve cover no longer leaks. By the way, my leak was bad enough that, somehow, some way, the oil found its way along the underside of the bell housing and transmission to the shaft flange. Yup, that rotating assembly would sling that oil and make a mess. Engines are FL 120s.
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