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Old 01-03-2016, 11:38 AM   #1
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Lehman 120 Injector Punp Drain

I know it's been discussed.

I searched and never found the one or two threads I remember and tried Google too.

If anyone posted or remembers the threads discussing the drain plug on the injector pump of a Lehman 120 and can point me in the right direction thank you.

Mine stripped yesterday even with a slightly less than prescribed torque.

Maybe log ago damage. It snugs up by hand...but I am not satisfied that it will stay.

Anyone do this repair on engine?

Thinking just overdrill, tap and go to 3/8 24 bolt instead of the 5/16 24 bolt. Maybe use an o ring this time to lessen the temptation for a slightly harder turn for snugness.

Ideas or pointers to a thread that can help?

Thought helicoil but seems overkill for a sump drain.
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:49 PM   #2
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The challenge is to keep swarf out of the pump housing. A successful repair is to use Weld Bond and a valve.
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:04 PM   #3
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Thanks...but success with glue in an oil rich environment when on the road just doesn't feel right to me.

Anyone drill and tap?

Also,if I remove the raw water pump, the 1 inch johnson....is there a oil removal issue into the gear housing or is it all drained out of there after shutdown?
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:35 PM   #4
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I have removed the raw water pump. No oil comes out. No need to drain the engine oil.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:47 PM   #5
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"Thought helicoil but seems overkill for a sump drain."

No worse than drilling oversized and tapping!
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:55 PM   #6
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This sort of repair is done all the time. Apply copious amounts of grease to the drill bit and drill with the bit spinning very very slowly, remove, clean and regrease the drill bit VERY often. Repeat with the tap. If you go slowly and clean often, the grease will capture almost all of the cuttings. I think I would then flush a fair bit of oil through there to help push any remaining bits out. You're also aided by the fact that you will be drilling iron at the bottom of the reservoir which due to its weight will tend to keep it there.

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Old 01-03-2016, 03:53 PM   #7
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We had the same problem on our old boat with the screw to control the oil level.
A mechanic solved it by inserting a helicoil. Don't know how he drilled it ...


best regards / med venlig hilsen
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Old 01-03-2016, 04:44 PM   #8
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I'm under the impression the housing is aluminum.
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:06 PM   #9
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The injector pump housing is aluminum and not very thick.
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:33 PM   #10
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The housing is aluminum so I think I'll try a 3/8 24 tap and bolt.

Drilling from the bottom should not present a debris problem. A little grease, probe the hole and flush once should do it.

Thanks so far...still listening...hoping for magic potions or miracles though...
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:07 PM   #11
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Can you wrap the plug with plumber's tape and snug it up enough to stop leaking? Put a "Spanish Windlass" around it to hold it in place when you are not looking at it.

I've run my fill hole plug like this for years.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:00 AM   #12
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I haven't drilled/tapped the pump, but I have drilled & tapped other engines for various reasons.
As mentioned above, grease the drill and the tap.
Also if you have a helper consider SLIGHT air pressure to the pump via the fill hole to make sure the chips exit the drain hole. Maybe something like 2 psi. You could use a dinghy foot pump. Or rig a tube and use lung pressure.
You could also vacuum the drain afterward.
Of course leave the drain open after all this a d let some oil flow thru to make sure the chips are evacuated.


Oh and use a bottoming tap (or grind off the point).
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:03 AM   #13
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Your plan of the 3/8 x 24 bolt is the way to go. O-ring sounds nice, but tends to squeeze out from beneath bolt-head unless you can machine a groove for it. Maybe a fiber washer?

Agreed that a Helicoil is overkill and you still have to increase the hole diameter.

Drilling/opening-up holes in aluminium casings is fraught with peril - mainly that the drill bit tends to grab and chew up the workpiece. Step-drills can work well here. How much room do you have inside the pump body? If not much, then maybe a cheap HF s/drill and grind off the unwanted part?
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
I haven't drilled/tapped the pump, but I have drilled & tapped other engines for various reasons.
As mentioned above, grease the drill and the tap.
Also if you have a helper consider SLIGHT air pressure to the pump via the fill hole to make sure the chips exit the drain hole. Maybe something like 2 psi. You could use a dinghy foot pump. Or rig a tube and use lung pressure.
You could also vacuum the drain afterward.
Of course leave the drain open after all this a d let some oil flow thru to make sure the chips are evacuated.

Oh and use a bottoming tap (or grind off the point).
thanks!
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters View Post
Your plan of the 3/8 x 24 bolt is the way to go. O-ring sounds nice, but tends to squeeze out from beneath bolt-head unless you can machine a groove for it. Maybe a fiber washer?

Agreed that a Helicoil is overkill and you still have to increase the hole diameter.

Drilling/opening-up holes in aluminium casings is fraught with peril - mainly that the drill bit tends to grab and chew up the workpiece. Step-drills can work well here. How much room do you have inside the pump body? If not much, then maybe a cheap HF s/drill and grind off the unwanted part?
good points and tips!
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:47 AM   #16
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I believe you need to use a bottoming tap as there is a cam lobe on the other side of the hole. Use something to see how much clearance you will have. Flush well.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:53 AM   #17
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Probed with a paper clip...nothing remotely close by (at least an inch or more)... The overflow hole maybe but I think the sump is deeper and nothing nearby.

The hole is surrounded by an extension of the housing...I figure I only need 3 or so threads against a compressible washer or o-ring. It is only a drain like on an oil pan so after years of dealing with being careful yet not having problems with stamped metal oil pans...this should offer some cushion for less than machine shop performance.

Will be careful in all aspects but as usual...it might go easy and well or horribly wrong ....as many field repairs can go either way in a heartbeat..

Thanks to all...
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:28 AM   #18
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You may also want to consider tapping it to a 1/8 NPT and use a pipe plug.
The tap drill size is almost the same as 3/8-24.
If you have clearance between the two pumps you could use a street elbow & make draining real easy.
Just a thought.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:31 AM   #19
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I had the same issue and tapped mine to install a brass valve to drain the oil. Works great and does not leak. PM and I will send a photo. I cannot find my resizing software to post one.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:40 AM   #20
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The thread I posted to with the photo is titled, Simms pump drain plug.
Simms pump drain plug

It has the photo of my tapping and valve install
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