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Old 07-17-2022, 09:34 AM   #1
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Seized Hynautic steering fitting

Hi all
New to the forum. My old hynautic h-50 helm pump has blown a seal at the bridge station. I have a seal kit and am about to remove the pump for a rebuild but one of the old hynautic line fittings is proving stubborn to unscrew. The lines are the original nylon hydraulic lines. Any ideas on how to loosen up the last fitting so I can remove the pump without damaging anything appreciated.
Thanks
Kris
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Old 07-17-2022, 07:53 PM   #2
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A clear photo or two may help.
Are there two nuts. Ie, one holding the nylon hose on, Then another that it is secured to?


Are you using two wrenches. One to hold the lower fitting and one to turn the nylon hose securing nut?
Any rust showing? You may need to try some penetrating oil spray. WD40, Corrosion X, ETC.
Some gentle heat may help also although as much as possible it should be concentrated on the nut or fitting that is securing the nylon hose to any adapter fitting on the steering pump. You are trying to slightly expand the nut that hold the nylon hose.

I have often tried tightening first just to get the part to move. THat will upset the metal grain and any light corrosion and allow you to undo the fitting.
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Old 07-17-2022, 08:35 PM   #3
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Greetings,
Mr/Ms. M. Welcome aboard. If you haven't already got them, invest in a set or two of these (I call them flare nut wrenches but I've heard them called other things):





MUCH better grip than plain open ended wrenches and less likely to round off your nuts. I suggest a set or two because they're pretty cheap and may give you that slight advantage to loosen your nuts. Less than $20 a set at Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-68865.html
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Old 07-17-2022, 08:41 PM   #4
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Picture would definitely help. There is probably an NPT to Flare adapter that goes into the body of the helm pump. There are two flavors of hydraulic thread sealant - blue and red. One is very difficult to remove. The adapter is either brass it stainless steel. There should be no rust.

Attached to the flare side of the adapter is a brass fitting that has two parts - an interior that screws into the bylon hose, and an exterior that screws on the outside of the hose with a fine thread into the interior piece (I forget exactly) .

Bottom line is that if you have the setup I think you do, it should unscrew apart, albeit with some effort due to the hydraulic thread sealant. The system is designed to withstand 900 psi thus the tight fits. I would use correct sized wrenches (the flare wrenches in previous post wiuld be ideal), not adjustable wrenches. Tap with a hammer to break the thread sealant. Maybe use a cheater bar. Given the hose is nylon, I would not use heat on this one.

But again, can't be sure. But that's how I've seen them go together.

Good luck.

Peter
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Old 07-18-2022, 08:00 AM   #5
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Thanks all. I picked up some flare wrenches yesterday.
Here is a pic
Attached Thumbnails
32A4BAF4-48DC-444E-83FB-262CB3618B02.jpg  
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Old 07-18-2022, 08:42 AM   #6
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A flare nut wrench should take care of that fitting. Don’t be afraid to put a little muscle behind it.
Good luck.
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Old 07-18-2022, 08:44 AM   #7
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I did the same project with the same helm pump last year. Mine all came loose but you could cut the line, remove the whole adapter fitting and fight it apart off the boat, preferably in a vise.

I believe there are plastic compression sleaves or O-rings that should be replaced, I did not and had no leaks but researching and getting the parts on hand before you tear it apart would be smart.

For what it us worth, the pump rebuild was straightforward and no more leak.
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:03 AM   #8
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Thanks
Next question. I am considering adding an autopilot in the near future. Does anyone know what type of fitting I need to go from the hynautic flare fitting to a standard hydraulic fitting on a raymarine autopilot pump? Looking at an ev-150
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:33 AM   #9
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As c lectric mentioned, use two wrenches to get the hose off. Hold the bottom and turn the top. good luck!
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:48 AM   #10
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If RED 262 loctite has been used then someone should be talked to LOUDLY.
THat stuff is ONLY for something you NEVER want to undo again unless you can heat the parts to about 400oF.

Blue is more than adequate and should not be necessary even then.

Now with the pics. I will modify my heating to the lower nut. The most I would use is a mini torch which produces a much smaller and more easily controlled flame. Just a bit to expand that lower nut. Play the flame on one nut flat, not all over. But last ditch.
I agree about the FLare Nut Wrenches.
If the smaller nut is still fighting you then try to tighten just a bit to break the hold but after trying in the normal undo CCW.
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Old 07-18-2022, 10:02 AM   #11
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Greetings,
Mr. M...


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Old 07-18-2022, 08:09 PM   #12
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I forgot a trick. I'm sure it's not just mine.
I have often undone tough fasteners by arranging the two wrenches so I can grip them both with my two hands and squeeze. It sometimes takes some monkeying and rearranging the wrenches to get them into position but your two hands are quite strong.
Often much better than straining with your two arms.
All they have to do is move and then you can finish to job far more easily.
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:14 PM   #13
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I get my much younger and therefore much stronger neighbor to come and crank on stuff I can’t get apart. I used to do it for older friends but now I am one…
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Old 07-19-2022, 05:00 PM   #14
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Line wrench’s did the trick. Pump is home on the bench ready for a rebuild. Thanks all. 👍
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