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Old 03-13-2014, 09:09 AM   #21
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Blender Boy's Avatar
City: San Jose, CA
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Originally Posted by dwhatty View Post
On our Sidepowers there are two shear pins. One is on the prop and the other between the motor and the gearleg. The gearleg one can be checked (and replaced) with the boat in the water by removing the motor.
Imtra was skeptical that the shear pins could be the problem, but they sent me the troubleshooting guide anyway.

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Old 03-13-2014, 09:59 AM   #22
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City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in Crisfield, MD
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With the power off, I would hop in the water and check both propellers. Would check to see if they were tight on the shaft, and if the shaft could move in and out. Also, always good to make sure the tunnel is free and clear of anything that might make the props cavitate.


I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #23
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City: Stuart FL
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Engine room temperature? Try cruising with the bilge blowers on.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:54 AM   #24
City: Van Horn
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Originally Posted by hmason View Post
Engine room temperature? Try cruising with the bilge blowers on.
Really??? I guess if your engine room was in the bow, Never seen a set up like that.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:06 AM   #25
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City: Auckland
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Vessel Model: Westcoaster 53 converted to pleasure
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Had a similar problem after relaunching with new anti fouling. The props were binding on the paint buildup on the ends if the blades. The motor would run, but the props were not turning - there is a safety clutch as well as shear-pins, at least there is on the hydraulic Side Power that I have.
Fortunately, the boat was still in the travel-lift slings when I discovered the problem so lifted up again, pulled the props and scraped off the excess paint.

I don't know if this is helpful but there could be something intermittently fouling the props- maybe some fishing line. I have even seen a thruster bought to a halt by a fish jammed in the tunnel!

I've also just replaced a joystick which failed after 10 years. It was intermittent but an easy diagnosis because I have two stations and could just swap the joysticks.
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Old 03-15-2014, 01:57 PM   #26
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City: Avalon, NJ
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someone suggested to me this...

"take a look at the flexible coupling and see if there is any sign of rubber dust around it.

Rubber expands when heated so if it is slipping it will heat up,"grab" and function until it cools off again and shrinks."

I trust his judgement...might be worth a look...

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