injector pump leak

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davesail

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Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
12
Location
USA
my injector pump on my perkins 354 is leaking at the point where the linkage enters the pump, not a lot just a drip every 15 -20 seconds

1. Will this let air into the system and shut down the engine?
It has not yet but will it if it gets worse?

2. Rebuild the one I have or get a new pump?

3. has anyone done this and what was the cost factor?


Thanks
Dave
 
I haven't had this happen yet on either of my 6.354's, but the injector doctor tells me that this is a common failure on the CAV rotary pump and the pump needs to be brought in for a visit to the doctor when this happens.

It's major surgery, (cornary bypass surgery on the pump and a Colonoscopy for you.) About 6 boat dollars as I recall!!

LB
 
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my injector pump on my perkins 354 is leaking at the point where the linkage enters the pump, not a lot just a drip every 15 -20 seconds

1. Will this let air into the system and shut down the engine?
It has not yet but will it if it gets worse?

2. Rebuild the one I have or get a new pump?

3. has anyone done this and what was the cost factor?


Thanks
Dave

1. Possibly, depending on where and how large the seal breach is. The best way you can find out is to take a clear piece of vinyl hose and run it from the return port to your return line. If you see air bubbles, then you have air. It might not shut the engine off, but it will degrade performance.

2. I would get the pump rebuilt. There is no reason to purchase a new one unless the old one is not rebuildable. Rebuilds of injector pumps will always be more cost effective than buying a brand new one.

4. If you are able to get away with a simple resealing, it should cost under $500. Try calling Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland, OR. They have rebuilt several pumps for me and are highly skilled. I have mailed the pumps to them and have gotten them back in about a week.
 
If its dripping that means there is pressure behind it from the supply pump, it will not suck air. The seal may be replaceable in place, most likely a lip type seal. If the leaver can be removed from the shaft you may be able to pull the seal & use it to source another from a bearing supply house. You can then tap the new into place using a deep well socket, the system will then need to be bled. Good luck
 
It is crazy, but I was literally going to post the EXACT same problem that has popped up on mine. The only difference is that it's the fuel shutoff linkage that is dripping on mine. Weird. ;-)
 
Leaking pump

Now my pump has a small drip leak. What did y’all do about it. Looks like it is coming from the linkage that gives it fuel.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the linkage that gives it fuel. But, if you are talking about the throttle shaft, my memory is that all, or almost all of the CAV DPA-type pumps have two o-rings on it that can be replaced.

Not knowing what pump you have, I don't know what o-rings you need. And, the link below is almost certainly not for your pump(it looks wrong for a perkins like yours), but shows a really nice blow-up of what I think is a very similar arrangement to give you an idea:

-- https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAV-DPA-hy...328818?hash=item4b6607b6f2:g:UVgAAOSwSmJdA7G4

You'll just want to get the number and find the parts blow up, or call a local rebuilder and ask to buy a couple of o-rings.

Or...assume that all of the rubber is getting old and have it rebuilt. Having said that, those throttle o-rings are known to go bad before many other things in those pumps, so may not be a sign of imminent failure, otherwise.
 
I have the same leak at the linkage. Mine has gotten worse so it’s time for repair.

Diesel shop wants 225$ for repair with me removing and replacing pump and no guarantee. Trans Atlantic Diesel has rebuilt pump with exchange for $895.

Is it a big problem removing and replacing pump? I don’t want to get in over my head with timing and all that goes with that. TAD said just remove pump and don’t turn engine over and rebuilt pump should drop right in and then line up timing marks on pump housing, bleed system and you’re good to go.

I think I could handle this if this is all there is to it. I’m open for suggestions. I don’t think I want to try and repair the linkage leaks myself.
The engine is a Perkins na 6.354
 
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Hi Marty,

Swapping the pump is relatively easy.

Look at the face of the bottom of the pump ("pump flange") where it meets the block. You'll see a verticle line scribed across both that serves as an alignment mark. If you don't see the one on the block, it may be painted over -- just draw a new one in line with the one on the pump. If you can't find either one, you'll need to clean the pump flange and/or the block until you can see one in order to find or be able to draw the one on the block. You'll need it for the reinstall.

Loosen the 6 nuts on top going to the injector lines and put them up and out. Loosen the 2 nuts holding the supply and return lines and pull them out. Remove the three nuts on the bolts that hold the pump down. Wiggle and lift the pump out. Remove the gasket from under the pump because you might as well replace it, even if it isn't bad. Some people (not me) find it easier to remove the lines on both sides to get them out of the way. If needed, I just loose the bar that keeps the lines to the injectors tight in position and put it back when done.

Replacement is the reverse of the install with three things to note:
-- There are little rubber ring gaskets that will likely get left in the pump when you remove the supply and return lines (they aren't on the other lines). Don't forget to install these on the tips of lines when you do the reinstall.

- The pump is keyed so you can not physically put it in out of time. You'll see how it works if you look at the gear-line splne at the bottom of the old pump shaft and down into the block after you pull it. Before installing the new pump, you'll want to rotate the shaft on the pump so the spline lines up with the key inside. Just rotate the gear so it lines up. If you want, take a picture of the old pump from the bottom when you remove it, so you can set the new one to the same position rather than eyeballing it otherwise. When you put it in (after putting down a new gasket), you'll need to wiggle the rotation as you put it in until the key lands in exactly the right place and fits in .

-- Once the pump is back in and sitting on the (gasket on the) block, /very lightly/ tighten the three nuts that hold the pump down (including and washers and lock washers). Then, rotate the pump so that the scribed line is again lined up and exactly. Then tighten everything down.

I don't understand what part of your pump is leaking. Can you send a picture where you point at it with your finger or screwdriver or draw an arrow?

There are o-rings on the throttle assembly that available and are easy to remove and replace.
 
Thanks Gregory, the o-rings on the throttle assembly are what’s leaking.
 
EDITED:

Sorry. Somehow mid-thread my brain somehow flipped to the o-ring on the gear arm on the transmission -- which is totally not what we are talking about. Sorry! Sorry!

The rebuild on the throttle arm of the injector pump is a little more complicated. it is doable. But, it is one you'd want to study up before doing. Depending upon the age of the pump, I'd recommend replacing it. It is a 20 minute job to pull a pump and a 30 minute job to install one.

TAD diesel will send you a rebuilt pump you can have them swapped in less than an hour, then send the old one back for credit. It'll cost about $900 in all.
 
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Top cover of injection pump can be removed and throttle shaft seals replaced. No need to remove whole pump. A bit tricky with some springs inside, but do-able. Done quite a few myself. Probably a youtube tutorial out there somewhere.
 
Top cover of injection pump can be removed and throttle shaft seals replaced. No need to remove whole pump. A bit tricky with some springs inside, but do-able. Done quite a few myself. Probably a youtube tutorial out there somewhere.
Thanks Ski, I’ve watched a couple videos on the repair. Those small parts scare me. I’m afraid of dropping something in the pump or loosing something. Fingers don’t work like they used to.
 
Ski is right. Easy repair. Std., not metric, Oring. Do the shut-down shaft at the same time. 1/2hr job for a careful mechanic. Don't remove pump.
 
Well I chickened out on the repair and installed a rebuilt pump. It took me longer than it should’ve but it’s done.
 

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A complete seal & gasket kit is about $30 at parts4engines.com
Before you remove the pump, make sure you know how to time it.
Depending on the model, you may be able to change the linkage seals w/o removing the pump.
 
A complete seal & gasket kit is about $30 at parts4engines.com
Before you remove the pump, make sure you know how to time it.
Depending on the model, you may be able to change the linkage seals w/o removing the pump.
Yes this could’ve been done on a bench for about 10$ or less. After thought I wish I would’ve tried the repair, but this was my first go this . There was no timing involved. The pump has a spline with key , no way to screw up.
 

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