impeller removal

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Slowboat 37

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Aug 29, 2010
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I am replacing the impeller on my Ford 120 that has a Jabsco pump. the problem is that I can't get the old one out. I can get a bight on the vanes with the needle nose pliers but it won't move. Is there a puller of some kind for this or does it just take a lot of working it until it's free. The impeller is not damaged and appears to be intact which seems like a good time to replace it.
 
Though not advised by many and some manufacturers...2 sharp ended screwdrivers can often pry them out...you just have to be careful not to damage the pump body.

You can also drive some screws into the rubber to get a better grip with vice grips and use brute force pulling...but before that try soaking the shaft with penetrating fluid and gently tapping the impeller brass with a punch to loosen it.

While they all can be hard....I haven't had one in a long time fight me too badly...but then mine are usually replaced or at least removed every 2 years.
 
Spray the inside with Pam or another spray cooking oil.
Then have someone hold the stop button down and "bump" the engine over a couple of times while you "tug" on the impeller with a pair of pliers (I use needle nose vice grips).
The impeller should come out after a couple of bumps. They always have for me.
 
I just did this a week ago so it's fresh in my mind.

Early on I realized that pulling with a single needle nose pliers helped to make the job harder. When you pull on just one vane, you can't help but put some directional force against the opposite side of the pump adding more friction and making it more difficult. That's when I found a cheapo needle nose vice grip tool like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-1402L3-Original-Locking/dp/B00004YO5N

Now I lock one vane with that and use a regular needle nose pliers on a vane on the opposite side. That allows the impeller to be pulled more perpendicular to the housing. Adding some non-petroleum lubricant can help (I like Crisco) but I've always been able to just pull it straight out with this two-grip technique.

I'm also always finding uses for that needle nose vice grips.
 
You must be careful when you pry against the pump body....they are bronze and are easily nicked or scratched. if they get too damaged the gasket or o ring may not seal.
 
You must be careful when you pry against the pump body....they are bronze and are easily nicked or scratched. if they get too damaged the gasket or o ring may not seal.

You are absolutely right about that. I did encounter an impeller that was really stuck and used a small piece of hardwood with the pliers to protect the flange.

Good call :thumb:

Larry
 
impeller

Wow, that sure looks easy. Great tool. That Yanmar must be in the shop, the only way I could get that much room is to remove the injector pump. Which is not going to happen.
 
You must be careful when you pry against the pump body....they are bronze and are easily nicked or scratched. if they get too damaged the gasket or o ring may not seal.

My pump casing get removed, exposing the entire impeller and then the impeller is slid of the shaft. It different than the pictures shown so far.
 
IMHO trying to lever a stuck impeller out of it's hole is not worth the risk you run.

This is my solution and I'm sticking to it:Trawler Forum - View Single Post - Stuck Impellers

Mike,

The puller is definitely the best way to go, but there are some engines where accessibility to the pump cover is limited, so the impeller pliers were invented . . . . mother of invention and all that.

05-02-11%20010%20Clearance%20Problem-water%20pump%20and%20starter-3JH2E.jpg


Yanmar has since re-designed the raw water pump mounting to allow access from the front of the engine.

If you are lucky enough to have a pump as accessible as jleonard has, the impeller job is much easier, especially with a proper puller.

Larry
 
Looks like those pliers also use leverage against the pump body...so while I like them...if all the doomsayers comments about using leverage with the tried and most of the time true, ageless use of screwdrivers...the same caution applies.:D

I really like them as they look like the ultimate limited space tool and I'm not afraid of figuring out how to avoid leverage damage if need be.:thumb:
 
No one has mentioned putting a little water proof grease or never-seize on the spline and/or on female part for the impeller prior to installation. It seems to work for us when we change ours on an annual basis. Removal is pretty easy. Just sayin. :)
 
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They look like a regular old pair of bent needle nose pliers that have been modified with a grinder a little heat to me. Ten bucks and ten minutes at a bench grinder and a vice would give the same result.

I have all sorts of modified tools like that for specific jobs.

As far as the leverage thing goes, throw a thin piece of wood or plastic behind them at the fulcrum.
 
They look like a regular old pair of bent needle nose pliers that have been modified with a grinder a little heat to me. Ten bucks and ten minutes at a bench grinder and a vice would give the same result.

I have all sorts of modified tools like that for specific jobs.

As far as the leverage thing goes, throw a thin piece of wood or plastic behind them at the fulcrum.

:thumb::thumb::thumb:..............
 
I have the same bent long nose pliers from Bay Shore Marine - for $40, they have then done and ready to go. Amazing how much easier this tool makes it. On my Yanmars the stringers are in the way, so this tool allowed me to remove the impeller from below. When you do this - PLEASE check the new impeller before you install it. Four direct from the local dealer all had cracked vanes at the hub.
 
............. Adding some non-petroleum lubricant can help (I like Crisco)............

"Astroglide" or a similar personal lubricant works well and comes in a convenient container with a screw on lid. Another option is glycerin which you can find at your local drug store.

The PO of my boat left this tool on the boat:


It is pricy if you have to buy new it but it works very well and won't damage anything.
 
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harbor freight has a pair just like that but the prongs are a little shorter,i have a pair and they work pretty good,but the ones shone look better, but any port in a storm?
 
Before buying an expensive tool to remove a throw away cheap part, try 'bumping' the engine with the starter while the access plate is removed. Your Admiral can sit there with a catcher's mitt to keep it from falling into the bilge.

PM me and I'll send you my address to send half the money I just saved you. :D
 
Al,

Can you be serious?!

I am a bit overdue to replace mine and I have been dreading the thought of having to pry the old one out.
Do you put any lube on the old one before you spin the motor, or just on the new one that goes back in.

Thanks for a great tip.(if it works)
 
I've started buying the impellers with the threaded thru plate. Couple of more bucks for the impeller but makes changing it the cats ass.
 
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So, when does one decide to replace the impeller? When engine temperatures become higher than normal or when the wet exhaust is heading toward "dry"? What?
 
So, when does one decide to replace the impeller? When engine temperatures become higher than normal or when the wet exhaust is heading toward "dry"? What?
What if you have a dry exhaust???? There must be a pump that circulates the coolant thought the keel cooler, hmm lemme go hunt it down.
 
If you have space then 2 screwdrivers will usually get the impeller.Put electrical tape or piece old fuel line on screwdrivers where it makes contact with pump housing.I have seen a fellow use a heat gun on a stubborn one (the brass bushing will expand before the shaft). On older engines usually they were easier to access but newer versions its something like a new car (open hood, close hood ).
 

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