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Old 01-31-2015, 08:28 PM   #21
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We had gone through a large patch of fine sea grass. The strainer was full and the seacock was jammed with grass. It took a good but of time to clear all the blockage. It didn't leave us enough time to get to Bimini before sunset do we came back to Miami.
Interesting. I've only seen that happen at anchor with genset and A/C strainers, never underway to engine strainers. Usually when underway the grass just gets pushed aside and with the inlet for the engine strainer being several feet underwater not much grass finds its way in there. First time for everything I guess. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:36 PM   #22
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Looked at the SpeedSeal website and that and the Speedseal Life look like pretty good products.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:32 AM   #23
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Looked at the SpeedSeal website and that and the Speedseal Life look like pretty good products.
Our boat came with SpeedSeals on the mains and they're a great improvement over the stock impeller covers. Four large knurled thumbscrews instead of the usual 6 or 8 micro screws. Nice O-ring seal vs the flimsy paper gasket. Heavy-duty cover plate that puts strong, even pressure on the O-ring. Makes hanging over the starboard engine to swap impellers a much easier task. All in all, a well designed product IMHO.

(Correction to my original post for any careful readers out there: I did not install these; the PO did. Not sure where that thought came from.)
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
Interesting. I've only seen that happen at anchor with genset and A/C strainers, never underway to engine strainers. Usually when underway the grass just gets pushed aside and with the inlet for the engine strainer being several feet underwater not much grass finds its way in there. First time for everything I guess. Thanks for sharing.
A few months ago my neighbors boat here at the Marina was put back in at Yacht services at to low of a tide, they wait for the tide to come up to start the egines but the mud sand and a little grass had been pushed into one of the intake it destroyed one of the impellers

But like you have never seen it underway but would normally be me to do it first
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:23 AM   #25
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Yeah I could see that happening at that yard. Very shallow there.

On a side note, it's sad seeing what that yard has become knowing its previous history.
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:25 PM   #26
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This thread prompted me to change the impeller on my Starboard CAT engine. My log indicates that it has about 1,000 hours on it after traveling the east coast from CT to FL for the past 2-years. Roughly 250 hours each way including some side trips. I was pleased to find the impeller in virtually new condition. Not a tear, crack, or deformation anywhere.

I replaced it with a new one and will keep the old as a spare. I will not change the port engine impeller as that pump was rebuilt last year. In researching impeller pullers, I found this information on the Seaboard Marine website thought it might be of interest:

Tricks & Tips to extract an Impeller


This is something that should and needs to be done with ALL impellers when you are removing them... Once the cover plate is removed, you need to spray WD-40 (or something similar) inside the housing and into the spline or key & shaft area (liberally) and then BUMP the engine. Then spray it one more time and bump the engine again... TWO times and now that impeller is ready to be removed.

Once you do that, it will "break" the dry bond that always seems to occur between the rubber and the housing and also loosen up the spline (or key). This is essential during any impeller removal and now the impeller will slide out EASILY.

When installing a new impeller, throw out all that crap about lubing - Use any common white lithium grease (or similar grease) and life becomes easy for all� Instant prime too. Be sloppy with it, coat all inside, shaft and impeller and I personally guarantee it with not hurt your impeller if you are planning to finish the job and test the engine within a few days or so... That old wives' tale has got to go - But, if this makes you squeamish, then go ahead and use a synthetic or silicone based grease made specifically for all types of rubber elastomers.

Also, all that crap about which way the vanes have to go is also just that - TOTAL CRAP... It makes ZERO difference as the split second the engine cranks, the blades will flip as needed. But of course, after any impeller replacement, do a test and check for leaks, etc.

Happy Fishin'����Tony
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:04 PM   #27
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I ran a pair of sherwoods on Cummins for years in a low time sandy water situation. Rarely lost a vane but often had seal failures leading to bearing failures and leaks.


The seals just don't seem to like to sit.
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:19 PM   #28
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What happens on the Cummins P17XX Sherwoods is that the carbon/ceramic face seal bonds while sitting. Then when rotated, the face seal stays bonded and the shaft spins inside the seal, where it should not. Then that wears things and it leaks there. On machines that don't sit long, the pumps are fine.

They have upgraded these pumps a few times. I don't know if they actually fixed the issue, but new ones I've installed have not had problems.

When changing the impeller, look at snap ring holding seal washer in place. If snap ring has polished the washer surface, shaft is spinning in seal and seal is not long for this world.
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